Tow Cables
03-24-2009, 08:37 AM
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RE: Tow Cables
I have been thinking about buying some stranded copper wire to make some myself using the ends from the plastic cable on my PIII and Stug. My usual goto place for stuff like this is McMaster-Carr. Anybody know the specs on some good wire to buy for this purpose?
03-24-2009, 07:01 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
They're 1/16 scale.
Here's a link to one for a Panzer III.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Metal-tow-cables-for-1-16-Heng-Long-Pz-III-IV_W0QQitemZ400008759981QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toys Games_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item400008759981&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A2|294%3A50
Here's a link to one for a Panzer III.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Metal-tow-cables-for-1-16-Heng-Long-Pz-III-IV_W0QQitemZ400008759981QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toys Games_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item400008759981&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18|301%3A1|293%3A2|294%3A50
03-24-2009, 07:20 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
Thanks Dazman, but I'm really thinking to try a shot at making them myself using the ends of the plastic cables. It just seems too straightforward, but maybe I'm underestimating the difficulty
05-08-2009, 04:12 AM
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RE: Tow Cables
I made cables out of solder. I took 3 pieces of thin solder and evenly twisted them and then added the ends to them. They came out much better the I thought they would. The other nice thing is you can mold it to any shape you want and it stay put like if you wanted it to hang over the side of the hull. I will try and post some pics.
05-08-2009, 10:13 AM
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RE: Tow Cables
fsciorelli (Frank).
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
05-08-2009, 07:46 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
ORIGINAL: streetsquid
fsciorelli (Frank).
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
fsciorelli (Frank).
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
It looks like you used the Aber kit, did you?
05-08-2009, 10:34 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
dazman,
Wow! Thank you for the kind compliment. I didn't use any photo-etch on the Panther, except for the rear deck screens. Besides the screens the only other aftermarket items were resin periscopes and front hatches. I bought the tank used and the guy I bought from had already purchased those items but had not installed them, so I did when I decided to refurb it.
I guess I am thrifty, and that it comes from years of being responsible for a family and thus a tight budget. Funny thing is now a little later in life, and a little further along in my career I don't need to be as thrifty but I guess old habits die hard. I also really enjoy coming up with ways of using inexpensive or unorthadox materials and methods. I now try to treat each new project as a big experiment.
I did a complete build thread on that Panther if you're even remotely interested in seeing more. Here's a link to that thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_72...tm.htm#7232225
I'm also in the middle of building an accurized M4A3 (75) W Sherman in winter white wash. In fact I'll be posting some more pictures of that build tomorrow, so keep an eye out for that.
Thanks for the compliments and interest.
Streetsquid
You can also see complete builds in the projects section of our club website; www.desertarmor.com
Wow! Thank you for the kind compliment. I didn't use any photo-etch on the Panther, except for the rear deck screens. Besides the screens the only other aftermarket items were resin periscopes and front hatches. I bought the tank used and the guy I bought from had already purchased those items but had not installed them, so I did when I decided to refurb it.
I guess I am thrifty, and that it comes from years of being responsible for a family and thus a tight budget. Funny thing is now a little later in life, and a little further along in my career I don't need to be as thrifty but I guess old habits die hard. I also really enjoy coming up with ways of using inexpensive or unorthadox materials and methods. I now try to treat each new project as a big experiment.
I did a complete build thread on that Panther if you're even remotely interested in seeing more. Here's a link to that thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_72...tm.htm#7232225
I'm also in the middle of building an accurized M4A3 (75) W Sherman in winter white wash. In fact I'll be posting some more pictures of that build tomorrow, so keep an eye out for that.
Thanks for the compliments and interest.
Streetsquid
You can also see complete builds in the projects section of our club website; www.desertarmor.com
05-08-2009, 11:52 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
ORIGINAL: streetsquid
fsciorelli (Frank).
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
fsciorelli (Frank).
Using the plastic kit ends is straight forward and is extremely easy and quick to do. I used that method on my Tamiya Panther G, but instead of using wire I used an inexpensive braided rope I found at Michael's Arts and Crafts in the jewelery and bead area. Cost me around $2.00-3.00 for an 8ft. length.
I think they look Ok. Don't have the weight of real wire but they are flexible and still sag realistically. The braid is slightly larger than the Tamiya molded cable but I don't think it is that noticeable.
Best of luck!
Squid
05-09-2009, 02:41 PM
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RE: Tow Cables
Guys...
Want the braided rope to stay in a particular shape without stiffening it with glue or paint? Try feeding a thin piece of copper wire down the middle. Works a treat! I got the idea from the type of candle-wick that has a burnable wire stiffener in it.
I hate it when your wicks go flat in the cooling pool of wax, and ya gotta dig 'em out? That or the wick sags to one side as it burns, and you get an uneven burn on the candle.
WhiteWolf
Want the braided rope to stay in a particular shape without stiffening it with glue or paint? Try feeding a thin piece of copper wire down the middle. Works a treat! I got the idea from the type of candle-wick that has a burnable wire stiffener in it.
I hate it when your wicks go flat in the cooling pool of wax, and ya gotta dig 'em out? That or the wick sags to one side as it burns, and you get an uneven burn on the candle.
WhiteWolf
