guys, I decided to get an airbrush and was wondering what you all recommend for these tanks. I want something that is versatile and easy to use. I really don't know much about them as far as size of needles I would need and single or benefits of options like a single or double action brush.I know alot of you guys are using them and I want to buy something that is going to work right and last a while...I would like to get something relatively inexpensive if possible. Thanks guys.</p>

Hey Joe, you'll probably get alot of recommendations. Here's a previous thread with much of my recommendations. If you need any further info, you know how to reach me!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_94...tm.htm#9422524</p>

I have the Paasche double action VL and it is magnificent tool. It is simple to use, easy to clean and user friendly. DO not use it on your models until you have cut your teeth by practicing on a few old toys or garage sale/old models. Buying a used outfit from a reliable seller is always a good alternative. If you have a air compressor in your garage you can skip buying a smaller one and use a refillable air tank and regulator. Water based paint are a sinch to clean too.

Here is a link or two.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT


Bob, thecommandernj

Hi the testors brushes with the removable tips are the simplest and much more easy to clean than the standard airbrush because the whole airbrush don't get filled with paint like other types of air brushes do.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ztek+air+brush

Anyone have any info on regulators and moisture seperators? I need this airbrush thing explained to me like I am a three year old. I know the difference between single or double action, but that's it. I don't even know which is better for this work...and I don't know what size tips/needles I need. I was lookign at the Paasche TG-SET on http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=97. I don't know if this has everything I need or do I have to buy other attachments for heavier work? I hate not knowing something....teach me.</p>

Hi if you never painted with a airbrush get the aztek as you can use it as a single action or double action.... single action is you push the button down and with a knob you ajust how the paint sprays out and you then paint and double action is you push down the button as mush as you wish for less or more air and you pull back the buttion for how much paint will flow out the brush.

You need a moisture trap and filter system.

What kind of compressor are you working with? If your working with a compressor that doesn't incorporate a holding tank.....you could probably do with out the moisture trap.

The regulator can be bought from most hardware stores.( WHOAH!That link was huge! Look up lowes.com kobalt mini regulator) Most regulators now incorporate a moisture trap and usually exclusive to airbrushing.

Dual action is best for fine detail and line work, but can be expanded for small coat work such as these tanks by either patience or using a larger nozzle and more blunt needle like a 0.5, 0.7 and so forth.

Single action is usually best for coating, blending, and maybe okay detail work....like camo pattern and highlighting.

Also, to considersiphon feed or gravity feed.

Siphon fed airbrushes allowlarger volumes of paint....but you don't get to use every drop.

Gravity fed airbrushes allow you to use every drop, but lacks significantly in volumes of paint.

Both are available with either types of airbrushes. Gravity is usually exclusive to detailing, except large paint guns used in varnishing/automotive/tanning. Siphon is most commonly found in the single action which is one among a fewother reasons why it's best for coating.
</p>

So basically both have their lace with this hobby? In a perfet world it's best to have one for coating/basecoats, and the other for the detailing? Thanks guys. I'm sorry to ask so many questions, but this is why I never bought an airbrush...seems like there are so many variations, I never knew which one would suit my needs....

Get a testors aztek it's both types in one.
I think Bob may have seen my brush when he came over and seen my airbrush booth.

Joe, if you want versatility go with a no name brand and a dual action. These tanks aren't large enough to worry about having two airbrushes, although it is ideal if your looking for quicker production.

Paasche is great, don't get me wrong. But no name brands work just as well. You could easily find a dual action under 20 bucks or maybe a dollar more.

Even the Aztec is decent, from what I remember 17 or so years ago. (just too toyish for my liking and expensive for a plastic airbrush, but it does come with alot)

The most important think of airbrushing is the compressor, wouldn't matter how well your airbrush is made or capable of. If the air supply is crap, so will be your results.

Ok, thanks for the insight. Now how about telling me what compressor to go with. A friend gave me a testors compressor model # AC55. I don't think this thing is high end. lol. He just said to take it and try it out, but I don't know what pressure it is capable of or any specs on it. I don't want to waste my money on junk and when I get this going I want t to actually be my fault if it doesn't come out nice..not the airbrush/compressor set-up. I hate ebay for these types of things and other websites have such a huge variety that it's easy to get confused...You guys are always the ones I rely on. Thanks.

Hey Joe,

That compressor has a max capability of 35psi. Which means it working psi rating is roughly 28-30psi. This is fine for the work we do.
It won't push automotive paint but that's of no concern......or is it?lol

Most airbrushes require a working flow rating of 25-60 psi. What this means is, 25psi representing the viscosity of water to 60psi the viscosity of a somewhat thick lacquer based paint.

If one day you really want to step it up, you can mate that compressor with a holding tank. It doesn't have enough psi to upgrade it to a 3-5 gallon tank, but it will work with a 1 gallon.
Why have a holding tank you say???

1)consistent air flow with no spike in the air current.
2)Less racket!
3)Less wear on the compressor.

But as stated, with a holding tank. You will need to consider a moisture trap. No big deal, that's like 5-10 bucks.

