T34 battery
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T34 battery
Hi all,
Just got a T34 from Bill at rccommmand and had a question about batteries. I plan on eventualy converting it to heng long internals but for the mean time i would like to use a normal rechargable pack. Besides the work to have it fit , will the WSN internals work off a 7.2v pack without frying? I found plenty of stuff on converting it but nothing that specifically dealt with the battery.
thanks
Just got a T34 from Bill at rccommmand and had a question about batteries. I plan on eventualy converting it to heng long internals but for the mean time i would like to use a normal rechargable pack. Besides the work to have it fit , will the WSN internals work off a 7.2v pack without frying? I found plenty of stuff on converting it but nothing that specifically dealt with the battery.
thanks
#3
RE: T34 battery
It will work with the lower voltage, but the speed will be much slower which is good since the WSN has only one speed. It originally took 8 1.5 volt batteries which is 12 volts.
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RE: T34 battery
cool, thanks guys. Didnt realize it was only one speed but thats fine since putting in a normal pack is a great first step to the HL conversion.
#5
RE: T34 battery
At least it's safe and let's hope that it's enough voltage to drive the system.
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RE: T34 battery
I'm happy to report back that my battery conversion works great. I cut out the AA box, glued in some plastic so the hatch would work, resoldered the battery wires up with deans connectors, plugged in my 3300 NiMH stick pack and off she went . It's only one speed but its the perfect speed and isn't any slower/faster than i normally drive the variable speed tanks.
Now my next step is figuring out how to secure the battery better. It seems with the hull together the stick pack will just slip up and back resting on the gear box and then sit snugly on the suspension mounts. I'm using an rc car shock spring to put tension enough to hold it inplace but outdoors it will probably come out. I should be able to make some sort of plastic box and use velcro to secure the batt. Having the normal hatch still functioning makes it easy to charge too.
Now my question is...will the motors start to wear with reduced voltage or is this actually better for the electronics?
Now my next step is figuring out how to secure the battery better. It seems with the hull together the stick pack will just slip up and back resting on the gear box and then sit snugly on the suspension mounts. I'm using an rc car shock spring to put tension enough to hold it inplace but outdoors it will probably come out. I should be able to make some sort of plastic box and use velcro to secure the batt. Having the normal hatch still functioning makes it easy to charge too.
Now my question is...will the motors start to wear with reduced voltage or is this actually better for the electronics?