3:1 Gearbox
#2
rccommand
http://www.rccommand.com/asiatam_upgrades.php
http://www.rccommand.com/Tank%20Upgrade%20Parts.php
or rctankwars.com from phil
dary
http://www.rccommand.com/asiatam_upgrades.php
http://www.rccommand.com/Tank%20Upgrade%20Parts.php
or rctankwars.com from phil
dary
#3
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From: Gaylord,
MI
I was going to get the one from rc command but the way things are going with themright now, I'm not going to.
Matomart has this one but they said it would not fit in the Panzer IV. But yet they say it fits in the Panzer III. Dont the Pzr III and Pzr IVhave the same engine mount?
http://matomart.com/prodview.php?p=550
Matomart has this one but they said it would not fit in the Panzer IV. But yet they say it fits in the Panzer III. Dont the Pzr III and Pzr IVhave the same engine mount?
http://matomart.com/prodview.php?p=550
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From: St Catharines,
ON, CANADA
I put one of the new 3:1 Matorro gear boxes in my Stug III. The tank's motor mounts were different then the holes of the gear box. I had to use milliput to secure them.
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From: Gaylord,
MI
ORIGINAL: swathdiver
If the mounts are different, look for the Asiatam version from our friends in Britain on ebay.
If the mounts are different, look for the Asiatam version from our friends in Britain on ebay.
#10
What is meant by "If the mounts are different"? Are we just speaking of the holes in the floor of the hull? Why not just re-drill?
milliput? Really?
milliput? Really?
#13
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From: Escondido,
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ORIGINAL: Wehrmacht39
I guess I'm just going to get the Mato gearbox. I'll make it fit.[img][/img]
I guess I'm just going to get the Mato gearbox. I'll make it fit.[img][/img]
The Blitz
RCtankWars.com
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From: Cameron Park,
CA
Just finished installation of Asiatam gearboxes in my Stug III. With advice from the Blitz and a little of my own devices it looks like I now have a pretty robust install. Items to note:
a) The holes in the bottom plate of asiatam gearbox only line up with two of the small threaded standoffs in the lower hull of the Stug III. These standoffs are about 0.250" tall. There is a third through hole through a small "ear" on the inboard side of the gearbox, but no stand off at that location. To remedy this Blitz recommended those small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications. These standoffs have a small internal thread on one side and an external thread on the other side, and are just about the right height. Cut the external thread off with a hack saw and file flush. Using mating screw insert thru bottom plate of gearbox and thread into standoff. Purchase "Plastic Welder" adhesive (I bought it at Autozone in California). Apply the two part adhesive to the bottom side of standoff and screw remaining holes into plastic standoffs for alignment and clamping while adhesive cures (up to 24 hrs)
b) The bottom plate on the Asiatam gearbox is just a hair thicker than the HL gearbox plate, such that the stock plastic self tapping screws don't really bite in. The stock screws are 4-20 x 1/4" long thread forming screws. To remedy this I bought 5/16" long screws from McMaster Carr. What an improvement! It can now take a 76mm ap direct hit without coming loose and the output shaft is nice and square with the hull.
c) Last thing. The notch taken out of the Asiatam output shaft has just little less material remove than the HL gearbox ouputshaft. Its about 0.020" less material, such that the sprocket (plastic or metal) won't go on. I took a file to the Asiatam ouput shaft and removed material little by little til I got the sprocket to go on.
Hope this helps
a) The holes in the bottom plate of asiatam gearbox only line up with two of the small threaded standoffs in the lower hull of the Stug III. These standoffs are about 0.250" tall. There is a third through hole through a small "ear" on the inboard side of the gearbox, but no stand off at that location. To remedy this Blitz recommended those small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications. These standoffs have a small internal thread on one side and an external thread on the other side, and are just about the right height. Cut the external thread off with a hack saw and file flush. Using mating screw insert thru bottom plate of gearbox and thread into standoff. Purchase "Plastic Welder" adhesive (I bought it at Autozone in California). Apply the two part adhesive to the bottom side of standoff and screw remaining holes into plastic standoffs for alignment and clamping while adhesive cures (up to 24 hrs)
b) The bottom plate on the Asiatam gearbox is just a hair thicker than the HL gearbox plate, such that the stock plastic self tapping screws don't really bite in. The stock screws are 4-20 x 1/4" long thread forming screws. To remedy this I bought 5/16" long screws from McMaster Carr. What an improvement! It can now take a 76mm ap direct hit without coming loose and the output shaft is nice and square with the hull.
c) Last thing. The notch taken out of the Asiatam output shaft has just little less material remove than the HL gearbox ouputshaft. Its about 0.020" less material, such that the sprocket (plastic or metal) won't go on. I took a file to the Asiatam ouput shaft and removed material little by little til I got the sprocket to go on.
