HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
08-27-2008, 04:32 AM
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HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
Hello folks: this is what I am been working on the past weeks, and since yesterday I reassembled the top and bottom hulls, it is now the right time to tellyou about this project.
The upgrade was in exterior details as well as interiors.
Let's start with some of the details added to the turret:
- rebuilt Rommelkiste
- new side metal slits in correct position
- moved the side port hook upward
- some minor details made from metal
The upgrade was in exterior details as well as interiors.
Let's start with some of the details added to the turret:
- rebuilt Rommelkiste
- new side metal slits in correct position
- moved the side port hook upward
- some minor details made from metal
08-27-2008, 04:38 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
The hull also received some improvements, the biggest of which being the raise of the drive axles of about 4mm, since the original position is too low.
This was obtained by putting a 4mm sheet of Forex under the gearboxes. The upper edge of the gearboxes had to be cut in order to fit inside the hull.
The outer gearbox cover was rotated upwards to copy the new axle position.
Other details included the reshape of the front hatches and hinges, and the motor panels outline redraw.
This was obtained by putting a 4mm sheet of Forex under the gearboxes. The upper edge of the gearboxes had to be cut in order to fit inside the hull.
The outer gearbox cover was rotated upwards to copy the new axle position.
Other details included the reshape of the front hatches and hinges, and the motor panels outline redraw.
08-27-2008, 04:45 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
The most difficult part was fitting Asiatam's elevation/recoil unit inside the turret, while reshaping the mantlet to the correct size and position.
The new gun barrel is made in metal, two parts, one sliding into the other.
Inside the barrel I fitted the muzzle flash led from Blitz, while the warning led was replaced with the IR emitter for the DBC unit.
After a lot of filing and testing of clearances and movements, everything found its place. I also had to repair a small micro inside the recoil unit which came already stuck from the factory.
The new gun barrel is made in metal, two parts, one sliding into the other.
Inside the barrel I fitted the muzzle flash led from Blitz, while the warning led was replaced with the IR emitter for the DBC unit.
After a lot of filing and testing of clearances and movements, everything found its place. I also had to repair a small micro inside the recoil unit which came already stuck from the factory.
08-27-2008, 05:08 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
The hull interiors took a major rework.
First, the Rx-14 board did smoke (again! It's the 2nd RX-14 I smoke out!) when I connected everything. Again the motor fets... burn burn.
40 minutes to change the Rx-14 with a more reliable (for me!) Rx-13.
I removed the smoke generator to make room for a bigger speaker Blitz sent me, which improves by itself the overall sound. But I also wanted to test an additional 6W amplifier I took from Thomas Benedini. That thing makes the Heng Long ROAR!
So, I removed the smoker switch and closed the side hull window, moved the main switch and volume knob under the driver's hatch (which I cut open and hinged), together with an on-board recharge plug.
The 6W amplifier needs its own power connection, which I put after the main switch. Also added an additional heasink, cut from an aluminium sheet.
The additional sound card is between the gearboxes, the internal coil antenna in the back.
Additional connections were required for the muzzle flash led (connected to 2 pins on the HL board): I preferred to remove the original asiatam's muzzle red led (operated with the led stick) to use a white led operated through the 'K' button. Since the left stick function will be connected to the 'K' function through a micro into the transmitter, I will be able to either shoot with full muzzle flash, recoil and IR (left stick) or with just a quick flash+IR (K button alone).
Another connection is a negative wire from the recoil unit, which is used by a micro to automatically move the barrel back into position after the recoil.
Then add the IR led and the DBC-DBU connection and you have the wire mess you see in the picture. I really had to proceed carefully when I screwed the top and bottom hull together, and drop a prayer when later testing the turret rotation!
But the tests went fine, and the battle system interaction at close range too (against my DBC equipped Panzer III).
Now i just have to modifify the transmitter to make the tank fully operational.
First, the Rx-14 board did smoke (again! It's the 2nd RX-14 I smoke out!) when I connected everything. Again the motor fets... burn burn.
40 minutes to change the Rx-14 with a more reliable (for me!) Rx-13.
