This thread is for all members to share their ideas and experiences in the areas of painting, weathering and detailing of their tanks. I've seen the gallery, so I know we have some top rate modellers out there.
So, if you have any tips on colour washes, know an easy way of doing weld seams, or you are an ace at applying zimmerit, then let us know how you do it by posting in this thread.
Also, if you are unsure how to do something or want to achieve a certain effect, post a request for help in this thread.

Tutorials on the following have already been requested:

Weathering
Winter Cammo

Let's make this a busy one eh?

Okay, I started the thread so I'll make the first contribution.... Preserving Detail

This may seem unbelievably basic to a lot of you, but I've ruined quite a few models by not following this advice:
NEVER EVER use paint straight from the container. Every coat of paint applied to your tank will remove a small amount of moulding detail, bolts, engine cover recesses, weld seams etc. ALWAYS thin your paint by at least 20% before use if applying by brush.

Correct Base Colour

This tip only applies to WWII German Tanks. These vehicles were initially painted either dark grey, or dark yellow depending upon the the year of manufacture. An excellent site to visit for detailed information on this subject is : [link=http://www.achtungpanzer.com/camo.htm]Achtung Panzer[/link]

I currently use Tamiya acrylic paints and find based on the few colour photo's I've seen that their recommended colours, XF60 Dark Yellow and XF24 Dark Grey aren't quite right. Basically they aren't quite dark enough. To remedy this in both cases add 10% Matt Black and 20% thinners.

Nice Topic: Surely alot of beginners will find this helpful;

I got here an excerpt from one Top modeller (Mr. Don Schmitz is his name, his email is below) from a modeling website (I forgot where)
I find it very useful. I hope he don't mind me posting it here, it will surely help others which I think is his intention.

\-\Start of excerpt-\

Questions on weathering and detail painting.

[Q] What is meant by "weathering" and "detail painting" ?

"Weathering" refers to a number of techniques that are intended to make a model appear more realistic by simulating the effects of the elements
on the subject. Various techniques exist to simulate dirt, fading, spills, paint wear and tear, rusting, etc. "Detail painting" refers to similar
techniques intended to enhance realism by compensating for differences in lighting and viewing between the model and actual subject. For example,
models are often lit by cold white overhead flourescent lights - as opposed to the warm, low-angle illumination of (non noon) sunlight. The result is
extremely different shadows, contrast, etc, that spoil the illusion the model is trying to create.

NOTE:

I was disappointed to find that I hadn't saved many of the recent posts on weathering and detail painting. So, I tried to pull the
basics out of my somewhat leaky memory in order to put this section together.

The following answers attributed to me ([email protected]) are not exactly "authoritive answers" - I have not tried or mastered all of
these techniques - they are intended to point beginers in the right direction and hopefully inspire others to submit better info (hint, hint).

Don

[Q] What are "washes", and how do you do it?

A "wash" is an application of highly thinned paint (or other pigment) intended to deposit color in the nooks and crannies of a model.
Washes are usually (but not always) dark colors, intended to simulate dirt or shadows. One common use for washes is to darken the "holes"
in a molded grill or screen.

I can describe the way I do it on my aircraft kits.

Basically, a wash can be made with any sort of paint which has been sufficiently diluted so that the pigment can run freely to all the
crevices on the model. I can recommend you to try the following solutions:

1. Ink diluted with water
2. Brush-shaped textile marker pen with the tip dipped in water
3. Coffee or strong tea ( lovely dirty rust washes on matt surfaces )
4. Just your ordinary oil-based hobby paint, like Humbrol, extra diluted
5. Ditto with alcohol-based hobby paint, like Gunze-Sangyo. Diluted with water or Ajax glass washing liquid (my favourite solvent for Gunze).
6. Artists' oil paints diluted with thinner.
7. Watercolor or acrylic paints diluted with water.

Whatever you try, try it first on some piece of painted scrap plastic. Here is some other advice:

A wash will adhere differently to gloss and matt surfaces. Sometimes it may be hard to make the wash stay where you want it on a glossy
surface. In such case you will need to reapply it as many times as it's needed, or paint the model with matt or semi-matt varnish before
you apply the wash.

A wash solvent might attack the base paint. For example, if you use alt.6 with a synthetic turpentine it will almost certainly dissolve
base paint coat. The same applies to Ajax in alt. 5 which is quite aggresive against a base paint coat. This effect might be desirable
(worn paint effect), so don't panic, but for the first time I would recceomend you to use neutral wash solvent like water or a milder oil
paint thinner. Alt. 2 is the absolutely easiest and safest to apply, although some people might discuss if you should call it a "wash".

