I just received my new replacement boards for the HL Panzer III. The factory board looks different than the RX13 that I received. I am not sure where to solder the wires on the new board. Also, the new board has an aluminum shield on it with some screws in it. What is this for?

Sorry for the noob questions, but I couldn't find a walkthrough when I did a search. []

Seems like your original board was the newer 14 if you have a smoke and sound tank. There are tutorials all over the web, but use "Tiger" for one of the keywords.

Anyhow, here's a photo of where the wires go. Make sure you do not run a third wire from the on/off switch to the receiver.

james, what is the deal with the 3rd wire from on/off switch to the receiver board..? got my new tiger open at the mo and i've got that wire on there..? have heard that you don't have to use it but whats it for and should i remove it..?

speedpro-that aluminum sheild with screws in is a heatsink to take heat away from components on board but general consensus is its rubbish..! don't think its big enough plus its underneath..lotta people turn the board over but i'm in the process right now of making an add-on heatsink out of some scrap aluminum to stick onto existing heatsink to carry heat AWAY from board, you might wanna add a small pc fan also to blow across board..
rgds stuart

It says rx13 on the board, but it is slightly different than the picture posted above. When you said not to attach the third wire to the board, I am assuming you mean not to connect up +ve from the picture. Is this correct?

Just dont want to fry my new board. Thanks!

Ok, I think I understand.

There are three wires on the on/off switch. Two are red and one is black. The third wire that everyone references is the black wire? right? Since one of the red wires actually connects the battery to the receiver board for power at +ve, and the other black wire from the battery connects at -ve.

You need the wires from the switch to the 1st picture. The second picture doesn't show where the factory runs a wire from the switch to this receiver board, not the big main board.

The purpose of the wire is to discharge static electricity in the event the antenna hits something electrically charged. All I know is that every time I hooked up that wire, that big gray resistor on the big main board got really hot and started smoking. I have a bag full of blown boards. Since I left that off after taking the advice of others, no more blow ups. I guess I might be at risk for blowing the board if the antenna touches the wrong thing, but at least I get to drive the tank!

Now I am totally confused. The main board has 4 wires plugged into it from the 2 motors that I soldered on to R+ve, R-ve, L+ve, and L-ve. Now there are three wires attached to the old main board. I don't understand where they should go based on the picture since it only has 6 wires attached to it and the factory main board has 7 wires attached to it. Also, my receiver board only has an antennae wire attached to it. I'll try to take a picture and post it.

[img]board4[/img]

Is this what you have? This is the newer board. I've never had one but you can see how to convert from here. The little board has only one wire, the antenna is good! Don't worry about what I said earlier.

He had the RX14 (no alum heatsink, plugs for everything) and now he has the RX13 (alum heatsink).

Basically you need to snip your plugs off for the motors, solder them to the right places. I'd help but all my S&S boards are RX14 - seems US/Canada (when ordering spare boards from MATO) get RX13's whereas the rest of the world (that ship from China) usually get RX14 (the newer, better board)

On the Rx13 boards you DON'T connect the white wire from the switch to the smaller board. This can be removed. The only soldering you do on the smaller of the two boards is connect the aerial. Link the two board with the umbilical lead.
On the power switch, you connect the red wire to the main board and the black wire direct to the black wire for the main battery connector.
If you want to make the mg flash you connect the thin red and black wires from the LED to the turret connection socket (red to the empty solder point alongside the existing white wire, leave a space then the black to the empty outermost solder point
You've already soldered the motor wires onto the board, so all that should be left to do is plug the smoker into DP2 and the speaker into DP1

Like guys keep saying on here,don't just go by wire color.The tiger I opened up yesterday is just the oposet of your's above,mine had two black and one red wires on the switch.Some of them had a white,red and black.Same apply's to some of the motors,I have found several different colored wires use on the gun motors.All the motors can be wired backwards with no problems "except"
"THE GUN FIRE MOTOR"---Wire this one backwards and you got problems--- BIGMIG