I removed the smoke generator to make room for a bigger speaker Blitz sent me, which improves by itself the overall sound. But I also wanted to test an additional 6W amplifier I took from Thomas Benedini. That thing makes the Heng Long ROAR!
So, I removed the smoker switch and closed the side hull window, moved the main switch and volume knob under the driver's hatch (which I cut open and hinged), together with an on-board recharge plug.
The 6W amplifier needs its own power connection, which I put after the main switch. Also added an additional heasink, cut from an aluminium sheet.
The additional sound card is between the gearboxes, the internal coil antenna in the back.
Additional connections were required for the muzzle flash led (connected to 2 pins on the HL board): I preferred to remove the original asiatam's muzzle red led (operated with the led stick) to use a white led operated through the 'K' button. Since the left stick function will be connected to the 'K' function through a micro into the transmitter, I will be able to either shoot with full muzzle flash, recoil and IR (left stick) or with just a quick flash+IR (K button alone).
Another connection is a negative wire from the recoil unit, which is used by a micro to automatically move the barrel back into position after the recoil.
Then add the IR led and the DBC-DBU connection and you have the wire mess you see in the picture. I really had to proceed carefully when I screwed the top and bottom hull together, and drop a prayer when later testing the turret rotation!
But the tests went fine, and the battle system interaction at close range too (against my DBC equipped Panzer III).
Now i just have to modifify the transmitter to make the tank fully operational.
08-27-2008, 07:02 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
Awesome work. You've definitely out doe me. I'm just finishing up my Panzer IV conversion (to Ausf G) Should have it done by the end of the week. I may reconsider the drive sprocket placement like you did.
08-27-2008, 07:23 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
If you plan to rise the original gearboxes (i.e. you didn't throw in the low profile ones), I might suggest to just rise the front of the gearbox and keep the rear at the original height. That will spare you a lot of rework on the gearboxes and on the upper hull to make room enought to close the two halves. You will just have to cut a bit from the top of the gearbox side sheets, but with a dremel cutting disc it is quick.
Then you drill two holes each side for the gearbox cover pins, and rotate some degrees the covers around the fixing screw in order to re-center the shaft in them.
One friend of mine followed this way and he obtained the same result with less trouble.
Then you drill two holes each side for the gearbox cover pins, and rotate some degrees the covers around the fixing screw in order to re-center the shaft in them.
One friend of mine followed this way and he obtained the same result with less trouble.
08-27-2008, 07:47 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
Really fine work and I wish I had your expertise in working electronics. You obviously have a good knowlege of the Pz IV and it's great to see posts from people who really care about making the tank authentic and realistic. Thanks for posting the rebuild sequence and descriptions. [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]
08-27-2008, 08:05 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
borealis,
Excellent work,, I can't wait to see the video and hear the sound,, and I have been busy with other things need to get that amplifier and give it a go!
I got a good laugh out of your frustrtation with the RX=14, I felt the same way but I have been getting some better boards lately!
Question, don't you get the same reaction from the tank (recoil, shot sound, cannon flash, henglong jerk) if you push left stick forward or the K button correct?
The Blitz
Excellent work,, I can't wait to see the video and hear the sound,, and I have been busy with other things need to get that amplifier and give it a go!
I got a good laugh out of your frustrtation with the RX=14, I felt the same way but I have been getting some better boards lately!
Question, don't you get the same reaction from the tank (recoil, shot sound, cannon flash, henglong jerk) if you push left stick forward or the K button correct?
The Blitz
08-27-2008, 08:42 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
No Blitz, it's slightly different.
When I push the left stick forward, the recoil motor (which has taken the place of the airsoft motor, and shares the same connections) starts to move a cam wheel.
It takes just a few degrees of rotation for the cam wheel to disengage the recoil sledge, thus letting it (and the barrel) be thrown back from the recoil spring (the spring is in tension when the barrel is in resting position). The backwards movement is instantaneous as it should be.
Meanwhile the cam wheel disengages a normally closed micro which is always under voltage, closing it, and starting the return to resting position of the barrel. When the barrel is at rest, the micro is set open and everything stops, ready for a new impulse.
That is the mechanics.
The original Asiatam unit has another (normally open) micro which is closed by the recoil sledge when it move backwards, operating the stock muzzle flash led (red -coloured). I removed this one.
