Laser In my Tiger
#1
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From: Denver,
CO
After taking my Tiger all apart and fixing the mantlet and installing a pen laser, the laser stopped working. Would anyone have a link for Ebay or whatever of a replacement laser pointer? The pointer I installed used 3 button cell batteries and I forgot to solder the resistor back in for the red LED warning light and I guess I burned the laser out.....
Thanks!
Skitt
Thanks!
Skitt
#2
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This is what I used. HL has around 2.4v going to the mantlet machine gun LED so you can just swap them out and no need to replace batteries like you do with your pointer. Neat effect... just like Creeping Death uses in their tanks/turrets. Just cut the wires to the machine gun LED and solder this in its place. This is a 3v laser diode, but the 2.4v operates it fine. Also, this way it isn't on all the time and won't run down batteries. Just press the "G" button on the HL radio and it pulses with machine gun sound. Easy mod, and you can't beat the price! $3.99 and free shipping! I've ordered from these guys twice and never had a problem with them
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laser-Diode-Modu...3A1%7C294%3A50
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laser-Diode-Modu...3A1%7C294%3A50
#3
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From: Denver,
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Thanks Ern! I just wired it to the LED, so that when I would fire a pellet it would come on at the same time. Worked very well for one shot,then stopped working.
Skitt
Skitt
#6
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Personal preference I guess. I removed the airsoft warning light and just filled in the hole for a couple reasons. Although not important to some, "historical accuracy" I guess is the term. There wasn't anything there on the real Tigers. Mainly though because you will only get the laser to light a couple seconds prior to the shot firing if you use the warning light wiring. I like being able to use the turret machine gun/laser to aim. You can fire/light up the laser as much as you want. You do have a point that it is closer to the barrel, but these guns aren't really that accurate and it would be just about impossible to align the shot with the laser anyway. I just aim a bit to the right and blast away. I guess you coud put the laser where the warning LED is and still wire it to the machine gun wiring... I just didn't want two holes there. The machine gun light also works with the barrel - it's just a bot farther to the right.
If you haven't seen the Creeping Death video, watch it and you will see how mine looks from the front of the tank, and there is also a shot of the laser scanning across some furnitire or something while they are traversing the turret. Neat effect!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N3OZrhbeZc
Here's a pic of my Creeping Death turret. The one that I installed is under construction now but it is in the same location.
If you haven't seen the Creeping Death video, watch it and you will see how mine looks from the front of the tank, and there is also a shot of the laser scanning across some furnitire or something while they are traversing the turret. Neat effect!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N3OZrhbeZc
Here's a pic of my Creeping Death turret. The one that I installed is under construction now but it is in the same location.
#7
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From: Denver,
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Thanks Ern, Much Appreciated! I have seen the creeping death video before and it's very cool. I may just take your suggestion on the laser placement as the guns are not that accurate as you said..... and it would look better too. I spent the time to fix the mantlet last week, so might as well keep going. I also want to change the gearing to 3:1 and put metal tracks, wheels and the chassis insert that Bill has at RC Command. I just have to do it as I have time and oh ya money too.
BTW,why does the tank not lurch back when the gun recoils? Or did I miss something?
Skitt
BTW,why does the tank not lurch back when the gun recoils? Or did I miss something?
Skitt
#8
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The metal Asiatam hull is awesome - you will love it. I just got one from Bill with the metal wheel set for the Tiger I said was under construction, and opted for the steel gears instead of the metal 3:1 gearboxes. I hate the noise that the metal gears make and everyone says the steel gears are very quiet. Very nice design with that quick release latch system on the hull! It's going to be nice to be able to open it up without taking off the tracks and all of those screws.
I'm not sure why they don't combine the recoiling barrel with the tank recoil action, and I guess you coud probably modify it to do so if you wanted. I would be afraid of effecting the accuracy of the shot though. I believe I've read on here that it is being done with the IR models with the RX18 boards - combining the muzzle flash, barrel recoil, and tank recoil with a microswitch or something so I would think that you could do the same and just replace the strobe flash in the process with the airsoft. I never cared much for the HL tank recoil though. It's to violent of an action in my opinion, and only looks right of you are shooting directly in front of the tank. I'm not a total rivetcounter, but can be a bit anal about things. A tank wouldn't recoil to the rear if it was shooting to the sides or rear of the tank. If it was a more subtle action it wouldn't looks as bad.
