Flyn Chris

I am having a problem setting the T-08 DMD Control unit on my Tamiya KV-2. I using a Mode 2 Spektrum Dx6i radio with the AR6200 receiver. I want to control the tank with the right stick and the turret/gun with the left. I have the DMD plugged into the receiver as follows;
DMD AR6200
Channel 4 rudder
Channel 2 elevator
Channel 1 aileron
Channel 3 throttle

When I power up both the DMD and transmitter, I have a solid orange light on the AR6200, a blinking green light operation indicator on the MF-06, and blinking orange lights on both drive indicators. I push the set button but the lights don’t change, I try doing set up any way and nothing happens to lights. Please any help would be appreciated.

gorehound

Hi

Sorry if this is an obvious question but have you done the binding between the transmitter and receiver fitted in the tank? The Tamiya MFU will work with a DX6i as I used one before fitting the Futaba 2.4Ghz system. There was a thread a while ago about using this setup that had links to other useful sites. Added the forum link below so check it out to see if it can help you.


[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5560157/anchors_5560157/mpage_1/key_spektrum/anchor/tm.htm#5560157[/link]


cheers
Gorehound

Flyn Chris

Hi Gorehand, thanks for the link. For the radio, as soon as I turned the transmitter on, the AR6200 receiver showed a steady orange light. I did try the binding procedure but I notiched no change in the light in the receiver so I assume it came already binded from the factory. My first Spektrum so I'm unsure if there is more to it then that. I did use the monitor status to make sure when I moved the sticks that it showed something there, and the arrows moved from center to about 3/4 to the left or right.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Yep, sounds like you haven't bound it. You'll need to bind it. Here's a quick and dirty method to bind the 6i (for some reason, the 6i manual covers binding in a very confusing manner, it was much simpler in the dx6 manual). Make sure your tank is on a safety block, so that if the treads start, they just spin freely. (most use a 2x4 or a foam block). Power off the tank and the tx. Now, install the bind plug on the battery terminal of the rx. Turn tank power to on. Press the trainer button on the tx, and turn on the tx. You'll see the rx light start blinking. Hold the trainer button until you get a solid light and then you can let off. When you get the solid light, its bound. You can turn the power off, and remove the bind plug from the tx. Then proceed with your normal MF unit setup per the Tam. instructions. Another tip, make sure you adjust your overtravel on the tx after the setup on the tank is complete. You'll need to adjust overtravel for the throttle stick (assuming you want to use it to fire the guns) to 125% for up and down.

FYI, I usually sell off the 6200 rx and the little satellite receiver that the 6i comes with (worth about 65 bucks on ebay) and purchase a AR6100e for about 40 bucks. Works the same, the 6200 is just a higher power rx than the 6100, and is in high demand by rc airplane flyers. The 6100 has range that exceeds any distance I've ever driven my tanks.

Good luck.

Pzjgr

Once you have the receiver bound then you can setup the receiver so you drive with the right and control turret with the left (All my Tamiya Tanks are set up this way). Ch.1 goes to Ale Ch.2 goes to elev Ch.3 goes to Thro and Ch.4 goes to Rudd on receiver. I also use the AR6200.

gorehound

Hi

I would agree with Jeff on using a 6100 or 6100e receiver (the e one has end connectors with the other has connectors on top). The 6200 is excellent and I use these in my helis but for a tank they are overkill and pricey. Also the 6100(e) takes up a lot less room and in some tanks space is at a premium.

If you try rebinding going exactly by the instructions in Jeff's thread and it still does not work let us know. I have a spare 6200 not fitted to anything at present and can pop it in my Jagdpanther to remind me what needed done with these as it is all opened up at present.

cheers
Gorehound

Flyn Chris

Thanks everyone for their help, I tried rebinding as instructed above. The Ar6200 shows a steady organe light when I power on the DMD, I have bind chip plugged into the pwr/bind plug on the rx power on the the tx while pulling on the trainer switch, the tx does a steady beep and bind show on the LCD screen. At no time did I notich a change on the led light on the rx. I have a couple of photos below, the first is power off and shows the testing hookup in the Tamiya manual. The second photo in power on, I was able get all of the lighs on when I toke the photo but as I stated above they two orange lights blink togeather on the DMD and a green light blinks on the MF. pushing the the set button makes no difference to the leds on the DMD. Do I need to hold for a certian length on time?