The recoil unit requires to add a (supplied) microswitch also inside the transmitter. This micro is closed by the left stick itself when pushed forward, and is soldered to the 'K' button pins.
That's why when you push the stick:
- recoil motor operates, making the barrel recoil and the stock led lighten
- the micro inside the transmitter adds the 'K' button cannon sound and tank recoil to the process. With the DBC connected, it also operates the IR beam.
I made a slight change to the stock system. I removed the original muzzle flash led and added the white one you supplied, connected to the HL board and operated through the 'K' button.
Therefore, after adding the micro inside the transmitter I will be able to choose between two shooting modes:
- one is the 'push left stick one', which operates the gun recoil and -if the reloading time from a previous shot has elapsed, since I have the DBC- will operate the IR beam, muzzle flash, gun 'boom' sound and tank recoil. If the reloading time has not elapsed, I will just obtain the barrel to recoil, with no additional light or sound effect.
If I did not remove the stock muzzle flash system, I would also obtain the gun to flash (without really shooting the IR beam), which could be misunderstood as a real shoot during battles (and possibly go against Tamiya's battle rules).
- the 2nd operating mode is the 'quick shot': by just pressing the 'K' button I will operate the IR beam, the muzzle flash and the boom sound with full tank recoil, but without any barrel recoil. Could be useful in battles.
I hope to have explained how the system works clearly enough.
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
When I push the left stick forward, the recoil motor (which has taken the place of the airsoft motor, and shares the same connections) starts to move a cam wheel.
It takes just a few degrees of rotation for the cam wheel to disengage the recoil sledge, thus letting it (and the barrel) be thrown back from the recoil spring (the spring is in tension when the barrel is in resting position). The backwards movement is instantaneous as it should be.
Meanwhile the cam wheel disengages a normally closed micro which is always under voltage, closing it, and starting the return to resting position of the barrel. When the barrel is at rest, the micro is set open and everything stops, ready for a new impulse.
That is the mechanics.
The original Asiatam unit has another (normally open) micro which is closed by the recoil sledge when it move backwards, operating the stock muzzle flash led (red -coloured). I removed this one.
The recoil unit requires to add a (supplied) microswitch also inside the transmitter. This micro is closed by the left stick itself when pushed forward, and is soldered to the 'K' button pins.
That's why when you push the stick:
- recoil motor operates, making the barrel recoil and the stock led lighten
- the micro inside the transmitter adds the 'K' button cannon sound and tank recoil to the process. With the DBC connected, it also operates the IR beam.
I made a slight change to the stock system. I removed the original muzzle flash led and added the white one you supplied, connected to the HL board and operated through the 'K' button.
Therefore, after adding the micro inside the transmitter I will be able to choose between two shooting modes:
- one is the 'push left stick one', which operates the gun recoil and -if the reloading time from a previous shot has elapsed, since I have the DBC- will operate the IR beam, muzzle flash, gun 'boom' sound and tank recoil. If the reloading time has not elapsed, I will just obtain the barrel to recoil, with no additional light or sound effect.
If I did not remove the stock muzzle flash system, I would also obtain the gun to flash (without really shooting the IR beam), which could be misunderstood as a real shoot during battles (and possibly go against Tamiya's battle rules).
- the 2nd operating mode is the 'quick shot': by just pressing the 'K' button I will operate the IR beam, the muzzle flash and the boom sound with full tank recoil, but without any barrel recoil. Could be useful in battles.
I hope to have explained how the system works clearly enough.
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
08-27-2008, 09:13 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
ORIGINAL: borealis
No Blitz, it's slightly different.
When I push the left stick forward, the recoil motor (which has taken the place of the airsoft motor, and shares the same connections) starts to move a cam wheel.
It takes just a few degrees of rotation for the cam wheel to disengage the recoil sledge, thus letting it (and the barrel) be thrown back from the recoil spring (the spring is in tension when the barrel is in resting position). The backwards movement is instantaneous as it should be.
Meanwhile the cam wheel disengages a normally closed micro which is always under voltage, closing it, and starting the return to resting position of the barrel. When the barrel is at rest, the micro is set open and everything stops, ready for a new impulse.
