Tamiya battery pack wiring question
#1
Thread Starter
Tamiya battery pack wiring question
Looking to make a custom battery pack for a Tamiya Tiger I. Am considering this site for the pack: cheapbatterypacksdotcom.
My question is about the wiring and connector. The site shows two different style Tamiya connectors. Large male and female or Small male and female. Should I be getting the Tamiya Large female connector on a 6-cell sub "C" 7.2Volt pack (3300 or 4000mAh)? I'm guessing the battery pack should have a female connector on it, but am unsure about that, along with which size is appropriate.
I assume the followingwould be a goodpack to use if one wanted to buy a Tamiya brand pack, which is more expensive: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=55088
Also, I read another thread on here that was talking about needing to run TWO battery packs with the Tiger I, or by using this part (Tamiya RC 2-Way Connector: Part #56014, Item #7255032, MSRP (USA): $6.25), a splitter, you could hook one pack up to both the DMD and MF units. Do most people run two packs or use one pack with this splitter?
Lastly, any suggestions for a battery charger unit that would work decently to charge a pack like this and costless than$100?
Thanks.
#2
RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
I can't answer your first question because I don't know what your asking, Tamiya Tanks use 7.2v Ni-MH batteries with male plug like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2147160 The second question is I use two 7.2v 3300mAH Ni-MH batteries...they last for all our battles. Third question is I use this: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN4044
Hope this helps,
Duane
Hope this helps,
Duane
#3
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RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
ORIGINAL: RSEA
Looking to make a custom battery pack for a Tamiya Tiger I. Am considering this site for the pack: cheapbatterypacksdotcom.
My question is about the wiring and connector. The site shows two different style Tamiya connectors. Large male and female or Small male and female. Should I be getting the Tamiya Large female connector on a 6-cell sub "C" 7.2Volt pack (3300 or 4000mAh)? I'm guessing the battery pack should have a female connector on it, but am unsure about that, along with which size is appropriate.
I assume the followingwould be a goodpack to use if one wanted to buy a Tamiya brand pack, which is more expensive: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=55088
Also, I read another thread on here that was talking about needing to run TWO battery packs with the Tiger I, or by using this part (Tamiya RC 2-Way Connector: Part #56014, Item #7255032, MSRP (USA): $6.25), a splitter, you could hook one pack up to both the DMD and MF units. Do most people run two packs or use one pack with this splitter?
Lastly, any suggestions for a battery charger unit that would work decently to charge a pack like this and costless than$100?
Thanks.
Looking to make a custom battery pack for a Tamiya Tiger I. Am considering this site for the pack: cheapbatterypacksdotcom.
My question is about the wiring and connector. The site shows two different style Tamiya connectors. Large male and female or Small male and female. Should I be getting the Tamiya Large female connector on a 6-cell sub "C" 7.2Volt pack (3300 or 4000mAh)? I'm guessing the battery pack should have a female connector on it, but am unsure about that, along with which size is appropriate.
I assume the followingwould be a goodpack to use if one wanted to buy a Tamiya brand pack, which is more expensive: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=55088
Also, I read another thread on here that was talking about needing to run TWO battery packs with the Tiger I, or by using this part (Tamiya RC 2-Way Connector: Part #56014, Item #7255032, MSRP (USA): $6.25), a splitter, you could hook one pack up to both the DMD and MF units. Do most people run two packs or use one pack with this splitter?
Lastly, any suggestions for a battery charger unit that would work decently to charge a pack like this and costless than$100?
Thanks.
1. Tamiya connectors – Large male and female
2. Go to your local AZ rc hobby shop and you can buy a couple of 7.2v Ni-MH batteries with Tamiya Connectors for about $21.00 each (one in the tank and use the second battery as a fully charged spare).
3. Go to your local AZ rc hobby shop to purchase, at your price point, a good auto shut-off 7.2v Ni-MH Battery Charger and make sure the charger can handle whatever size batteries you buy (3000 and up).
4. Yes: Use the Tamiya RC 2-Way Connector: Part #56014, Item #7255032, MSRP (USA): $6.25)
Why: Running one battery will give you more room to bundle your wiring plus running 2 batteries doesn't give you much run time performance improvement. The tank stops when one battery goes flat, even if the other is fully charged.
#4
RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
Stock Tamiya connectors can be a bit flakey. Some gremlin type problems with the electronics can usually be traced back to loose connectors. If you are going to all the trouble of building you own battery packs, go all the way and replace the connectors with Deans Plugs. Not only do they provide a much improved connection, but they are smaller than the plugs they replace. Not a big deal in the Tiger, but in some of the smaller tanks or tighter interiors, every little bit helps.
http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html
Two battery packs were a bigger deal a few years ago when you were running 1600, or 1800 packs. Now with 3000 + readily available, you should have no problem running just one.