Pzjgr

I've found that the Y-cable can be loose even when hooked up to a battery, if you have two batteries then hook up one to the DMD and one to the MFU and try to rebind. Also make sure the batteries are fully charged. When binding and successful you'll get a solid orange light but also you will get the tank starting sound.

Just noticed you don't have the bind plug in, that hooks up to the batt. plug on the receiver then with the tank off and transmitter off and the bind plug in the batt. receiver slot turn on tank and on transmitter hold the trainer switch up and turn on transmitter. If the light on the receiver turns solid and you get the tank startup/run sound your good to go and remove the bind plug. Otherwise I don't know what else to tell you.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Orange lights on the MF means no radio signal to the electronics.   If the batteries aren't low, and the Y harness is secure, then I'd suggest isolating the receiver and testing it.  To do so, unplug everything from the receiver.  Plug a 4.8v battery pack into the battery terminal on the rx, and then use a spare servo plugged into an open channel make sure my rx is working.   

Flyn Chris

Thanks guys, I tried two fresh batteries by-passing the Y-connector and still no-joy. I guess I'll have to buy a battery pack and server to see if the TX/RX works and take it from there.

gorehound

Hi

It sounds as it is not bound properly yet. When you do the binding you need to hold the trainer button forward on the tranny as well. I have put a link into a vid showing how to do it. It is on a heli but it makes no difference apart from you have an on switch on the mfu rather than a battery plugged in like on the helis - oh, and you don't need a gyro on the tanks . Can you take a look and check if this is how it was with you.

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOAz4umypTQ[/link]

cheers
Gorehound

Flyn Chris

Thanks for the link Gorehound, I did exactly as shown, binder plug in rx in pwr/bind slot, power on tank and rx, then while holding the trainer button I turn on tx. I have a steady light on AR6200 main body, I see no light on the smaller satellite portion. The voltage shows 5.4V on the TX screen.

Jeff, I show slow blinking green light on the MF when power is on.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Chris,

I'd try to isolate the problem as a radio problem or a Tamiya electronic problem.  Try the servo test as mentioned above to check the radio and rx out.  Try running a self test on the Tamiya electronics.  Check your dmd manual, and you should see how to do a self test.

Flyn Chris

Hi Jeff, I did the self test and from what I gather, I have a bad DMD, when I moverd switch 3 from the far left to far right, I got an engine idle sound, slowley flashing lights & MG, and alternating green & red on the MF indicator light. On the T-08 no indicator lights and no motion to any of the motors. I did do a reset to the T-08 and after a bit I got alteranting red & green lights but still no control. I shut off power and repowered the T-08 but all I got was the slow blinking orange lights with no change when I press the set button.

Alan123

Hello,

I use this gear in my tanks and it is ok. One tip that may help. Check to make sure that your servo leads are plugged in the right way around. The black cable should be facing out and the white cable should be facing inboard. I cannot see from the pics if the cables are correct however it is an easy thing to overlook, I have done it many times.

The black outside cable is the negative and should go on the terminal marked with a minus (-).

It might also be that the KV1 DMDs have the safety setting on them like the Pershing where the motors will not turn until you have pushed the throttle slider all the way back, then pulled the stick all the way back to get it out of electronic neutral gear.

Also set you tank up just like Tamiya say to otherwise you will have trouble with firing your MG and Main Gun.

Cheers

Alan

pcomm1

Start all over. Remove the DMD units from the tank hull, disconnect the motors, but have the speaker plugged in per the Tamiya instructions.