Good luck with the project! Oh, and consider yourself lucky! Time and money too... I never seem to have much of either to spare! You probably also have a wife that says, "Aren't you tired of playing with the same old tanks everyday. Why don't you buy yourself a new one?!"
I'm not sure why they don't combine the recoiling barrel with the tank recoil action, and I guess you coud probably modify it to do so if you wanted. I would be afraid of effecting the accuracy of the shot though. I believe I've read on here that it is being done with the IR models with the RX18 boards - combining the muzzle flash, barrel recoil, and tank recoil with a microswitch or something so I would think that you could do the same and just replace the strobe flash in the process with the airsoft. I never cared much for the HL tank recoil though. It's to violent of an action in my opinion, and only looks right of you are shooting directly in front of the tank. I'm not a total rivetcounter, but can be a bit anal about things. A tank wouldn't recoil to the rear if it was shooting to the sides or rear of the tank. If it was a more subtle action it wouldn't looks as bad.
Good luck with the project! Oh, and consider yourself lucky! Time and money too... I never seem to have much of either to spare! You probably also have a wife that says, "Aren't you tired of playing with the same old tanks everyday. Why don't you buy yourself a new one?!"
#9
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From: Denver,
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Thanks Ern...
I love the look of the asiatam hull and I like a bit of realism. I have noticed that with the metal tracks,wheels and 3:1 gearing the tiger takes on a whole other look with it's movements.....Looks heavy and meaty.....I like that. What I have been doing since I got it is fixing things that were inaccurate, like the mantlet, Commander's Cupola alignment,pistol port, painted the tracks,etc. I want to get this laser bit out of the way and then move on to metal tracks, wheels,3:1 gearing,etc,etc...
I do most of my work between 10:30 and 1am in the garage.....that way I don't get any grief. But my wife does think I spend too much time on my tanks.
BTW, I grew up near Cleveland....
Skitt
I love the look of the asiatam hull and I like a bit of realism. I have noticed that with the metal tracks,wheels and 3:1 gearing the tiger takes on a whole other look with it's movements.....Looks heavy and meaty.....I like that. What I have been doing since I got it is fixing things that were inaccurate, like the mantlet, Commander's Cupola alignment,pistol port, painted the tracks,etc. I want to get this laser bit out of the way and then move on to metal tracks, wheels,3:1 gearing,etc,etc...
I do most of my work between 10:30 and 1am in the garage.....that way I don't get any grief. But my wife does think I spend too much time on my tanks.
BTW, I grew up near Cleveland....
Skitt
#10
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Ha! I think a lot of us here are late night garage workers!
Did you already paint your tracks? On my first set I used gun blueing solution and it worked great - doesn't chip off, but wears down to the shiny metal portions after running on concrete. I just picked up some Blacken It and a local hobby shop. It's used for RR train sets to darken the rails, etc. and says it will work on any metal other than aluminum or stainless. Others here recomend it to darken tracks and if you search you will see the previous threads. It worked great on the metal tools and MG42 I got. Kind of gives them a dark metal appearance with a bit of rusty brown. Why try to try to paint metal bits to look like aged metal when they are already made of metal?? I'm going to paint the wood handles later today and will post some pictures.
Did you already paint your tracks? On my first set I used gun blueing solution and it worked great - doesn't chip off, but wears down to the shiny metal portions after running on concrete. I just picked up some Blacken It and a local hobby shop. It's used for RR train sets to darken the rails, etc. and says it will work on any metal other than aluminum or stainless. Others here recomend it to darken tracks and if you search you will see the previous threads. It worked great on the metal tools and MG42 I got. Kind of gives them a dark metal appearance with a bit of rusty brown. Why try to try to paint metal bits to look like aged metal when they are already made of metal?? I'm going to paint the wood handles later today and will post some pictures.
#11
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From: Denver,
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I painted the plastic tracks......have not got a metal track set yet. but it's on the list.... 
I am also considering making this tank waterproof.
Skitt

I am also considering making this tank waterproof.
Skitt
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From: Liverpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Skitt
in the UK we have shops called Poundland where yoy can get things for £1(about $1.50).
I got myself a laser spirit level, striped it down and put the laser in my Tiger I turret.
you can solder it on the main board.
It works pritty dawn good.
http://rcuvideos.com/video/Laser-in-turret-mantle
in the UK we have shops called Poundland where yoy can get things for £1(about $1.50).
I got myself a laser spirit level, striped it down and put the laser in my Tiger I turret.
you can solder it on the main board.
It works pritty dawn good.
http://rcuvideos.com/video/Laser-in-turret-mantle