Hope this helps
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From: Gaylord,
MI
This will help alot, thanks. But I dont quite know what you mean by (small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications). could you find a picture of one?
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From: Seattle, OR
ORIGINAL: fsciorelli
Just finished installation of Asiatam gearboxes in my Stug III. With advice from the Blitz and a little of my own devices it looks like I now have a pretty robust install. Items to note:
a) The holes in the bottom plate of asiatam gearbox only line up with two of the small threaded standoffs in the lower hull of the Stug III. These standoffs are about 0.250" tall. There is a third through hole through a small "ear" on the inboard side of the gearbox, but no stand off at that location. To remedy this Blitz recommended those small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications. These standoffs have a small internal thread on one side and an external thread on the other side, and are just about the right height. Cut the external thread off with a hack saw and file flush. Using mating screw insert thru bottom plate of gearbox and thread into standoff. Purchase "Plastic Welder" adhesive (I bought it at Autozone in California). Apply the two part adhesive to the bottom side of standoff and screw remaining holes into plastic standoffs for alignment and clamping while adhesive cures (up to 24 hrs)
b) The bottom plate on the Asiatam gearbox is just a hair thicker than the HL gearbox plate, such that the stock plastic self tapping screws don't really bite in. The stock screws are 4-20 x 14" long thread forming screws. To remedy this I bought 5/16" long screws from McMaster Carr. What an improvement! It can now take a 76mm ap direct hit without coming loose and the output shaft is nice and square with the hull.
c) Last thing. The notch taken out of the Asiatam output shaft has just little less material remove than the HL gearbox ouputshaft. Its about 0.020" less material, such that the sprocket (plastic or metal) won't go on. I took a file to the Asiatam ouput shaft and removed material little by little til I got the sprocket to go on.
Hope this helps
Just finished installation of Asiatam gearboxes in my Stug III. With advice from the Blitz and a little of my own devices it looks like I now have a pretty robust install. Items to note:
a) The holes in the bottom plate of asiatam gearbox only line up with two of the small threaded standoffs in the lower hull of the Stug III. These standoffs are about 0.250" tall. There is a third through hole through a small "ear" on the inboard side of the gearbox, but no stand off at that location. To remedy this Blitz recommended those small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications. These standoffs have a small internal thread on one side and an external thread on the other side, and are just about the right height. Cut the external thread off with a hack saw and file flush. Using mating screw insert thru bottom plate of gearbox and thread into standoff. Purchase "Plastic Welder" adhesive (I bought it at Autozone in California). Apply the two part adhesive to the bottom side of standoff and screw remaining holes into plastic standoffs for alignment and clamping while adhesive cures (up to 24 hrs)
b) The bottom plate on the Asiatam gearbox is just a hair thicker than the HL gearbox plate, such that the stock plastic self tapping screws don't really bite in. The stock screws are 4-20 x 14" long thread forming screws. To remedy this I bought 5/16" long screws from McMaster Carr. What an improvement! It can now take a 76mm ap direct hit without coming loose and the output shaft is nice and square with the hull.
c) Last thing. The notch taken out of the Asiatam output shaft has just little less material remove than the HL gearbox ouputshaft. Its about 0.020" less material, such that the sprocket (plastic or metal) won't go on. I took a file to the Asiatam ouput shaft and removed material little by little til I got the sprocket to go on.
Hope this helps
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Hex-STANDOFFS...item58836c6394
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ORIGINAL: Wehrmacht39
This will help alot, thanks. But I dont quite know what you mean by (small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications). could you find a picture of one?
This will help alot, thanks. But I dont quite know what you mean by (small brass hexagonal standoffs used in desktop pc applications). could you find a picture of one?
Also if you search fleabay for standoffs you get a good idea, they typically are used to attach cables to computers so they dont come out, like desktops to monitors
#18
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From: St Catharines,
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milliput allows you to adjust the setting of the gear box. once it hardens its not moving (hence making sure it is set properly (true and straight and set out far enough for the drive sprocket to work
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From: Cameron Park,
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taoJ,
Only possible problem I see with the standoffs you've found is the height. 10 mm is about 0.400". Thats probably too tall and would have to be cut anyway. I'll try to take some photos of my install tonight and post
Only possible problem I see with the standoffs you've found is the height. 10 mm is about 0.400". Thats probably too tall and would have to be cut anyway. I'll try to take some photos of my install tonight and post
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From: Seattle, OR
ORIGINAL: fsciorelli
taoJ,
Only possible problem I see with the standoffs you've found is the height. 10 mm is about 0.400". Thats probably too tall and would have to be cut anyway. I'll try to take some photos of my install tonight and post
taoJ,
Only possible problem I see with the standoffs you've found is the height. 10 mm is about 0.400". Thats probably too tall and would have to be cut anyway. I'll try to take some photos of my install tonight and post




