HL PANZER IV reliability info wanted
09-28-2009, 12:55 PM
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HL PANZER IV reliability info wanted
Looking into some conversions with the Panzer IV. How well do they hold up on the rough terrain? Craig, Have you tested yours?
Also, how is the quality of the PIII / PIV Mato metal tracks? Do the pins pop out like the older stuff? I need a sturdy machine for our field. Any info would be appreciated.
I've owned other HL stuff and most of the electronics will be gutted.
Darrin
Also, how is the quality of the PIII / PIV Mato metal tracks? Do the pins pop out like the older stuff? I need a sturdy machine for our field. Any info would be appreciated.
I've owned other HL stuff and most of the electronics will be gutted.
Darrin
09-28-2009, 11:05 PM
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RE: HL PANZER IV reliability info wanted
one suggestion i will make on the panzer iv is that you reinforce the hull sides they tend to come out of the box warped to buggery and metal tracks will only make things worse
i used 2mm alu plate the lower hull and 1mm angle for the rear it is now built like a brick ****house cant wait for it to be finished so i can test it
i used 2mm alu plate the lower hull and 1mm angle for the rear it is now built like a brick ****house cant wait for it to be finished so i can test it
09-29-2009, 05:11 AM
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RE: HL PANZER IV reliability info wanted
Darrin,
I have not yet tested mine as the project got shelved for a short while. I have 3-1 gear reductions (all metal) in mine as well as all metal suspension and tracks (tracks seem pretty good - pins are tight). In the process of converting all the electronics over to Tamiya Tiger I DMD and MFU, but still using the HL speaker and traverse gear, with a servo set up for elevation and contemplating the Asiatam recoil.
My hull was pretty straight, right out of the box. I added a new floor plate and some internal reinforcement and stiffening ribs out of styrene after removing the stock molded battery box, but seem to have little to no torsional flex in the lower hull even without the upper hull attached. In fact I'm only planning on using magnets to hold the upper hull onto the lower. The entire tank seems pretty stout to me, and with the added weight of the metal it feels very sturdy.
Time will tell though the DAK field can be rougher on the tanks than the SCAT field. We don't have the elevation change you do, but we have lots of pea gravel, hard pack, and some pretty harsh drop offs. I'm very happy with mine thus far!
Craig (Squid)
I have not yet tested mine as the project got shelved for a short while. I have 3-1 gear reductions (all metal) in mine as well as all metal suspension and tracks (tracks seem pretty good - pins are tight). In the process of converting all the electronics over to Tamiya Tiger I DMD and MFU, but still using the HL speaker and traverse gear, with a servo set up for elevation and contemplating the Asiatam recoil.
My hull was pretty straight, right out of the box. I added a new floor plate and some internal reinforcement and stiffening ribs out of styrene after removing the stock molded battery box, but seem to have little to no torsional flex in the lower hull even without the upper hull attached. In fact I'm only planning on using magnets to hold the upper hull onto the lower. The entire tank seems pretty stout to me, and with the added weight of the metal it feels very sturdy.
Time will tell though the DAK field can be rougher on the tanks than the SCAT field. We don't have the elevation change you do, but we have lots of pea gravel, hard pack, and some pretty harsh drop offs. I'm very happy with mine thus far!
Craig (Squid)
