Panzer 3 L progress
#1
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From: Stevensville,
ON, CANADA
Well I got my L/60 barrel and grill covers this morning. They are now installed and so I was able to do some camo work.


Still more painting to do on the tracks (mind you I am going to upgrade to metal soon...so why do I bother???)
And I would like to finish it with the Austrian coat of arms for the 2nd Panzer division.


Still more painting to do on the tracks (mind you I am going to upgrade to metal soon...so why do I bother???)
And I would like to finish it with the Austrian coat of arms for the 2nd Panzer division.
#2
Looking great so far!
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From: Cardiff,
ON, CANADA
well I use thinned black or very dark brown enamel paint and pencil lead ground up real fine and rubbed on the high spots. Sometimes I use ground up pastell chalk as well
#8
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From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Nice job Tim, I can't wait to see it finished. I may just have to copy that for my Panzer III. I hope you don't mind if I do?
Can that barrel be made to shoot bb's or is the tip small? Where are you buying your accessories?
Can that barrel be made to shoot bb's or is the tip small? Where are you buying your accessories?
#9
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From: Stevensville,
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Harold, thanks. The only washes I have done are on miniature soldiers. Perhaps someone will post a tutorial on how to weather tanks.
Slotcarrod, I bought the barrel and photo etched grill covers (these are sweet!) off of Blueslateman on Ebay. The Airsoft system has been removed and the barrel is too small to fire BBs. I use a IR battle system (saves the paint job
)
Slotcarrod, I bought the barrel and photo etched grill covers (these are sweet!) off of Blueslateman on Ebay. The Airsoft system has been removed and the barrel is too small to fire BBs. I use a IR battle system (saves the paint job
)
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From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Fireman Tim
Harold, thanks. The only washes I have done are on miniature soldiers. Perhaps someone will post a tutorial on how to weather tanks.
Slotcarrod, I bought the barrel and photo etched grill covers (these are sweet!) off of Blueslateman on Ebay. The Airsoft system has been removed and the barrel is too small to fire BBs. I use a IR battle system (saves the paint job
)
Harold, thanks. The only washes I have done are on miniature soldiers. Perhaps someone will post a tutorial on how to weather tanks.
Slotcarrod, I bought the barrel and photo etched grill covers (these are sweet!) off of Blueslateman on Ebay. The Airsoft system has been removed and the barrel is too small to fire BBs. I use a IR battle system (saves the paint job
)
#12
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From: Stevensville,
ON, CANADA
John,
I got the DBC installed (which controlls momentum, weight class and blocks recoil and super spin). The DBU that sticks out of the turret is currently being assembled, and I have yet to install the IR LED in the barrel.
Slotcarrod,
I think his prices are fair and he has a good rep.
I got the DBC installed (which controlls momentum, weight class and blocks recoil and super spin). The DBU that sticks out of the turret is currently being assembled, and I have yet to install the IR LED in the barrel.
Slotcarrod,
I think his prices are fair and he has a good rep.
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From: HuddersfieldWest Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Nice work Fireman Tim...Nice Schurzen...Nice Air intake Grills. Where did you get those from ?. Also what airbrush are you using and what paints/thinning ratios etc.
Best Regards.
Gigantohawk
Best Regards.
Gigantohawk
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From: Stevensville,
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gigantohawk.
-I bought the grill covers and barrel from Blueslateman on Ebay. Cost a bit, but I think it is worth it.
-I don't know the make of the airbrush. bought it for $8 at a tool place, but it works great.
-I use Tamiya paints with a 2:1 paint to thinner ratio.
Today I tried to install the IR emitter, but the barrel diameter is too small, so I had to install it in the mantle. I used a tube from a pen, but I was only able to recess the led by 6mm into the tube. [:@]
I also began work on the DBU apple. I'll post some pics soon.
-I bought the grill covers and barrel from Blueslateman on Ebay. Cost a bit, but I think it is worth it.
-I don't know the make of the airbrush. bought it for $8 at a tool place, but it works great.
-I use Tamiya paints with a 2:1 paint to thinner ratio.
Today I tried to install the IR emitter, but the barrel diameter is too small, so I had to install it in the mantle. I used a tube from a pen, but I was only able to recess the led by 6mm into the tube. [:@]
I also began work on the DBU apple. I'll post some pics soon.
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From: HuddersfieldWest Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
F T ...8$ !!!!. It does work great...Do you use a compressor or air can...I need to buy an airbrush and I'm getting a bit confused what to buy...Swathdiver recommended a "Tamiya Spray works " airbrush with compressor...Have you ever used one of those ?.
Gigantohawk
Gigantohawk
#17
Great Job Tim,
i'm also repainting a Pz 3. I've looked for a good painting guide and after many hours of reading & surfing i found a thread on this site, sorry but cant remember the posting persons name, may have been Panzerwest.
The advice was simple and, i think, very effective.
I've tried this and the pics show the results. I'm not done yet and would like advice myself on how to finish it, i.e varnish etc
I used a very cheap £15 humbrol airbrush and dusted soot over dry brushed Vallejo silver.
Paul
i'm also repainting a Pz 3. I've looked for a good painting guide and after many hours of reading & surfing i found a thread on this site, sorry but cant remember the posting persons name, may have been Panzerwest.
The advice was simple and, i think, very effective.
I use a very simple method. First I paint the entire tank with a factory looking finish. I dullcoat this to protect it. Ususally a couple of good coats.
For weathering I use arylic paint, thinned with water. Use a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent. This cuts the surface tension of the water so it flows on better without water droplets forming. Now you have to experiment with how thin you want this wash. Too thin is better then not thin enough. You can always apply a second or third wash to get the desired effect you are looking for.
With a wide soft brush you just paint the wash on very liberally. You want lots of wash on in a hurry. I have one of those cheap battery powered tooth brushes that I go over the tank with while the wash is still wet. This helps to eliminate any brush strokes. For faded paint use a buff color or light grey wash. Allow this to dry, before the next application. Keep adding washes until you have the shade you are looking for. After the right shade has been achieved, now mix up a thinned black wash. This will pop out the molded in details. Just like the first wash use a large soft brush to try and wash the tank down as quickly as possible. Let dry, and then do it again if required. Again too little is better then too much. Far easier to do another wash then to remove too much. The nice thing about this method is, it can be redone. If you don't like the results, spray the tank with windex, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe the tank down. The wash will be stripped right down to the dullcoat and you will be looking at a factory finish again.
Once you have the right look, then you just go around and highlight some raised surfaces with a light grey of silver, by dry brushing. Dry brushing is the technique of dabbing a small amout of paint on a stiff brush. Brush out the dabbed paint on a piece of paper until until very little comes off the brush. You then move to the model and brush against the raised surface details, like bolt heads, rivets, etc. Womens make up can also be used for this. There are many shades of metalizied eye liner that work great for this.
By this point you will have a pretty nice weathered tank. Now you move to the super weathering stage. This is where you pick an area and do something local and special. On my Sherman I choose to model the effect of spilled fuel. Over time this would fade and some times strip the paint. You do as much of this super weathering as you want. Just doing a couple of areas will be enough for people to notice, and really set your tank off from others.
In my opinion don't over do the weathering . I can't stress enough the importance of using a thin wash applied multiple times over just applying a heavy wash.
For weathering I use arylic paint, thinned with water. Use a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent. This cuts the surface tension of the water so it flows on better without water droplets forming. Now you have to experiment with how thin you want this wash. Too thin is better then not thin enough. You can always apply a second or third wash to get the desired effect you are looking for.
With a wide soft brush you just paint the wash on very liberally. You want lots of wash on in a hurry. I have one of those cheap battery powered tooth brushes that I go over the tank with while the wash is still wet. This helps to eliminate any brush strokes. For faded paint use a buff color or light grey wash. Allow this to dry, before the next application. Keep adding washes until you have the shade you are looking for. After the right shade has been achieved, now mix up a thinned black wash. This will pop out the molded in details. Just like the first wash use a large soft brush to try and wash the tank down as quickly as possible. Let dry, and then do it again if required. Again too little is better then too much. Far easier to do another wash then to remove too much. The nice thing about this method is, it can be redone. If you don't like the results, spray the tank with windex, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe the tank down. The wash will be stripped right down to the dullcoat and you will be looking at a factory finish again.
Once you have the right look, then you just go around and highlight some raised surfaces with a light grey of silver, by dry brushing. Dry brushing is the technique of dabbing a small amout of paint on a stiff brush. Brush out the dabbed paint on a piece of paper until until very little comes off the brush. You then move to the model and brush against the raised surface details, like bolt heads, rivets, etc. Womens make up can also be used for this. There are many shades of metalizied eye liner that work great for this.
By this point you will have a pretty nice weathered tank. Now you move to the super weathering stage. This is where you pick an area and do something local and special. On my Sherman I choose to model the effect of spilled fuel. Over time this would fade and some times strip the paint. You do as much of this super weathering as you want. Just doing a couple of areas will be enough for people to notice, and really set your tank off from others.
In my opinion don't over do the weathering . I can't stress enough the importance of using a thin wash applied multiple times over just applying a heavy wash.
I used a very cheap £15 humbrol airbrush and dusted soot over dry brushed Vallejo silver.
Paul
#18
For weathering you can pickup Earth tone pastels at any craft or hobby store, Tamiya also makes a pastel based weathering kit. I use the pastels right on the tank, then use a wide dry brush to push it around and diffuse the powder, then I spray a Dull/matt coat of clear. Your PZ III looks great, maybe a little too much rust on the tracks
#20
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From: Stevensville,
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Here are some pics of the DBU Apple I made.
It was made from a clear plastic container that held crazy glue. I used a dremel to cut it down to size and cut slits for the LEDs. I taped off squares over the IR receivers, then gave it a couple coats of paint.