Ink, watercolor, acrylics, coffee and some other washes can be simply wiped of while still wet if you should overdo them. You should never
attemt to wipe off an aggresive wash - see above.

When you mix a wash, use a LOT of thinner and just a LITTLE of paint.

The secrent is to find the solvent which will cause the pingmet to go INTO the crevices and stay there. Some solvents make the pigment to
run away to the edges of the wash istead of making them stay where they are. Make some experiments to find the best solution.

[Q] What is "dry brushing", and how do you do it?

"Dry brushing" is a way to highlight raised details. The basic technique is to dip a brush (ideally with slightly stiff bristles) in
paint, then brush most of the paint off onto a piece of paper towel or cardboard until the brush is nearly empty - that is, until no more
paint comes off on the paper. Then using this brush, lightly brush/scrub over the raised detail you want to highlight. The sharp edges of the
detail engraving will tend to scrape what little paint is left on the brush off, onto the detail.

What color you use for this depnds on the effect you're trying to achieve. Dry brushing with silver/aluminum can be used to simulate
paint chipped edges, for example around the edges of access panels, hatches, etc, or to highlight bolt/rivet detail. You can use a
slightly lighter color than the base color - achieved by adding some amount of white to the base paint - to suggest places where the paint
is worn clean by the hands and feet of operators. Or use a slightly darker paint - achieved by adding flat black or brown to the base
color, to simulate dirt build up.

The above uses of this technique are intended to produce somewhat random results. When you get good at dry brushing, you can also
use this technique to paint fine details such as emblems and scripts on cars, or the engraved numbers on dashboard/cockpit instruments.

[Q] How do I simulate large surface effects such as fading, dust, etc?
[Q] How do you weather with pastel chalk?

There are two basic techniques for weathering large flat surfaces. Both involve applying thin transparent coats of color over the base coat of
paint.

- The first is to use an airbrush to apply a very light coat of the weathering color, typically a black, gray or earthtone, or a lightened
or darkened version of the base color. This takes some practice to get the desired build up.

- A variation on this technique is to spray a slightly "dirty" coat of your favorite clear paint over the model. Add a small amount of compatible
color paint - about 1 part in 20 or less, again typically a black, gray or brown shade - to the clear. Thin and spray on the areas you want to
dull/haze/dirty. The advantage to this technique is that it is hard to put too much color onto the surface.

- Pastel chalk dust can be used to produce effects similar to that obtained with washes and airbrushing. In many ways, this technique is easier
than airbrushing, although as always there are also drawbacks.

In this approach, pastel chalks (not the oil based chalks), again black, grays and/or earthtones, are ground into fine powder by rubbing the chalk
against coarse grit sandpaper. The powdered chalk is applied with a paint brush to build up a dirty/dusty layer.

The pastel dust will come off if the model is handled at all. The pastel can be sealed in with a top coat of your favorite flat
finish clear, but - the clear will greatly reduce the effect of the chalk. If you plan to clear over-coat the chalk, you should greatly
exaggerate the colors.

NOTE: like most modeling techniques, the above can take some amount of practice and experimenting to get the desired effects.

[Q] How do I simulate rusting metal?

... As for the color, It depends upon the age of the rust, so it's up to you. I lke Tamiya's red brown. To simulate rust you can paint it
directly on, but that doesn't look quite right. A better method is to paint the rust color first, then paint the body color. while the body
color is still wet, wipe or scratch off the paint and the rust will show through. Another method is to let the paint dry, then lightly sand it with
fine paper until the rust shows through. This is a very realistic effect. For crusty, crumbling rust, glue baking soda to the rusty area first with
super glue, then paint the rust color. For another effect, using oil paint, scratch on some rust marks with the end of a piece of wire or and
old knife blade. Use Raw Umber or Burnt Sienna. Now for the cool part: Very lightly feather the paint downward with a wide artists brush. Make
sure the brush is completely dry with no thinner or spirits on it. It will look exactly like streaked rust-the kind you see if something has
been in the elements for a long time. Hope you find this helpful. Good luck.

[Q] How do I darken panel lines?

Many modelers like to darken the engraved lines between panels on their aircraft/autos to make them more visible.

There is some debate as to whether you want to do this to an aircraft model. On real aircraft the panels fit very flush and if scaled down
would be hardly noticeable. Many aircraft modelers feel that sharp black panel lines give a plane a cartoon-ish look. The general
consensus is that panel lines on an aircraft should be just subtly darker than the panels themselves.

