ah64

Has anyone used the Metal reinforcements offered for HL tanks? I was thinking how do they attach to the Tank. I know someone has used them I remember seeing it on here some place I did a search but nothing came back on it. here is a picture of what I am talking about.

swathdiver

We make our own. Looks like you'd have to break off all the plastic spindles to use that setup. In order to secure those it looks like you'd have to drill holes into the side of your hull. I think we have a better idea with using 7/8" L brackets on each side and using a piece of steel plate across the floor to join the pieces together. We then secure it all through the floor plate.

lthump

LOL ,, thats not hard to do !!

borealis

First you have to replace the plastic spindles with metal ones (supplied with the kit), or at least drill them and install a passing screw, then with those reinforcements you have a solid plate to tighten the nuts (and they link them all too).
Wish I had them when I reworked my tiger, but it's strong enough even with the screw/nut/big individual washer solution.

ah64

I bought reinforcements in the begining of the week. I should have know there would be drilling and Modding involved. I hope that these are worth it. $20 Didn't put a big of a dent in my wallet as some parts have in the past. I guess I could show how it is done and if it is worth the effort or not when I get them.

borealis

I you plan to run the tiger outside, it is imperative to upgrade the suspensions someway or it's just a matter of time before you break them. The original plastic spindles are not fit for outdoor running.

wackywheelz

Like I've said a few hundred times, I dunno how you guys manage it!

I have owned my HL Tiger 3+ years - never lost a pin, broke a tracklink or any part of my suspension. What I have done is knocked my turret rotation motor off (mounts and all) and stuffed up my mantlet screws (ran into something.... hard, my view was obstructed by my BBQ) but yeah, the tank itself is still going strong 3+ years on. It's an early mold too, without the aftermarket Tamiya-style driver & radio op hatch mounting points.

TIP: jumping is not good for them!!

ah64

I am one of those guys who belives if it is not BROKEN DONT FIX IT. but I have always woundered what the big deal was about a tank with metal on it. like Metal Tracks. But when you upgrade one you have to go down the list. Metal tracks = metal gears = metal sprockets and idlers = extra weight so metal suspension arms = added force on the plastic spindles of the lower hull so again Metal Reinforcements.. This is the first tank with metal anything on it for me....Hope it was all worth it. If anything I will give the ants in my back yard some HELL!!!!

gww

..... and to continure the metal 'slippery slope' , with all that added weight you are possibly overtaxing the motors, maybe need better motors, maybe need new control board, or at least better cooling, maybe need better batteries etc.etc. ........... or in other words, I agree with you, although i always think metal feels cool (in both senses of that word).
Geoff (owner of HL Pz III that is still stock and still running fine - maybe I'm just too scared to change it )

blitzkrieg65

If you go metal, highly recomend adding a larger heat sink to the board if not a computer fan Processor type. Another Highly recomend is go on the fact section of this Tank Forum and scroll down until you see breaking in the motors and breaking in the the gears! For the gears I just used a diferant motor instead of the guys idea to use the power drill but you could use that and I ran them all night covered in gritty hand wash, washed them off with chainsaw grease and ran them all day at work after cleaning them with WD- 40 and another lubricant simular to liquid wrench! Right now the metal gears with out the motor roll like the plastic one and to me that is the goal other wise you have drag and with the extra weight, you just going to get bogged down in the dirt and smoke a board. Oh and break in the motors it fast an easy. I removed them from the Gear Box taped two D -cell batteries together and let them run for about 4 hours, check out the fact site they have photos and other batteries and gritty material you can use! It sound like a lot of work but it was a blast and now ! have some gears that hum! And it is a good time to check the clearance on the gears I had one main gear that need a little spacer so it wouldn't chuck back an forth and tighten the screws would not do it these are cheap and obvioulsly the factory inspectors don't care or can't tell if the axle is 1 or 2 mills differant but you gear box can suffer for it!

The Blitz

YHR

My Tiger is a year old and still runs off the plastic stock suspension. I run metal gears, track and heat sink the ESC Maybe one day I will break something , but so far all is good.

ah64

I dont use the HL boards they get tossed before I use them. But yeah all that extra weight on the motors would have you thinking those would need replaceing next... Yeah I have seen Richard's sticky on FAQ. I broke my gear boxes in with the motors at the same time, I used tamiya polishing compound ( ROUGH ).... My buddy did his with Fast Orange has that "SAND" felling to it worked good but had to make sure they were completly clean before using since the Citris in the Fast Orange can erode metal.... With the fast orange you will have the shinest gearboxes on the forum!!!

swathdiver

My M26A1 weighs 13lbs and I haven't blown a board since putting a fan on the board. Except for detail parts falling off and a couple pieces of metal track, nothing major has broken yet.

blitzkrieg65

AH64 The HL Boards get tossed? Save um up I'll trade you or something for them!

PM me the Blitz