I then added 2 baffles made from plastic card for the top and bottom, and 2 made from card stock for the interior baffles (I should have used thin plastic but I had none) with spacers inbetween. All were painted before assembly.

Now I just have to connect it to the DBC and pray that it works.
It was made from a clear plastic container that held crazy glue. I used a dremel to cut it down to size and cut slits for the LEDs. I taped off squares over the IR receivers, then gave it a couple coats of paint.

I then added 2 baffles made from plastic card for the top and bottom, and 2 made from card stock for the interior baffles (I should have used thin plastic but I had none) with spacers inbetween. All were painted before assembly.

Now I just have to connect it to the DBC and pray that it works.
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From: Brea, CA
Good looking Pz.
Visit here for some great paint/weathering tips: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/ki...hoto_frame.htm
And here for chalk/MIG pigment tips: http://www.internethobbies.com/seofpi.html
Visit here for some great paint/weathering tips: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/ki...hoto_frame.htm
And here for chalk/MIG pigment tips: http://www.internethobbies.com/seofpi.html
#24
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From: Stevensville,
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where can I buy them blast shieds that are mounted on the turret??
[link]http://www.dougstigerparts.com/products.htm[/link]
#25
Thank you very much......now all I need is money....and time.
I greatly appreciate it.
BTW, You built a very nice looking tank.......high five.
I greatly appreciate it.
BTW, You built a very nice looking tank.......high five.