That is the mechanics.
The original Asiatam unit has another (normally open) micro which is closed by the recoil sledge when it move backwards, operating the stock muzzle flash led (red -coloured). I removed this one.
The recoil unit requires to add a (supplied) microswitch also inside the transmitter. This micro is closed by the left stick itself when pushed forward, and is soldered to the 'K' button pins.
That's why when you push the stick:
- recoil motor operates, making the barrel recoil and the stock led lighten
- the micro inside the transmitter adds the 'K' button cannon sound and tank recoil to the process. With the DBC connected, it also operates the IR beam.
I made a slight change to the stock system. I removed the original muzzle flash led and added the white one you supplied, connected to the HL board and operated through the 'K' button.
Therefore, after adding the micro inside the transmitter I will be able to choose between two shooting modes:
- one is the 'push left stick one', which operates the gun recoil and -if the reloading time from a previous shot has elapsed, since I have the DBC- will operate the IR beam, muzzle flash, gun 'boom' sound and tank recoil. If the reloading time has not elapsed, I will just obtain the barrel to recoil, with no additional light or sound effect.
If I did not remove the stock muzzle flash system, I would also obtain the gun to flash (without really shooting the IR beam), which could be misunderstood as a real shoot during battles (and possibly go against Tamiya's battle rules).
- the 2nd operating mode is the 'quick shot': by just pressing the 'K' button I will operate the IR beam, the muzzle flash and the boom sound with full tank recoil, but without any barrel recoil. Could be useful in battles.
I hope to have explained how the system works clearly enough.
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
No Blitz, it's slightly different.
When I push the left stick forward, the recoil motor (which has taken the place of the airsoft motor, and shares the same connections) starts to move a cam wheel.
It takes just a few degrees of rotation for the cam wheel to disengage the recoil sledge, thus letting it (and the barrel) be thrown back from the recoil spring (the spring is in tension when the barrel is in resting position). The backwards movement is instantaneous as it should be.
Meanwhile the cam wheel disengages a normally closed micro which is always under voltage, closing it, and starting the return to resting position of the barrel. When the barrel is at rest, the micro is set open and everything stops, ready for a new impulse.
That is the mechanics.
The original Asiatam unit has another (normally open) micro which is closed by the recoil sledge when it move backwards, operating the stock muzzle flash led (red -coloured). I removed this one.
The recoil unit requires to add a (supplied) microswitch also inside the transmitter. This micro is closed by the left stick itself when pushed forward, and is soldered to the 'K' button pins.
That's why when you push the stick:
- recoil motor operates, making the barrel recoil and the stock led lighten
- the micro inside the transmitter adds the 'K' button cannon sound and tank recoil to the process. With the DBC connected, it also operates the IR beam.
I made a slight change to the stock system. I removed the original muzzle flash led and added the white one you supplied, connected to the HL board and operated through the 'K' button.
Therefore, after adding the micro inside the transmitter I will be able to choose between two shooting modes:
- one is the 'push left stick one', which operates the gun recoil and -if the reloading time from a previous shot has elapsed, since I have the DBC- will operate the IR beam, muzzle flash, gun 'boom' sound and tank recoil. If the reloading time has not elapsed, I will just obtain the barrel to recoil, with no additional light or sound effect.
If I did not remove the stock muzzle flash system, I would also obtain the gun to flash (without really shooting the IR beam), which could be misunderstood as a real shoot during battles (and possibly go against Tamiya's battle rules).
- the 2nd operating mode is the 'quick shot': by just pressing the 'K' button I will operate the IR beam, the muzzle flash and the boom sound with full tank recoil, but without any barrel recoil. Could be useful in battles.
I hope to have explained how the system works clearly enough.
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
Wow thanks Borealis for the detailed explaination I got it now!! I have 2 units trying to decide which tank to install them in, well on have to bu with the EL MOD to see how that works??
Great question, about keeping the flash, this one if for the programmer of the chip, David or Darkih, but the problem is when you take out the recoil the DBC will fire the cannon with the sound from the kit sound card,, so it cuts the sound of the Heng Long Board! And that is the exact spot that we use to tap off of for the cannon flash! Maybe there is a way to take that option out in future kits, or maybe it is as simple as cutting a trace?
