Styrene sheet mods
#1
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From: NSW, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys
which are the best adhesives to use when attaching styrene mods to HL tank hulls? (i.e. strongest, most durable, permamnent)
thanks
which are the best adhesives to use when attaching styrene mods to HL tank hulls? (i.e. strongest, most durable, permamnent)
thanks
#2
Superglue does good, either the liquid or gel. I made a number of conversions with the upper section being 75% styrene and everything's holding tight.
Zap a Gap from hobby stores is designed for sheet styrene and plastic models. Keep some debonder handy
Zap a Gap from hobby stores is designed for sheet styrene and plastic models. Keep some debonder handy
#3
ORIGINAL: Fury25
Hi guys
which are the best adhesives to use when attaching styrene mods to HL tank hulls? (i.e. strongest, most durable, permamnent)
thanks
Hi guys
which are the best adhesives to use when attaching styrene mods to HL tank hulls? (i.e. strongest, most durable, permamnent)
thanks
I believe HL is not styrene plastic but closer to ABS. It would be either an epoxy or a high strength CA glue that I would use. Test it first before you make the commitment on the choice of adhesive.
#5
Tamiya extra thin bonded my sheet plastic to the HL hull plastic with no issues. The HL hulls are a softer styrene probably an ABS blend but it responds well to liquid cements.
#6

I have been using super glue on my HL tanks and it seems to be strong and fast.I use a kicker to set the glue on something I don't want to hold onto while the glue normally sets,how-ever if using a kicker I don't think the bond is as strong.I don't think a lot of epoxy's will stick to plastic,but there may be some kind's that do.?? CA and super glue is pretty much the same thing isn't it.???
wall-mart and the dollar stores if you have them in your are is a good place to get good buys on super glue.They sell a six-pack for
$1.00 dollar,and I have found other places that sell them for around the same price on sale.Like the pictures below on sale for a dollar a pack---beats the CA price tags--- BIGMIG

wall-mart and the dollar stores if you have them in your are is a good place to get good buys on super glue.They sell a six-pack for
$1.00 dollar,and I have found other places that sell them for around the same price on sale.Like the pictures below on sale for a dollar a pack---beats the CA price tags--- BIGMIG