Autos are a different story - on the real thing there are noticeable gaps around doors, fenders, etc, with large open spaces behind them.
Look at a well lit car and you will see distinct black lines around many of the panels (as always, consult the real thing - welded seams
should be much more subtle on autos too).

Although you would think this is an ideal place to use a wash, you won't get very sharp lines this way. Instead, the weapon of choice is
a #0000 disposable technical pen, available at art supply stores in a number of colors. For autos use black, for a softer line, good for
planes with bare metal panels, try the same type of pen with a gray ink, or use a drafting lead sharpened to a very fine point.

[Q] How do I paint fine details such as emblems and instrument markings?

In addition to the dry brushing technique mentioned previously, there are a few ways to paint very small engraved details. Play
around with the following and pick what works best for you:

1. Use a sharpened tooth-pick or straight pin as a very fine brush.
2. Dip a new (not worn down) pencil eraser into the paint, blot off the excess, then push the eraser surface flat-on to the detail.
3. Instead of paint, use a very sharp color pencil. The "Prismacolor" brand, available in craft stores, works very well and comes in
a huge range of colors including silver/brass/gold that look fairly good.
4. For chrome trim, use "Bare Metal Foil" (see section 9 of this FAQ for address and phone number).


\-\end of excerpt\\


Hope this would help..

Patrick C.

caragan1970: Nice little staring guide you have there, good job! [8D]

Games workshop paints and valejo paints are nice aswell. I have about 13 years of experience with their colours and I can only highly recomend them. Water based so they are extreamly easy to work with and you can clean the brush in water. Also, if you find a colour to think, just add water and it will be thinner. They have primes, foundation paints, washes/inks and more.
I'm used to paint 28mm figures and small scale things, like 1/72 tanks for example. That's easy compared to painting a 1/16 tank I'd say. It's like comparing night and day, I have to get used to it I guess. Would be an easy matter if I were using airbrush I think. And that leads on to my question.

I have never tryed airbrush. Is it any good? Is doubleaction a requierment? What brand to use? If someone with knowledge of airbrushing could direct me to some information site or maybe drop a few lines here I would be happy! I might be buying a kit.

For awesome rust effects try rustall [link]http://www.rustall.com/[/link]

on the HL walker bulldog, where can i get the same colour paint from to paint over some patches where their is no paint? and i have heard about the ammo box on the machine gun supplier with the same tank is in the wrong place, has anybody got a photo or can they explain where it should be?

cheers! Matdragon.

Hi Matdragon
Hope this is of help, tamyia at the bottom of pic.
Pete...............

It needs to be over the "slot", further forward towards the barrel.

col, thankyou very much! will get to work now!

I'm no expert but in air brushes get one and try it out and then go from there. I know it is does not sound like advice but in case you do not like using them and just can't use them you will not be out of a lot of money and some of them can cost a lot. I have a pashelle (spelling i know) but i believe it is single action and i love it. I never tried double action so can't give advice on that one but have heard not to much of difference, price mostly. I found mine in a house I was living in one time, in the attic from previous people, so I got it cheap and got lucky, but finding parts used to be a hard thing to do then when I finally found parts is cost a little. I use a Walmart air compressor that you can vary the pressure on, and it only cost about 80 bucks i go about 20 to 25 psi on mine, recommended by vendor and others as well. I have painted model cars with high gloss to 1/35 tanks camo and other things as well. I love my air brush and only use the hand brush when detailing faces and other items that you just can't get with air brush. So final thing is get one that fits your price range and go from there. Hobby Lobby (in United States) has a good range of air brushes and prices and all accessories, air compressor. Good luck on your choice of air brushes there are lots of them out there. Internet is a good start type in airbrushes in google and have fun. This is my opinion and others can get it on it as well i do not mind critics but be nice.

One shot one kill Sniper67

Excellent post [sm=thumbs_up.gif] Keep them coming

Tracks on Wrong

I don't know if it's just my PzKpfw III or all of them, but it looks like the tracks have been fitted the wrong way round. See pic below for correct orientation.

This is great. I have learned something new already. Hopefully soon I will have some stuff to share. This thread should be made a sticky

Below is a copy of a reply I posted to an airbrush question on a thread back in March of this year, I hope you find it helpful. Please realize this is just my humble opinion based on years of experience, I'm no expert...................but I do play one on TV (LOL)



An airbrush is the one tool that can transform your models from ordinary to extraordinary, one of the best purchases you can ever make for any type of modeling, RC or other wise. Before deciding on a brand name, there are a few other things you should consider.