The Blitz
The Blitz
08-27-2008, 09:17 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
Thanks for posting, this is a great build!
I plan to do the same things and convert mine to an F2 with low profile gearboxes. Too many irons in the fire to get started though. [&o]
I plan to do the same things and convert mine to an F2 with low profile gearboxes. Too many irons in the fire to get started though. [&o]
08-27-2008, 12:53 PM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
some great mods and detailing there, like they say if its worth doing its worth doing properly, and you have, keep it up
regards icemonkey[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
regards icemonkey[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
08-27-2008, 01:49 PM
#14
RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
Nice job borealis...very nice.
Unfortunately, no. The "block recoil" function on the DBC-HL blocks the signal from reaching the Heng Long ESC board at all, so you can't tap the flash from the board when this feature is activated.
The DBC-RC2HL has a separate recoil (servo driver) and flash (5v burst) that could be used...but that's not the board you're using I believe.
Cheers,
David
ORIGINAL: borealis
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
Blitz, I have a question, though. If I set the DBC to 'no recoil' I have seen that the muzzle flash led does not light up when I shoot. Is there a way to correct this?
The DBC-RC2HL has a separate recoil (servo driver) and flash (5v burst) that could be used...but that's not the board you're using I believe.
Cheers,
David
08-27-2008, 04:31 PM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
I have modified the transmitter, by adding asiatam's internal micro, plus an additional micro to better operate the K shooting button.
Here is a pic:
And I also made a very short video where you can see the test of the shooting functions.
First I shoot with the external button (which is the same as pressing the 'K' button): flash, boom, tank recoil.
Then I operate a full recoil shooting using the left stick: barrel recoil, flash, boom, and tank recoil.
Quickly after that, I try to shoot again during the 5 seconds reload phase (I have set the DBC to 'medium'): just the barrel recoil, no flash, boom nor tank recoil.
Then again, after the 5 seconds have elapsed, full functions.
I kept the volume at minimum because it's night here and my neighbours need to sleep
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgoxljQX3M4
Here is a pic:
And I also made a very short video where you can see the test of the shooting functions.
First I shoot with the external button (which is the same as pressing the 'K' button): flash, boom, tank recoil.
Then I operate a full recoil shooting using the left stick: barrel recoil, flash, boom, and tank recoil.
Quickly after that, I try to shoot again during the 5 seconds reload phase (I have set the DBC to 'medium'): just the barrel recoil, no flash, boom nor tank recoil.
Then again, after the 5 seconds have elapsed, full functions.
I kept the volume at minimum because it's night here and my neighbours need to sleep
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgoxljQX3M4
08-27-2008, 04:47 PM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
That looks very cool, and maybe I am weird but I think that is going to look killer with the tank rocking some also!!!
Shoot now I really want to install one of the units I have, but probably won't be able to do that unitl Sunday..[:-]
Thank for posting keep it coming, I want to hear that boosted sound!
The Blitz
08-27-2008, 07:54 PM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
If you're burning RX14 boards, I'd like to know what info you're using to hook them up...
Also, you said you're burning FETs when you connect everything, now thats worrying... stock motors? Not even started?
Also, you said you're burning FETs when you connect everything, now thats worrying... stock motors? Not even started?
08-28-2008, 01:24 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
ORIGINAL: wackywheelz
If you're burning RX14 boards, I'd like to know what info you're using to hook them up...
Also, you said you're burning FETs when you connect everything, now thats worrying... stock motors? Not even started?
If you're burning RX14 boards, I'd like to know what info you're using to hook them up...
Also, you said you're burning FETs when you connect everything, now thats worrying... stock motors? Not even started?
This time I had already tested the board several times while assembling it (usually I add a component, test that everything is working, add another one, etc.). The burning occurred when I finished connecting everything (recoil, DBC, audio amplifier).
One fet went short-circuit (one of the motors did run even with tank in stand-by) and shortly after cracked open burning. I don't know what happened, maybe a bad soldering.
I'm unlucky with RX-14 boards I fear.