#7
Epoxy doesn't "weld" the items together but it does stick fairly well. I use the CA to "tack" the items together then use a fast setting epoxy. It does help to rough or sand the area where the glue it to be applied and I even drill holes into the bonding area (if thick enough) to help.
#9
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I have to agree with edoubleaz:
For styrenes and ABS, Tenax and its major component MEK, are BEST, as they partially dissolve the surfaces to 'weld' the contact point. I've had normal tube glues and epoxies fail on ABS and older styrene, and MEK (bought as Model Builder Supply (MBS) APSC-1) did the job wonderfully.
And that liquid stuff others sell (at rediculous prices) with the paint brush applicators (like Testors) is mostly MEK too. Read the label.
You want to attach metal to plastic? Sure, CA or epoxy is appropriate, but for a styrene to styrene or ABS bond, MEK is the best. Ask ANY plastic's shop. They sell MEK in anything from 100ml on up. I can't get a litre as cheap as edouble can, but its MUCH cheaper than buying the small bottles in the hobby shop.
MEK is ALSO an Epoxy & CA (CyanoAcrylate aka superglue) debonder! I've used it to debond CA and JB Weld, and recommend it over an expensive bottle of CA-debonder.
So buy some, and get a less-expensive double-use product.
PS: Want a CA kicker for hidden areas? Baking soda. Modellers have been using it for decanes to reinforce thin styrene (like windshield pillars) and other thin areas. Thin layer of CA, then sprinkle with the soda. I use an old denture powder bottle, puffs it out nicely! (you can get similar small bottles in the plastics shop!)
For styrenes and ABS, Tenax and its major component MEK, are BEST, as they partially dissolve the surfaces to 'weld' the contact point. I've had normal tube glues and epoxies fail on ABS and older styrene, and MEK (bought as Model Builder Supply (MBS) APSC-1) did the job wonderfully.
And that liquid stuff others sell (at rediculous prices) with the paint brush applicators (like Testors) is mostly MEK too. Read the label.
You want to attach metal to plastic? Sure, CA or epoxy is appropriate, but for a styrene to styrene or ABS bond, MEK is the best. Ask ANY plastic's shop. They sell MEK in anything from 100ml on up. I can't get a litre as cheap as edouble can, but its MUCH cheaper than buying the small bottles in the hobby shop.
MEK is ALSO an Epoxy & CA (CyanoAcrylate aka superglue) debonder! I've used it to debond CA and JB Weld, and recommend it over an expensive bottle of CA-debonder.
So buy some, and get a less-expensive double-use product.
PS: Want a CA kicker for hidden areas? Baking soda. Modellers have been using it for decanes to reinforce thin styrene (like windshield pillars) and other thin areas. Thin layer of CA, then sprinkle with the soda. I use an old denture powder bottle, puffs it out nicely! (you can get similar small bottles in the plastics shop!)
#10
ORIGINAL: wackywheelz
CA (Cyanoacrylate) is super glue
CA (Cyanoacrylate) is super glue
Thanks Mr. Obvious! You're a genius!
#11
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I wonder what that stuff plumbers use to stick plastic PVC pipe together would do to Heng long Plastic. Ive used this stuff a little around the house when I was running some plumbing on the basement. Man it glues that pipe together solid in seconds!!!!. I should try it on a tank and see how well it sticks.
#12
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From: Launceston, AUSTRALIA
People often think theyre two different things, because "super glue" is cheap and found everywhere, whilst the dearer blends (Zap etc) are pushed as CA.
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From: Ottawa,
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YHR:
Read the label, if its got Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) its good to go. It'll even stick lexan into the hull for cross-supports!
Is it that tin of medium-dark grey stuff with the wadding-brush attached to the lid? Thats good, is what I used on my German ABS kits, and works a treat. Its also MUCH cheaper and easier to use than the recommended 'Stabilit Express' goo+powder stuff.
To apply it, I sucked some up into a syringe, and then applied. Squirted any un-used back into the tin with no harm done (been using the same tin for a year now) But the best thing (and neatest) - I opened the syringe, and ~pealed~ the dried grey stuff off a day later, so I could re-use the syringe for its next application! Been using the same syringe too!
Read the label, if its got Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) its good to go. It'll even stick lexan into the hull for cross-supports!
Is it that tin of medium-dark grey stuff with the wadding-brush attached to the lid? Thats good, is what I used on my German ABS kits, and works a treat. Its also MUCH cheaper and easier to use than the recommended 'Stabilit Express' goo+powder stuff.
To apply it, I sucked some up into a syringe, and then applied. Squirted any un-used back into the tin with no harm done (been using the same tin for a year now) But the best thing (and neatest) - I opened the syringe, and ~pealed~ the dried grey stuff off a day later, so I could re-use the syringe for its next application! Been using the same syringe too!
#14
I think everyone has their tried and true way of bonding certain materials together ... in the end they all get the job done.
I was just turned onto the foam compatable CA stuff by the fly boys in the local hobby store, and it works! And it comes in different strengths too. For resins and ABS, the 5 minute epoxy mix has has always been my favorite adhesive. Just tack a few places to 'set' the items with the CA and spray 'kicker' together and then apply the epoxy and it's magic.

I was just turned onto the foam compatable CA stuff by the fly boys in the local hobby store, and it works! And it comes in different strengths too. For resins and ABS, the 5 minute epoxy mix has has always been my favorite adhesive. Just tack a few places to 'set' the items with the CA and spray 'kicker' together and then apply the epoxy and it's magic.

#15
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ORIGINAL: WhiteWolf McBride
YHR:
Read the label, if its got Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) its good to go. It'll even stick lexan into the hull for cross-supports!
Is it that tin of medium-dark grey stuff with the wadding-brush attached to the lid? Thats good, is what I used on my German ABS kits, and works a treat. Its also MUCH cheaper and easier to use than the recommended 'Stabilit Express' goo+powder stuff.
To apply it, I sucked some up into a syringe, and then applied. Squirted any un-used back into the tin with no harm done (been using the same tin for a year now) But the best thing (and neatest) - I opened the syringe, and ~pealed~ the dried grey stuff off a day later, so I could re-use the syringe for its next application! Been using the same syringe too!
YHR:
Read the label, if its got Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) its good to go. It'll even stick lexan into the hull for cross-supports!
Is it that tin of medium-dark grey stuff with the wadding-brush attached to the lid? Thats good, is what I used on my German ABS kits, and works a treat. Its also MUCH cheaper and easier to use than the recommended 'Stabilit Express' goo+powder stuff.
To apply it, I sucked some up into a syringe, and then applied. Squirted any un-used back into the tin with no harm done (been using the same tin for a year now) But the best thing (and neatest) - I opened the syringe, and ~pealed~ the dried grey stuff off a day later, so I could re-use the syringe for its next application! Been using the same syringe too!
Panther F
I would say 5 minute epoxy is my most used adhesive as well.