1. Like any other "new" tool or technique, remember to give yourself plenty of time to practice and master it's use.

2. Invest in a decent "how to" book that covers the basics, you can usually find them starting at about $15 in most art supply stores

3. The two biggest challenges in airbrushing is thinning you paint to the right consistency and cleaning the brush properly after each use

Airbrushes have come a long way since they first appeared on the market. Like anything else you get what you pay for, but don't get overwhelmed with all the latest technologies, keep it simple and get a simple but reliable brush from a recognized name.

Airbrushes have two main types:

Single Action:
With this type when you depress the trigger all you control is air pressure. Paint flow is controlled and set usually with a cone shaped threaded cap at the front of the brush.

Double Action:
With this type when you depress the trigger you control the airflow, by pulling back on the same trigger you can control the volume of paint being released. A Double action brush is harder to use and master, but ultimately gives you more control.

Airbrushes are also categorized by several features or functions

Internal or External mix
If an airbrush has the color cup (where the paint goes) built into the body of the brush it will mix the air and paint inside the brush and is therefore referred too as an internal mix brush. If the gun has a color cup or bottle that you attach to the outside is is called an external mix brush, as the paint and air are mixed just outside the tip of the brush. The paint is atomized and sprayed onto your model.

Syphon or Gravity feed
If the color cup (or bottle) is at the bottom of the brush and has a tube or lift hose that the paint is sucked up through, it is called a syphon feed. If the color cup is at the top of the body of the brush and the paint runs out the bottom of the cup into the body of the gun it's a gravity feed

What does all of this mean? Bottom line is there is a lot of options so be careful, or you may end up paying for an expensive and complicated gun with a lot of features you don't really need.

That being said for a very good solid reliable single action brush that is perfect for spraying models you can't go wrong with either Pasche or Badger. If you want to get fancy and don't mind paying for it you can go for the Cadillac right out of the gate and buy an Iwata. The Testor/Aztek 470 is a decent brush with some unique features, Yes the body is mostly plastic, but it's the only brush that has an adjustment that allows you to use it as a single or double action brush. They also have a patented tip design that is like no other, but can be very finicky to clean.

I have been airbrush ing for over 25 years and currently have 7 different brushes, from several different manufacturers. I have everything from single action, external mix, syphon feed brushes that are simple to operate and very reliable, to a very expensive and very intricate double action, internal mix, gravity feed, Iwata illustration brush that can spray lines as fine as a .03 pencil lead.

For the money (around $65) you simply can't beat a Pashe' HB-100 single action brush and a good book. It's a great brush for beginners that will last you a long time and will still be very useful as your skills increase. badger also makes great beginner brushes (I own one) but I'm partial to the Pashe.

Sorry for the long post, but I hope you find it helpful!

great post on air brushes i knew there were a lot out there but did not know all the fancy names. I a paschle type H NO single action even tho it was free it would make a great investment for serious modelers. I took me over 7 yrs to finally find a bottle for it, air brushing doed out for a while late 80's to early 90's, that's why it took so long to find what i needed and there were no hobby or model shops around my area at the time. i have not replace one thing on it only got the bottle. Make sure you clean them after painting.

PzKpfw III Schurzen Call for help

Would someone out there please post a tutorial/guide on fitting schurzen please?
Plenty of pics would be appreciated.

Simple Chipped Paint Technique

Ever wanted to create realistic looking chipped paint effect without actually having to scrape off your top coat?
Here's a quick how to using SALT

Base coat your tank in whatever color you want under the chips.
When dry, moisten the surface with water - just enough so that salt sticks to the surface.
Apply salt wherever you'd like your chips - it acts as a mask.
Once the moisture has dried, paint your top coat and let that dry. After that, just brush off the salt to reveal your chips.

Thank's alot for the airbrush information streetsquid and sniper

Winter Cammo

Have been scouting around various scale modelling sites for hints and tips on winter cammo and found this little gem.
It's called the hairspray method and will make us all even more popular with our wives and girlfriends.
Basically you have your tank detailed and painted in it's base colour.
You 'acquire' a tin of hairspray and lightly coat your starting panel ( in my case turret roof )
Wait for the hairspray to dry, about 5 minutes and apply a coat of flat white to the panel.
When the paint has dried, take a cup of "hottish" water and a clean soft brush.
Start to wash away the matt white from the areas of base colour you want to show through. ( area's of greatest wear )
Have some tissue or kitchen roll ready to dab off the goo that is created.
I'm very happy with the outcome which took about 15 minutes.
Here's a pic of work in progress.......

Hair Spray Method Update

Have just finished the gun and mantlet. I think this technique has promise.