hi am posting this here as rctankwarfare is still out of action :/
but anyway ive been planning to build a super tiger, get a tiger upper and lower hull and vastly upgrade it im sure loads of you have already done this so i hope that someone can help me with this project.
will have around £100 to do this, i have estimated to cost around £100 after looking at tankzone and ebay prices for parts needed.
metal tracks, metal gearboxes, metal sprockets and idlers, metal suspension bars ect. anything else i need? i might in future change the board and further electronics, im not gona go IR as im not a fan or it tbh, might try a strumtiger instead of a tiger :P cheers

a asiatam metal hull would be a pretty good upgrade to that.. it has metal suspension arms and tension bars... also tensioner. but those tensioners tend to bend.. you might modify it.. like i did to mine..
daryl

HI

Have a look at Bevsbargins on E-Bay

I Got myself an HL S&S M26 Pershing, cost and P&P for £28.00.

It had the 18 board and the new smoker (the one you can take apart) in it.

It came with NO BATTERY or CHARGER and NO GUARANTY it would work.

but when i put a battery in it, it worked great, nothing wrong with it.

HMMM you are building a “Super Tiger” and have £100 for upgrades, unfortunately £100 wont buy you much in the way of upgrades

100 quid is pushing it[], metal reinforcement for the chassis and metal gearboxes are a start but you'd be better off sticking with plastic tracks for now and saving for better quality metal ones than buy the really cheap stuff - one of my sets effectively came for free with the tank, and after examining them closely I found there was no knurling on the pins [:@] and so they have already worked loose after little more than 5 or 6 hours running [:@]
(just as well that I need impact late model tracks anyway eh...? )

Check what kind of axles you have on your chassis before you buy metal swing arms - if you have the later screw in axles, then you can't use the metal arms because the hole in them is too big for the screw. In my experience the screw in axles are less likely to split the suspension arms and don't need replacing (I have 2 Tigers with this style).
If you have the older pin type, you should get the metal arms, as I'll guarranty the chimp who assembled the tank split at least 1 arm when pounding the axles home [:@] - I have 3 Tiger chassis like this, each with an average of 3 cracked arms! 1 had the asiatam hull fitted (which is way out of your budget), 1 had the upgrades you are asking about now, and the other got repaired with the left over arms (and will probably get the asiatam hull in due course).

If you don't mind doing some work to make them fit, Forgebear has some very reasonably priced brass gearboxes that would be better than the HL 'mystery metal' ones. Failing that you could try contacting RCCommand and seeing if you could get hold of some of their steel gears. My only reservations are that the standard ratio boxes makes the Tiger too fast (it runs about the same speed as it would with the stock HL Nylon gears) and the 3:1's are long lead time items at the moment. But they are a direct replacement for the stock HL gearboxes.

I think that should get you up and running. The asiatam hull is nice, but will cost you nearly your entire budget - and the extra weight will probably cause you to struggle on grass with just the standard nylon gearboxes (tho I haven't tried glueing the clutches like some people here recommend)

Anybody else got ideas?

well after looking at the parts i want on ebay and tankzone £100 should hopefully cover it all
i was looking at the asiantam but it was way too much really :/ oh right okay thanks for that! how can you tell if the tracks are cheap or decent? n yeah ive looked at forgebears stuff it does look goood, i really want a tank which can easily over come grass and heavy off road places so what main upgrades do i need for that?

Well, ok now that you describe what you want to do with it I'm not so sure you are going to get what you want

The mods I've listed are a start point that would make the tank stiffer and stop the wheels falling off after 10 mins. I would (and do) run and battle with that kind set up on in a typical backyard type of area with long-ish grass and/or light dirt.

However, if you mean by that you want it to go charging off thru open fields and into the woods like its some kind of off road buggy [X(] then I can can assure you that you will be dissapointed with a tank that cost 100 pounds. you will need to spend well over that ammount on the electronics alone as the the standard HL stuff will not take that kind of beating. A heavily modified tamiya tank is about the only thing that will help you there I'm afraid, and they aren't cheap.

Some more information would be useful here so that we can better help you
Mart

Quality tracks = Asiatam or Impact. Cheaper stuff is Heng Long - of all my tanks that have metal tracks and more than a couple of hours running on them, the only one that hasn't suffered loose track pins is the one running on an its impact set. The Heng Long stuff isn't necessaryly bad, just so long as you remember to watch for the pins working out.