hi everyone this is probably a stupid thing to ask but im new so be nice please.

I've just bought a HL M26 pershing with full metal gearbox and i was just wondering what i should and shouldnt do. Ive got it out of the box and its lovely, and i used a bit of advice and didnt use the bb's it came with and got precision 0.12g ones and was just wondering where to go from there.

Thanks

Welcome, and don't worry, we are all a bunch of nice OLD guys here. Best thing to do is use the search and read all you can about what others have done to a Pershing, it's one of the best HLs I think. I would not try and drive it in tuff areas with the metal tracks until you have added a heat sink or fan to the main board, or expect to fry it and then replace it with a new one. On concrete or in the house you would be safe, but read and learn from others and then open it up and start your own mods. Have fun with it.

By and large I'm very much in the same boat as you. I'm very new here too and discovering things that I never even considered.
This Forum enjoys a wealth of experience as I have discovered.
As to do's and don'ts, apparently gearboxes (transmissions) on these tanks require running in. The precise method to achieve this is still undesclosed,hopefully I'll get replies soon.
In respect of making your tank look more real, then you will find a wealth of painting/weathering advise and even pictures to enable you to achieve this successfully.
I like the look of the Pershing too and will probably end up with one soon.
If you're anything like me then you will enjoy the research as much as the building/upgrading. The're are probably specific reference/modelling books that you can buy to help you with this.
I have a H/L PZIII as well as a Tamiya Sherman. In respect of the PZIII, I haven't used the smoke system (apparently it doesn't last long) or the BB firing feature( I really have no interest with that) and other than gearbox running in I think that's just about it in respect of my help at this time.

thanks for the tips. i was wondering as ive done a bit of plane modeling and made them look battle torn, would it be worth attacking it with a dremel?

I've done a lot of plane modelling, or to be more precise large scale R/C plane modelling.
A dremel is a fine tool if used correctly and in that respect there's nothing better than to have a look at the fullsize example in order to help you. Bovington Tank Museum have a fullsize example of the Pershing. Have a look at that one if you can.
A dremel can give you surface textures on cast metal surfaces. In respect of plate steel surfaces then I think there's a product called Mr Surfacer that will probably do the job...Our American friends will certainly help us with information/supply of this product.

Hope this helps,

Gigantohawk

I run in the gearboxes using mechanics hand cleaner with pumice in it. Very abrasive, and it makes short work of the process. I run them for about 30 minutes in each direction using an old train transformer I had laying around. You well notice a difference as they will really free wheel once they have been broke in. This hand cleaner is easy to wash off under the tap.

I also add washers to tighten up the side play that these heng long gearboxes have. I then grease up the whole assembly and build enclosures out of an aluminum pop can to enclose them.

Do not drive your tank on a frozen lake with very thin ice and then find your tank unresponsive.

lol a non S&S pershing will float :P

I think if you did it would be the time to get out the old fishing pole with a big trebble hook and see how good you are at snagging a tank and dragging it back to shore. LOL

To break in my metal gear boxes I mixed up a mixture of toothpaste and comet sink cleaner works great and washes away under hot water then just lube the gears and oil the bushings

Lol i was flying a plane over a quarry once and the engine cut out, 600 quid in the drink, litrally.

Ok, I have a stupid question. Am I right in saying that you have to disconnect and remove the gear box from the tank before breaking it in with toothpaste or whatever?

I would. If you don't you'll have one hell of a mess to clean up inside the tank.



Greg

DEFINITELY. because after you break them in, you need to clean them thoroughly, otherwise the leftover grit could cause unwanted wear to bushings etc

Yes I removed the gearboxes from the tank noteing where each wire went. I screwed the gearbox to a piece of wood connected a power source to the motor applied the compound, and run it in one direction then reversed the direction. When finished I removed the motor from the gearboxes and thoroughly washed the gearboxes with very hot water. I dried the gear boxes then spun it and it spun nice and free for a cpl seconds. then I put some white litium grease on the gears, just enough to give a thin film, and then oiled the bushings

Go to RCU's older posts and check page 7, "Authenticating an M-26 Pershing." I have hands-on time with Pershings and M-46's and have (on request) posted some things to change to make the tank look like an M-26. You can also modify the Pershing to 3 additional models without a great deal of work.