here goes... been modifying model kits for 4 years but this is my 1st time to modify an RC... from my experiece i know i will be encountering some problems/breakdowns while the word is n progress... so i did encountered 2 problems/breakdowns...
1st prob is the wire that connects the antena and the reciever board got pulled off from the board (i reattached it then) -
2nd my reciever board burned down.. the cver of the three wires that connects the reciever board to RX-18 board got burned.
dont know if i connected the antena connetor to the reciever board correctly or not.. because after i reconnect the wire from the antena to the recieve board the board burned down..
so i ordered a new reciever board from bill..

been playing with ths tiger for about 6 months now.. but i noticed the make body started to bend a lil bit.. so i added a metal bars to prevent it from bending... also removed the bat container and made the tank water resistant... sealed every opening.. and added metal plates n bttm..
so heres some pics.. not yet finish though.

Chin

You are doing a Bang Up Job!!! Looking sweet!

Hey about your board. I'm glad you burned it up! I'm very happy you burned it up! Why? Well now you will dig even deeper into the problem. You will learn, and you might even expirement and find something that could benefit us all.

So don't worry about the boo boos. I learned more from mine than I would have ever known had everything worked fine the first time. That is another great thing about these HENG LONG tanks. Forthe most part we can afford to goof up.

One of reasons so many died on the TITANIC was the fact that in all his years at sea the Captain had never had a problem or emergency. When he needed that expirence the most he just did not have it.

Thanks for sharing you opps, and be sure to post what you found to be the problem.


Don

thanks..
yup.. now am learning how to dealt with the wirings and connecting it.. while waiting for my new reciever board cuz i just ordered it today am gonna find out why my reciever board got burned and didnt affect my RX-18 board.. my next step would be to cut the hatch of the driver and hull gunner an make it operational and order a creepingdeath turret... right now ths tiger weighs 25% heavier. still th high torque gear can handle the weight..
more p[ics to come

chin

Nice job Chinto. I like how you did your hatches and moved the switches, and rather than installing a chaging jack just made your wires accessible from the hatches. I wish there was an easy way to open the tank without removing the tracks. I've seen some attempts on here with different methods, but if you don't use the screws above the tracks you lose even more strength and it bends even worse. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

thanks
i bought some L shaped screw driver from home depot so that i wont be removing the tracks every time i open it.. really helps alot but takes time to remove the screws using that L shape screw..

opinion or sggstions from you guys would be appreciated...

Trust me when you get all the metal upgrades you will wonder howthe thing will even move but trust me it does!

Have a great time!!

Don

yup..am still searching for early tiger I's metal road wheels... it seems they only have ate tiger road wheels.

Good work so far Chin!

Man those back hatches look like a nice clean cut, what did you use for hindges?


The Blitz













RCTankWars.com

asiatam.de used to make the early metal road wheels with rubber tires. I haven't seen them on their site for awhile now, though. You might drop them a line and ask if they still make them.

i used a scalpel No. 11 took me 2 hours to finish both...
for hindges i used a tiny aluminum for hindge which my friend made for hs model house.. ntended for hs model house doors..

installed a huge aluminum base to support the bttm hull. about .7 inch thick
installed a two metal bars undernt the two gear box. about .3 or .4 inch thick
installed a custom made internal antena... (this is the caused of my 2 previous recievers to burn out.. hahahahahhaha... finally perfected it...)
installed a two 1" iron bars to hold the batter from sides..


my next project would be the top hull... dont kow yet if am going to paint it or just detail it..

dar out....

how did you make it waterproof. (there are alot of openings)

yes.. and tested already
dont worry those wholes are for the screws...

I actually meant how did you (what did you use to ) cover the openings like the opening for the drive sprockets and the suspension arms?

sorry by bad.. i think i was hlf asleep that time i read your post
drive sprockets - i installed a sealed bearing
for the suspension arms i used a aluminum bar and sealed it with a hard silicon sealant used in plumbing.

dar

That's great. One more question. Where did you get a sealed bearing. I want to try this with my tanks as well.

I know its been talked about here somewhere but can you confirm the diameter of the HL drive sprocket. Just want to confirm what size bearing I should look to get. Thanks again

i got my bearing from my local hardware store (home depot)
the size i got is 1.5mm outer and the inner diameter is .7mm and made a aluminum lock.. (i used a tape measure)
i made the hole a lil bit bigger so that the bearing can fit inside the gear...
hope ths help

heres my tank..

some more
i used GUNDAM markers

Thats one tough looking tank Chin, and you got plenty of spare track, to help beef up the armor! Now lets see some video of that beast!

The Blitz

strong wind outside...
heres the vid... i used my cp's video..my cam cord was discharge.. so have to use my cp.. enjoy.

http://s316.photobucket.com/albums/m...=MOV000022.flv