Would a 22 ml white and 22 ml black oil paint tubes to make gray be enough to paint my tiger?

You are much better off with a can of Testor's Panzer Grey and then use the oil paints to wheather the tank. It would take a weak for the Oil Paint to dry.

Plus, it depends on how much pre-assembly painting you do and the type/brand of primer that's being used.

I used 2 bottles of tamiya german gray for my tiger. I still have a little left. Each bottle is 3oz. And when mixing thinner for airbrushing it was enough. Hope this helps.

Well, it is already gray. So my attempt is not to color it per say but to give it some texture. Right now the paint job is so perfectly flat and flawless, it looks like a toy. I was hoping to follow a fellow tankers advice and stubble brush the oils on.

Well if thats the case then a tube of each color would be more than enough but I'm not sure the oil will stick to the unfinished plastic really well. Usually weathering with oil is done on an acyrillic base. You may want to paint the tank before using oils. As already stated above oil paints do take along time to dry also, sometimes weeks. After you use the oils you'll want to seal it with something like testor's dullcote or similiar. Otherwise your oils will smear if you touch it for quite sometime after you apply it. But if you are going to use oils you may also want to get some burnt sienna and give it an oil wash too. This will also help get rid of the toy like appearance and bring out the molded on details. You can use mineral spirits and mix in some burnt sienna with a touch of black til it looks something like coffee, it should be mostly mineral spirits and not alot of paint. Then apply it evenly over everything and then wipe it down. You know the mixture is good when you touch the brush to the surface and it flows along lines and crevices depositing pigment along the way. As long as you dont wipe to hard it shouldn't remove your acyrillic base coat. And you can go back with a q-tip dipped in mineral spirits to remove excess coloring on open flat spots to vary the coloration. Again don't press to hard or you'll remove the base coat. This takes some practice to get right and everybody has there own way of doing it that works best for them so you should try it on something else like a cheap plastic model if possible before attempting it on your tank. But once you get it down it will look good. Once your done you can give it a light coat of testors dullcote. This will washout some of the weathering so if it comes out lighter than desired you can always go back and do it again. Hope this helps

My 2 cents. I recommend a different technique for 1/16 armor vs 1/35 armor.

Visit here for 2 great tutorials on approaching 1/16 scale AFVs paint and weathering:

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/ki...hoto_frame.htm

and

http://www.internethobbies.com/seofpi.html

An oil wash at 1/35 scale works for AFVs, but really, not a useful approach at 1/16 scale, to big an area to cover well and the wash results are kinda disappointing at 1/16 scale.

I recommend you use Tamiya acrylic paint and or artist acrylic paint, and or Testor's Lacquer or Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer sealed with Testor's Lacquer Dullcote.

For weathering study MIG Production Pigments, Tamiya Weathering Kits, PrismaColor Artist Chalk and pencil lead techniques.

Here are my models using a dry brush wash using both artist acrylic paint and Tamiya acrylic paint atop airbrushed Tamiya arcylic paint for the "Gritty" Jadgpanther.

The newer in the field Panther G uses Testor's Lacquer rattle can paint and is sealed with Tesor's Dullcote. The desert worn Kubel uses a similar method as the Panther, but way more weathering.

Thus weathered with: Dry brush water based artist acrylic paint and Tamiya acrylic paint , MIG Production Pigments, Tamiya Weathering Kit A, PrismaColor Artist Chalk and pencil lead techniques and sealed with Dullcote.

The last 2 images are 1/35 builds that used very light oil washes and some dry brushing atop airbrushed Tamiya acrylic paint sealed with Dullcote.

Didn't someone last year paint his tank with oils? I think it took almost a month to dry. I prefer acrylics likw Floquil's Polly Scale and Xtracrylix over Model Master and Tamiya.

How do those paints you use compared to the others? I'm always open to new things and tecniques.

I use acrylic ceramic paint , bought from Micheals. The stuff is cheap. Thin it with water add a couple of drops of dish detergent to lower the surface tension, and away you go.

I use a filter on the suction tube of my airbrush and this keeps out at "globs" that might escape my eye when mixing.

I always give my tanks a factory finish, and then Dullcoat. This seals the factory finish. Acrylic weathering and washes are then applied. Again I keep preaching this. Windex window cleaner absolutey removes acrylic paint but does not touch Dullcoat. For guys starting out this is important. If you screw up your first attempts at weathering, spray the tank with windex, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then wipe it down with a soft cloth. Your tank we be restored to it's factory finish and you can try again!!!! If you want to lock in the weathering then dullcoat the tank again.

I really think you should stay away from artist's oil paints for a base coat.

Interesting tips YHR! You certainly have some great results!

I can't wait to tackle my German armor with an airbrush. I think I'll stick with a single action.

I like the color selection most of all. The Tamiya and Model Master acrylics smell and need to be used in a well ventilated area. I can use the others at my kitchen table. They also thin great with just water(I use distilled).

Someone came up with the brilliant idea of using red oxide enamel as your base coat then acrylics for the top. This way you can use windex during the weathering process or let nature take its course as you drive the tank. Over time the acrylic will scratch away revealing the base enamel coat. Pretty cool idea I think! Haven't done it yet though but the same theory has worked with all acrylics. As the top coats have worn or been scratched away it reveals the red oxide then bare metal or plastic.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to try it when I paint my tank.