And YES, the battery should always have the female connector, unless you like finding out what happens when you accidently ground out a newly charged battery.[X(]
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RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
Chargers:
I'd highly recommend the Duratrax Pirahna AC/DC Digital Peak unit, programmable, able to handle 1-8 cells, NiCd & NiMH both. Variable charge rate and peak detection too. Only downside is it only does one pack at a time (thats why I have 3 of 'em)
http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4005.html
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLD5&P=7
One question... custom packs? What voltages do you intend, or is it just a custom shape you're looking for? Just idle curiosity as I had packs made years ago for a cigarette boat, used discarded/obsolete NiCd cells from a laptop. Cost me $1 a connection ($7 total) they supplied the shrink, I supplied the wired connector.
WhiteWolf
I'd highly recommend the Duratrax Pirahna AC/DC Digital Peak unit, programmable, able to handle 1-8 cells, NiCd & NiMH both. Variable charge rate and peak detection too. Only downside is it only does one pack at a time (thats why I have 3 of 'em)
http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4005.html
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLD5&P=7
One question... custom packs? What voltages do you intend, or is it just a custom shape you're looking for? Just idle curiosity as I had packs made years ago for a cigarette boat, used discarded/obsolete NiCd cells from a laptop. Cost me $1 a connection ($7 total) they supplied the shrink, I supplied the wired connector.
WhiteWolf
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RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
ORIGINAL: ksoc
Stock Tamiya connectors can be a bit flakey. Some gremlin type problems with the electronics can usually be traced back to loose connectors. If you are going to all the trouble of building you own battery packs, go all the way and replace the connectors with Deans Plugs. Not only do they provide a much improved connection, but they are smaller than the plugs they replace. Not a big deal in the Tiger, but in some of the smaller tanks or tighter interiors, every little bit helps.
Stock Tamiya connectors can be a bit flakey. Some gremlin type problems with the electronics can usually be traced back to loose connectors. If you are going to all the trouble of building you own battery packs, go all the way and replace the connectors with Deans Plugs. Not only do they provide a much improved connection, but they are smaller than the plugs they replace. Not a big deal in the Tiger, but in some of the smaller tanks or tighter interiors, every little bit helps.
http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html
Two battery packs were a bigger deal a few years ago when you were running 1600, or 1800 packs. Now with 3000 + readily available, you should have no problem running just one.
And YES, the battery should always have the female connector, unless you like finding out what happens when you accidently ground out a newly charged battery.[X(]
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Tamiya battery pack wiring question
Thanks for all the answers and suggestions guys!
I did notice one bit of conflicting info though.. Pzjgr said to use a battery with a male connector attached to it. Ksoc said to use a battery with a Large female connector attached to it. It would appear that Pzjgr must be mistaken on that one?
Using a single battery with aY-splitter connector seems like the way to go.I'll take the Deans plug suggestion into future consideration, but will probably end up going with the Tamiya connectors this time around. The warning about heating up the electronic units and damaging them could probably be minimized byclamping a "solder heat sink" directly behind the connection that one is solderingon (between the solder connection and the DMD unit). This way most ofthe heatshouldtravelinto the sink, instead of travelling into the DMD and MF units.
Whitewolf asked why a custom pack? I was referring to the custom packs on the cheapbatterypack website. You pick the configuration, cell type, connector type, wire gauge, etc. and they assemble you a pack just like you have specified. It would be a 7.2v 6-cell Sub-"C" pack (2 rowsby3 cells) like the stock Tamiya battery. Though for example, if one wanted to, you could get all 6 cells in a single row or bundled like sticks of dynamite etc. Some guys here posted links to other pack options that are less expensive than the Tamiya packs too. I'll look into those also.
I did notice one bit of conflicting info though.. Pzjgr said to use a battery with a male connector attached to it. Ksoc said to use a battery with a Large female connector attached to it. It would appear that Pzjgr must be mistaken on that one?
Using a single battery with aY-splitter connector seems like the way to go.I'll take the Deans plug suggestion into future consideration, but will probably end up going with the Tamiya connectors this time around. The warning about heating up the electronic units and damaging them could probably be minimized byclamping a "solder heat sink" directly behind the connection that one is solderingon (between the solder connection and the DMD unit). This way most ofthe heatshouldtravelinto the sink, instead of travelling into the DMD and MF units.
Whitewolf asked why a custom pack? I was referring to the custom packs on the cheapbatterypack website. You pick the configuration, cell type, connector type, wire gauge, etc. and they assemble you a pack just like you have specified. It would be a 7.2v 6-cell Sub-"C" pack (2 rowsby3 cells) like the stock Tamiya battery. Though for example, if one wanted to, you could get all 6 cells in a single row or bundled like sticks of dynamite etc. Some guys here posted links to other pack options that are less expensive than the Tamiya packs too. I'll look into those also.