Here is the build, I will be doing a stock Tamiya assembly except for some things I might find around the house or in my junk bins. This is a big kit, first thing was to account for all the parts and check against the included parts listing.

Step 1: Suspension.
9 suspension housings to each side of the chassis, 18 total attached with 36 screws, each one is loctited.



2 Torsion bar stays secured to the chassis with 4 screws each and loctited



Next the attachment of 18 suspension arms and the torsion bars, here is the pile, the torsion bars are in the back taped into a stack



Here they are after installing, they go together using a neat mechanical locking system





I also didn't realize that the suspension arms on the KT are oriented differently on each side, unless I have made a big mistake !
Thats it for the first nights work, more to come.

Much fun and a good work !!!

Greetings

Thanks for sharing! The arms are right, same as the Tiger I. When I get these HL projects out of the way I think I want a Tamiya KT too!

moving right along

Next was the addition of the plastic sections on the chassis:



The upper portion of the chassis is screwed on with 7 screws:



Component tray added to bottom of chassis:



I decided to do the wheels next, its the most repetitive task, 18 wheels, 11 parts each for a total of 199 parts. The picture in the instructions wasn't to clear to me as how to best assemble these, so I will show a detail of how I did it.

The parts & finished product:



Here is how I assembled it, put the bushing in the plastic end cap:



CA glue the end cap onto the outer wheel, just put the glue on the plastic part, the bushing is press fitted:



Next put the steel casing facing outwards, it will mate with the shape in the center of the plastic wheel:



Grease the end of the shaft where it contacts the bushings and insert it:



Insert the inner bushing:



Put the second steel casing facing opposite of the first casing and align the screw holes, this should leave 3 pits for the inner plastic wheel to fit its 3 prongs



Secure the inner wheel with the 3 screws and you have one wheel made !

Wow, look at the quality of those parts, you get what you pay for, I would love one of these babys. Problem is I saw the 1/4 and 1/6 scale models at War and Peace last week and i'm smitten - a lot more expensive though..

The comment on the quality is spot on 50Kal, I was going to say exactly that, I want one myself after seeing those parts [X(] Loverly [8D]

Last nite I finished up the wheels and added the rear idler arm/ track tensioning system. The tensioner has received mixed reviews from people, I think it will work fine and the shortcomings I see can be easily over come.



The idler arms are spring loaded within the drums, it equats to about 11mm of deflection. The drums rotate within the clamps to adjust the tensioner, the clamps are secured to the chassis side with 2 screws.

The rear section with the zim applied, minus the exhaust covers:

Looking GOOD!

Hi,

To really enjoy running and reliable operation of your new KT model I recommend these 2 upgrade parts or the build will end up a shelf queen.

Parts:

Gearbox mount brace and the idler spring tensioner system ([email protected]).

By now you now why: Torque will bend and deform the hull at the gearbox mount points and the tiny springs in the Tamiya kit idler cannot handle the job, the tracks will flop around and either break or be tossed off.

John

The latest update: The mantlet is completed. It seems like a solid design, no loose feeling so it should last. 16 parts total for this part.



This version of the KT comes with a aluminium barrel ( and the original plastic one ), the barrel assembly consists of the barrel, muzzel brake and breach that acts as a fixture for the recoil mechanism. 5 parts total here.

Moving right along!!

Dennis

The turret is well detailed, I removed the plastic molded on handles and made my own from Alu wire, you can also see how they cast the turret in a roughened surface much like the original.





Since this will be a 1945 last stand tank, it will have some battle damage, such as this fragment imbedded in the front fender.



heavy mg hits on the rear deck parts, screws missing from a cover



More dmg to come !