ive noticed alot of people have removed the sideskirts from there pershing. is this alot of work to do? ive been wanting to do it but not sure on how well i can do it. i cant see how people can get the edges soo nice and smooth this is why im worried about doing it. and also whats the best tools to use?

see pic for the line i mean!

Everone has their own best methods, but I have always used a Dremmel with a steel sawblade. Follow up with a sandwheel to even it up. The HL and Tamiya Pershing is a Korean War (late production) model so you may want to fold up the 2 center sand skirts for MG ammo stowage and discard the front and rear sections. they were hinge mounted and could be folded up for track work. The skirts were a real pain in the butt and most were simply removed and tossed. The Marines came up with the idea of using them to carry extra MG ammo boxes. (Direly needed facing thousands of Chinese in mass charges.) I have included a coupleshots plus a local M-46 with original sand skirts to show the bolt positions.(same chassis) When the skirts are off, be sure to add the bolt holes. If you leave them on, at least "weld" a bar or cables to hold the ammo boxes in place on the fenders where HL put them. Some Pershings in WW II left the skirts on, but they never entered the war until April 1945, only 6 months before the end. Between WW II and korea, crews had time to learn of the disadvantages of the skirts and once they left the "pristine" training environment of stateside, off they came.

Hey Pattoncommander,

That is the first time I've notice that, where did you get the hinges? I have two Pershings and one i will definately cut off the side shields, but for the other this might be a cool mod and still give it the ability to drop down the sides for a different look!

I was just going to use the Dremil cutting wheel and then use a sanding roller, but a lot of guys have the saw, never used it I might have to make a Home Depot run and give it a try?


The Blitz

i used a cut-off plier to chop mine down. now i just need to take the dremel and smooth it out.

Dremmel does not make the saw blades....Young kid cut his finger off a while back and parents sued Dremmel, so they cut the product. (Where were the parents at that time?)

have to get them at MicroMark.com or tel 1 800 225-1066 items; miniature saw blades
should get# 14134 3/4 " dia 60 teeth and #14133 3/4 " dia 36 teeth and the #14138 1/8 " shank mandrel (1 per blade) . They have a larger selection of sizes and teeth, but these are the ones I use and they do everything. That's a very good source for about anything you could possibly need for modelling.

The hinges came designed that way on M-26 and many others. Hinges are welded onto the fender and 9/16" bolts locked tham in place. If you want an on-off thing, you're going to have to design some way of sticking them on and taking them off. As I recall, the front and rear sections had 2 hinges and 4 bolts to hold them. They dismounted like a door hinge....just slide an inch or two and pull off.
On a plastic, operating model, that's going to be tricky, unless you get some model RR hinges and I don't even want to think about or screws that size. [:'(].

Bill

ok thanks patton thats a help good job i still have them blades laying around then as did not know thay stoped selling them [>:] yea where were the parents [X(] i like the amobox holders nice job there patton i am also thinking of cutting away the front fenders so does anyone know the measurements of where to cut? i know u cut along the line thats allready there but just i need to know how far back i should cut when cuting down towards the front? ive noticed most people have just cut any where? but if some one has the correct place where to cut that would be a real help

B.T.M.

Hope the abbreviation is ok...

You could also use the cotton-thread cuttng method, or one of the hobby 'razor saws' (really thin with a back edge) As to where to cut, cut 'em up/down, with thread held flat against the inside of the sand shield. Thats where the joint was.

I also have a few of the Dremel saw blades left, two of the smaller ones and one larger, but both are the thicker mandrel-mount, not the thinner ones that were firmly attached to the shaft. The razor-thin one (fixed mount) I had snagged in an cut and wrinkled, and was rendered unusable.

Check some store cases, I've found discontinued pieces in some cases. eBay is also a source... but quality varies.

I just want to state this to the thread starter, I thinkthe tank inteh pic is that of a tamiya pershing, which is actually removale to start with.

Planedev:

More to the point. thats how Tamiya mounts theirs as well - the shields butt up to the fender, and bolt to brackets that are attached to the fender. I could mount mine, and show a thread in place as it should be used, if Britishtankman wants that.

Britishtankman: you want me to show ya how to hold the thread or blade when ya cut, just ask, and I'll put a pic up here.

I am gonna use the "cut off" discs i have in my kit. worked on the 1/2 track well. just dont flex them...

Ah yes...

The ever-useful cutoffs. Be SURE to wear eye protection with those, because when THOSE let go, they sent small stone-like fragments ~everywhere~. Got a few nicks on my safety's from them.

I've cut almost everything with those... steel chain links and bicycle parts, tempered 6061-T6 aluminum, ceramic... am waiting a bit before I try glass though. And mistakenly slipped and cut flesh a few times too. *wince*

Planedev yes that is a tamiya i was just showing the line in question. i will be useing the blades to cut. yes whitewolf any info will be a help

britishtankman

The razor saw may work the best, it's very thin and will cut fast, this is a pic of the one I have, picked it up at my LHS for about 10.00 USD and have found many uses for it. I have used the thread cutting for many hatches and that workes the best for them it will take a long time to cut the sideskirts with thread but can be done.

HDbeast: where did you find the fender supports like in the middle pic of your last post?

I made them, here are some other pis of them, there is a site I can try and find again if you would like that has great close up pics of the Pershing, it is what I used for my reference.

Hey hdbeast, I have been wanting to cut my Peshing hatch also, and I have cut a few hatches with the cutting wheel, it takes a lot out in certain spots! What does LHS stand for? I want to pick up one of those razor saws, and give it a try!

The Blitz

LHS=Local Hobby Shop

To cut your hatch I would use the sewing thread, it is slow and will keep breaking, but if you take your time it's accurate and a very thin cut. I will if possible drill out the hinge holes first then cut the hatches

Gary

this piccie might help with how much to take off the side at the front

Thanks,

hdbeast, duh LHS

The Blitz

ok started to cut em off looking ok just need some more tidying up then should be done... mite just leave the fenders on there not sure yet tho.

looks good much better off IMHO
heres a piccie of mine

Britishtankman:

Very neatly done. I hope i can be as neat if I get one of the HL Pershing units..

okay. I like how it is now, but take a bit off the front *like to next line* and that would look really bad @$$

Those look awfully familiar Hdbeast!

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6413851/anchors_6413851/mpage_1/key_panzerkampfwagen/anchor/tm.htm#6413851]My M26A1 Build[/link]

The M26 was my first detailing project. I used a Harbor Freight $7 rotary tool to cut the fenders off. The non-adjustable speed melted the plastic and eventually destroyed the rotary tool itself! The side fender mounting holes were drilled with this too. Afterwards I learned that a pin vise would have been much better to use. I also installed the metal tie downs pretty much in the same places as the real tank, each side is NOT the same. The fender supports are not like those used on the tanks at the time. They were beyond my modeling skills at the time. They mimmick the Littlefield M26A1's using turnbuckles instead.

Enjoy the build!