08-28-2008, 01:34 AM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
ORIGINAL: blitzkrieg65
That looks very cool, and maybe I am weird but I think that is going to look killer with the tank rocking some also!!!
Shoot now I really want to install one of the units I have, but probably won't be able to do that unitl Sunday..[:-]
Thank for posting keep it coming, I want to hear that boosted sound!
The Blitz
That looks very cool, and maybe I am weird but I think that is going to look killer with the tank rocking some also!!!
Shoot now I really want to install one of the units I have, but probably won't be able to do that unitl Sunday..[:-]
Thank for posting keep it coming, I want to hear that boosted sound!
The Blitz
Blitz, I might suggest the following: if you plan to keep the DBC set in 'block recoil' mode, then use the stock muzzle flash system (if you don't like the red led, just change it with a white one): so you will have a flash at least when shooting with the left stick.
If you plan to keep the stock HL recoil (as I do), you can assemble it as I did, connecting the flash led to the mainboard.
One side note about the internal microswitch. It has to be positioned in such a way that the barrel recoil movement begins BEFORE the micro is closed. That's a critical point.
In fact, if the 'K' is pressed before the recoil motor is activated, any current to recoil motor is cut off by the HL board itself and no barrel recoil can be obtained. The shooting signal coming from the left stick forward movement is ignored.
But if the barrel motor starts to move before it, the barrel recoils and at that point the mainboard is bypassed by the direct connection of the barrel motor to the power supply (through the recoil micro and the additional black wire connection), and the barrel returns to its original position regardless of any mainboard signal.
08-28-2008, 12:47 PM
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
ORIGINAL: borealis
Blitz, I might suggest the following: if you plan to keep the DBC set in 'block recoil' mode, then use the stock muzzle flash system (if you don't like the red led, just change it with a white one): so you will have a flash at least when shooting with the left stick.
If you plan to keep the stock HL recoil (as I do), you can assemble it as I did, connecting the flash led to the mainboard.
One side note about the internal microswitch. It has to be positioned in such a way that the barrel recoil movement begins BEFORE the micro is closed. That's a critical point.
In fact, if the 'K' is pressed before the recoil motor is activated, any current to recoil motor is cut off by the HL board itself and no barrel recoil can be obtained. The shooting signal coming from the left stick forward movement is ignored.
But if the barrel motor starts to move before it, the barrel recoils and at that point the mainboard is bypassed by the direct connection of the barrel motor to the power supply (through the recoil micro and the additional black wire connection), and the barrel returns to its original position regardless of any mainboard signal.
ORIGINAL: blitzkrieg65
That looks very cool, and maybe I am weird but I think that is going to look killer with the tank rocking some also!!!
Shoot now I really want to install one of the units I have, but probably won't be able to do that unitl Sunday..[:-]
Thank for posting keep it coming, I want to hear that boosted sound!
The Blitz
That looks very cool, and maybe I am weird but I think that is going to look killer with the tank rocking some also!!!
Shoot now I really want to install one of the units I have, but probably won't be able to do that unitl Sunday..[:-]
Thank for posting keep it coming, I want to hear that boosted sound!
The Blitz
Blitz, I might suggest the following: if you plan to keep the DBC set in 'block recoil' mode, then use the stock muzzle flash system (if you don't like the red led, just change it with a white one): so you will have a flash at least when shooting with the left stick.
If you plan to keep the stock HL recoil (as I do), you can assemble it as I did, connecting the flash led to the mainboard.
One side note about the internal microswitch. It has to be positioned in such a way that the barrel recoil movement begins BEFORE the micro is closed. That's a critical point.
In fact, if the 'K' is pressed before the recoil motor is activated, any current to recoil motor is cut off by the HL board itself and no barrel recoil can be obtained. The shooting signal coming from the left stick forward movement is ignored.
But if the barrel motor starts to move before it, the barrel recoils and at that point the mainboard is bypassed by the direct connection of the barrel motor to the power supply (through the recoil micro and the additional black wire connection), and the barrel returns to its original position regardless of any mainboard signal.
This is a great post,,, you are making my job so much easier, your R & D is excellent, you want to move to Southern California? Ok what about this I have a new super Flash that I have been sending out to a few customers where I combine two LED's ! It sounds like I could do the same concept, but seperate the wire connections, and depending on what is used I have a flash either way!
