HL PzIII Return Roller Hell
#1
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From: NorwichNorfolk, UNITED KINGDOM
It looks like I'm forced to raise those damn return rollers to their correct positions afterall.
While running the PzIII with metal tracks (and lately Osketten) I could hear a 'ratcheting' noise that seemed to come and go depending on the track tightness. It was very annoying. Well it turns out that incorrect position of the 6 return roller mounts on this hull causes the tracks to rest on and eat away at the front and rear suspension mounts! This also happens with plastic tracks (unless they are tight) but is too quiet to notice. Metal tracks with any kind of (realistic) slack in them rest on these plastic mounts and eat them up.
Has anyone else noticed this? [:@]
It looks like I'm going to have to raise the damn things to their correct positions afterall and this is after I've painted the damn thing! The ausf. H and and the new Stug probably suffer from the same problem.
While running the PzIII with metal tracks (and lately Osketten) I could hear a 'ratcheting' noise that seemed to come and go depending on the track tightness. It was very annoying. Well it turns out that incorrect position of the 6 return roller mounts on this hull causes the tracks to rest on and eat away at the front and rear suspension mounts! This also happens with plastic tracks (unless they are tight) but is too quiet to notice. Metal tracks with any kind of (realistic) slack in them rest on these plastic mounts and eat them up.
Has anyone else noticed this? [:@]
It looks like I'm going to have to raise the damn things to their correct positions afterall and this is after I've painted the damn thing! The ausf. H and and the new Stug probably suffer from the same problem.
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From: Renton,
WA
Are you talking about the shock absorbers, as in this photo?
[link=http://www.rccommand.com/stug12_large.jpg]StuG side profile[/link]
Just trying to clarify what you mean.
[link=http://www.rccommand.com/stug12_large.jpg]StuG side profile[/link]
Just trying to clarify what you mean.
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From: NorwichNorfolk, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: dyeager535
Are you talking about the shock absorbers, as in this photo?
[link=http://www.rccommand.com/stug12_large.jpg]StuG side profile[/link]
Just trying to clarify what you mean.
Are you talking about the shock absorbers, as in this photo?
[link=http://www.rccommand.com/stug12_large.jpg]StuG side profile[/link]
Just trying to clarify what you mean.
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From: Renton,
WA
I'll have to check mine out. I haven't run it much, but metal on plastic will show wear immediately. I'm running the HL metal tracks, and the tension is fairly tight on them, but I'll check and see what's going on with mine.
I am assuming that the idea to move the rollers is based on wanting the presentation to be accurate, otherwise I'd say it might be easier to relocate the shocks themselves (4 vs 6, and one bolt vs glue?) or make a washer that fits under the shock screw that keeps the track from being able to reach the plastic body. It wouldn't take much, and painted black/shaped to fit, should be unnoticeable to the eye except if the tank was viewed directly from the side.
Or if it will work where the rubbing occurs, use black shrink rap to add a wear barrier.
Scratch that, got a better view of the mount, the washer idea might work, but that's it. Still would have to modify a washer a fair amount to get it to clear the mount design without cutting the mount up a hair.
http://www.rccommand.com/stug4_large.jpg
I am assuming that the idea to move the rollers is based on wanting the presentation to be accurate, otherwise I'd say it might be easier to relocate the shocks themselves (4 vs 6, and one bolt vs glue?) or make a washer that fits under the shock screw that keeps the track from being able to reach the plastic body. It wouldn't take much, and painted black/shaped to fit, should be unnoticeable to the eye except if the tank was viewed directly from the side.
Or if it will work where the rubbing occurs, use black shrink rap to add a wear barrier.
Scratch that, got a better view of the mount, the washer idea might work, but that's it. Still would have to modify a washer a fair amount to get it to clear the mount design without cutting the mount up a hair.
http://www.rccommand.com/stug4_large.jpg
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From: nelson, UNITED KINGDOM
Yes it does this with mine but not to bad probably because i have home made metal return wheels fitted which are about 1mm bigger in dia but even so it still scrapes the to of suspension lugs next time its in for repair will lift all of them to stop it
regards pete
P.S Rob you are right nick did raise this point
regards pete
P.S Rob you are right nick did raise this point
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From: HuddersfieldWest Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Panzerfaust77,
I raised the return rollers on my PZIII after reading an inpirational build on panzerketten. This build however has for some strange reason been deleted.
If you need any help/advice with yours just let me know.
Nick.
I raised the return rollers on my PZIII after reading an inpirational build on panzerketten. This build however has for some strange reason been deleted.
If you need any help/advice with yours just let me know.
Nick.
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From: NorwichNorfolk, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: gigantohawk
Hi Panzerfaust77,
I raised the return rollers on my PZIII after reading an inpirational build on panzerketten. This build however has for some strange reason been deleted.
If you need any help/advice with yours just let me know.
Nick.
Hi Panzerfaust77,
I raised the return rollers on my PZIII after reading an inpirational build on panzerketten. This build however has for some strange reason been deleted.
If you need any help/advice with yours just let me know.
Nick.
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From: NorwichNorfolk, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: TXtanker
Someone on a German site suggests starting from the front 2mm 4mm 3mm at the rear I did that to my stug which has Osketten tracks and they dont hit!
Someone on a German site suggests starting from the front 2mm 4mm 3mm at the rear I did that to my stug which has Osketten tracks and they dont hit!
#11
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You can fill the holes after you drill the new ones also.
Jom has some good info on raising the return roller, I followed this method and they turned out fine.
Scroll down to post #8
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_71...2Cbuild/tm.htm
Jom has some good info on raising the return roller, I followed this method and they turned out fine.
Scroll down to post #8
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_71...2Cbuild/tm.htm
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From: HuddersfieldWest Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
You're right those are tiny offsets and those are the ones I used.They do make the tank look better but in my opinion at least another 1mm is required on all the rollers, possibly even more when the rear idler is raised and it's diameter increased by 1mm. I know increasing the idler diameter will detract from scale but I still think it's the lesser of two evils as it's stock diameter is to small.
Here's some pic's of the work done a while ago and you will probably agree with me that more raising is required.
All the best,
Nick.
Here's some pic's of the work done a while ago and you will probably agree with me that more raising is required.
All the best,
Nick.
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From: HuddersfieldWest Yorkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
I've been trawling through just about every PZIII/Stug III pic known to man and the internet. When my Stug's arrive sometime this week I'll kit one and start again on the dimensions and hopefully this will be the difinitive conclusion...Here's hoping.
Nick.
Nick.