Reset your radio and DMD units per the manuals, charge your battery and connect the receiver as follows:

For tank throttle and steering on the right stick.
And turret – gun operation on the left stick.
Connect the DMD to the receiver as follows:
rudder = ch 1
throttle = ch 2
gun = ch 3
turret = ch 4

Airplane to tank rc radio system manual translation of terms:
rudder = turret rotation
throttle = throttle
elevator = gun elevation – gun firing – machine gun firing
aileron = steering

Pzjgr

Alan's right, I completely forgot I had the same issue as you with my Panther. All I did was reverse (turn around the plugs) the leads going into the receiver. It's hard for me to describe, but basically where the plugs go into the receiver just reverse the direction....you can see on one side of the plug metal leads, they are all facing one direction, just turn them around to face the other direction. Hope this helps, it worked for me.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Chris, Sounds like you're making good progress.   Try what Alan123,  Pcomm1 and Pzjgr suggest, they have experience with Tamiya and Spektrum combinations.  Remember, that if its a bad DMD, Tamiya will replace it with no hassle. 

Flyn Chris

WOOHOO! I turned around the plugs so black is away from the rx and white inboard. I was able to bind and then I got engine start up!!!!
The plugs on the DMD and a fin on the white side so after removing them, I figured that portion would go to the outside. There are no polarity markings on the receiver so I had a 50/50 chance on getting it wrong and I did.

Okay before I go any further, I did reset the DMD.
I have Channel 4 (Turret) in rudder, channel 2 (throttle) in elev, channel 1 (rudder) in aleron and channel 3 (main gun) in throttle. I want right stick tank control. When doing the set-up on the DMD, do I follow the instructions exactly, left stick up and down, then left stick left and right, then on the the right stick, or do I do the right stick first because of my layout?

Thank you guys, you sure saved me a lot of headaches in helping me.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

Chris,

I don't believe it matters.  I've done it lots of different ways, and in no particular order.  I'm pretty sure that the dmd setup simply sets the endpoints for the stick movements. 

Make sure to adjust the overtravel on the throttle stick (that would be the left stick) to 125% up and down to make the gun and the mg fire properly.  Make sure the overtravel is at 100% (factory default) while you program the dmd, and then do the radio.  I've had a few headaches with no gun firing and this was the problem every time.  

Flyn Chris

All righty then, I have the DMD setup but I’m still having issues, first of all I once again reset the DMD before I did the setup with all travel settings set to 100% and trim to center position. I have hull MG firing with the throttle kill button, travel on throttle set to 125%, no main gun firing (flash or sound) though, no matter how fast I slap the stick up. I tried adjusting the M. Gun setting trim on the DMD to no effect. I tried moving trim up all the way on the left stick but still no main gun fire. Main gun does flash in test mode (no sound). While moving the right stick (throttle) up or down, I get engine sound that goes up/down proportionally as I move the throttle but the motors don’t do anything, I do get brake light in brake mode. I can not turn headlight on, it does work in test mode even with left stick trim set to max right.

I tried to figure out how to use the flap switch for main gun, but the Spektrum for dummies showing how to is for Dx6 not Dx6i I didn’t see anything on the setup screen that looked like the pictures. I have new freshly charged batteries for tank but that doesn’t seem to make a difference. On a good note the engine sounds coming from the speaker are outstanding!

Pzjgr

Ok, all my tanks are set the same, drive on right stick, control turret on left. This is how I set the left stick to fire main gun by throwing the left stick all the way up and machine gun by throwing the left stick down...first make sure that all setting on transmitter are set to default (undo Jeff's settings), then reset DMD and go through setting up the sticks...up/down/left/right. Once that's all done this is how I set mine up, on the transmitter go to your settings screen, then to sub trim, on Thro your going to increase to +55 (roll the roller to the right), once set to +55 with tank on throw the left stick all the way up....it should fire. The machine gun is easy, exit the screen and on the left stick vertical trim set it all the way to the bottom...now when you throw the stick down the machine gun should fire. This is my mickey mouse way but it works.

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

I'm interested to see how this works.   Let us know...

Flyn Chris

Okay I'll give a try, what about the no light control or no motor control?

ksoc

Been a while since I programed my Tamiya Pershing with the DX6i, but I do remember referencing this thread. Hope it may shed some light....

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_73...tm.htm#7304705