You know I was hoping when they came up with this design that they had a solution to truly integrate the functions of both of the buttons but it sound like that would take some kind of power IC to distribute the power correctly! That is why I have been asking so many questions and when you showed the little micro switch on the other post, it just did not make sense to me? But now it does they just used that little switch to close the circuit, but the two switches are not really integrated!
All that being said it is still a very cool function and the recoil seems to be nice and quick like a blast should be....OK its daytime borealis where is that sound video??
The Blitz[sm=shades_smile.gif]
08-28-2008, 04:49 PM
#22
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
I could also shoot a sound video, but since I use my Photo cam to make it, at maximum volume it would resound just like garbage. However I have found that the Rx-14 sound was clearer, with more dynamics and especially the MG and cannon were more distinct from the motor. Also, the sound now that the hull is closed, is quite lower that during testing. I will see how loud it is in an open courtyard, maybe this weekend.
Since I have begun to paint the whole thing, I am not bringing it out till... maybe sunday.
Some more considerations about the flashes and switches: I could barely fit the 5mm flash led you sent me inside the barrel, since it is good for a 3mm led, while a 5mm one is too big. I had to rework the inside of the barrel, as well as the led itself to fit it till about half way through the barrel. Enough to see it, but closer to the muzzle it would have looked even brighter.
I also thought about fitting both leds inside the barrel, but there is not room enough even for 2x3mm leds.
Finally, I thought about using a double pole micro to duplicate the 'K' button, and act at the same time directly on the left stick contacts, to operate the recoil and everything else using just a button.
But as I wrote before, that would not have worked, since if the 'K' functions do start at the same time as the barrel recoil, the recoil itself is cancelled. The barrel recoil has to start slightly before the 'K' functions, in order to alllow the barrel return micro to do its work.
Since I have begun to paint the whole thing, I am not bringing it out till... maybe sunday.
Some more considerations about the flashes and switches: I could barely fit the 5mm flash led you sent me inside the barrel, since it is good for a 3mm led, while a 5mm one is too big. I had to rework the inside of the barrel, as well as the led itself to fit it till about half way through the barrel. Enough to see it, but closer to the muzzle it would have looked even brighter.
I also thought about fitting both leds inside the barrel, but there is not room enough even for 2x3mm leds.
Finally, I thought about using a double pole micro to duplicate the 'K' button, and act at the same time directly on the left stick contacts, to operate the recoil and everything else using just a button.
But as I wrote before, that would not have worked, since if the 'K' functions do start at the same time as the barrel recoil, the recoil itself is cancelled. The barrel recoil has to start slightly before the 'K' functions, in order to alllow the barrel return micro to do its work.
08-28-2008, 05:32 PM
#23
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
ORIGINAL: borealis
I also thought about fitting both leds inside the barrel, but there is not room enough even for 2x3mm leds.
Finally, I thought about using a double pole micro to duplicate the 'K' button, and act at the same time directly on the left stick contacts, to operate the recoil and everything else using just a button.
But as I wrote before, that would not have worked, since if the 'K' functions do start at the same time as the barrel recoil, the recoil itself is cancelled. The barrel recoil has to start slightly before the 'K' functions, in order to alllow the barrel return micro to do its work.
I also thought about fitting both leds inside the barrel, but there is not room enough even for 2x3mm leds.
Finally, I thought about using a double pole micro to duplicate the 'K' button, and act at the same time directly on the left stick contacts, to operate the recoil and everything else using just a button.
But as I wrote before, that would not have worked, since if the 'K' functions do start at the same time as the barrel recoil, the recoil itself is cancelled. The barrel recoil has to start slightly before the 'K' functions, in order to alllow the barrel return micro to do its work.
Well looking forward to the paint job this is going to be killer tank!
The Blitz
08-29-2008, 01:18 AM
#24
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RE: HL Panzer IV upgraded to recoil and DBC
I will paint it German Grey, but I haven't found many reference pictures to paint the markings.
If anyone has useful pictures of a grey Pz IV F1, please please show them!
If anyone has useful pictures of a grey Pz IV F1, please please show them!