If you don't want to deal with ebay. Try this site http://www.tcpglobal.com/
The Master brand airbrushes are Iwata knock offs. TCP global has taken these knock offs and stamped them as "Master"
But you can find these on ebay for less then what they charge....but ebay or it's sellers are not known to follow through with their warranties. TCP has fantastic warranties and in most cases, when there is an issue. They just send you a new one right out with out bothering on a return.

Great to know brother...One last question for you I found this setup and was wondering if it will be a quality piece. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXVDD8&amp;P=7 If you say it's good, I'll buy. If not, I'll check out the site you sent me in the link.

That's a good airbrush. Thought you wanted to go cheap!! lol

If you can spring for it, go for it. You'll be happy with it. I think you've been bedazzled by the cool looking trim and accents!lol

This is Paasche's attempt to com up to date and give Iwata a run. The cut away handle is normally a trademark of Iwata, which is to help for easy cleaning and ease of limiting the throw back button.
I still wouldn't purchase that from towerhobbies. TCP has that same set with the three nozzles for 115.29

But, before you press that purchase now button. Look at their master brands. I promise you the performance and build will impress ya!</p>

Tony, I thought that was cheap!! lol. I saw one last night for 400 bucks and said oh...I can't...no, really do not buy it...lol  I am willing ot spend 100 bucks though...But the compressor and moisture traps are something I also want to buy. I like to do things right...sort of...lol

No one want's to listen to me hear I paint tanks RC bodies and slot cars ... I have a badger cresendo and i have the metal aztek and after seeing how much easy it is to clean the aztek my badger duel action i never hardly use it anymore....
And if you are going with a pasch of that kind you show I would go for Iwata they are the best airbrushes out.

Well, a hundred bucks is cheap for an Iwata! But we're not looking for name brands here!Unlike HL vs Tamiya debates. This my friend is black and white.A $400 dollar airbrush and a $20 dollar airbrush will produce the exact same results in the right hands. Now, I use "right hands" loosely. No airbrush will make you a miracle worker just by depressing the button.
Various airbrushes from various companies will be constructed with various materials. I've tested and own quite a few.

The ones you can get at harbor freight are aluminum....cheap and light. But, I've owned it for 6-7 years and it still looks brand new.
Master brand is made of brass and maybe some steel components.....like Iwata and most of Paasche's brands. Badger too has come up, but some of their brushes utilize plastic...mostly in the handle, but their lower brandisalmost all plastic.

But, if your willing to spring for the Paasche Millennium, go for it. I'm just telling you from experience. I can paint you something with my sons cheap Badger 250 and my Iwata 4208 and you'll have a difficult time telling the difference.

Hey guys, not trying to starta  devbate at all. I am new to this and just want something that is quality and will/should last for a while. I know that a few guys have mentioned Paasche as a descent brush and that's what i'm looking for. I don't expect to buy it and instantly be able to do nice work. I will need to learn teh tricks and in and outs of using the thing for sure, but i will invest the time, believe it. I know in the hands of a pro, they can make anything work well...I am not that guy with airbrushes...I can however amke your Mustang run about 5/10th's faster in the quarter mile just by being in the driver's seat

LOL! Well come on down! We have a race way here in my town! I need someone to represent my stang! Tired of getting whipped by ricers and sleepers!lol

Oh, hell no, we cannot have that my brother. Those boys need to know that the only place for a weedwacker is in the shed. I did a Shelby for a customer about 2 years ago. Long tubes, full exhaust, 4:30 gears, hurst shifter, and a Kenne Bell blower. The car made 735 rwhp on a street tune. On the test drive I had a honda next to me at the light revving his lawnmower at me. I snapped the throttle in the Shelby and nearly blew his windows out of that thing. He did the right thing and hung his head in shame as I drove away LOLOL. That was a fun test drive!!

dedmonwakin is correct you can have the best airbrush but if you do not know how to mix the consistancy of the paint for the type of work you are wanting to do you won't get ny good results.. or tipe or needle size choice to.

WOW WOW WOW! 735 HP to the road!! Hope you chained that tranny down! Holly molly!

Well, the mixing of paints is something else I wanted to ask about. I read a few posts and it seems everyone has their own opinions on that...Any advice is appreciated though. Hint Hint...
Yep 735...belive eit or not, I am used to a lot more. One of my buddies Mustangs had a built 331 with a 100mm tubro and all the truimmings. That car made 1200 rwhp...while yet another maniac I hang with has a notch with a BB chevy FI, 106mm turbo making 1500+ to the tires and its a street car...actually drives it to local shows. It is a conisitent low 8 second car at the track.

That is insane bud. My Stang is Stock stage 3 Roush. Never invested anything more to it....and not likely that I ever will now that I found tanks!!!! Any extra money will go towards that now!lol


Mixing of paints. Kind of a complicated subject because of the various types of paints used, techniques and most of all preferences. Is there really a right way? No...not really. As long as you don't alter it's ability to properly adhere...which is adding too much water or thinning solution. (for instance, using an acrylic wash if you've ever done this. Notice that you can practically rub it off after it's fully dried....try this with uncut acrylics. This means the surface tension has been compromised.)

I use acrylics for my sculptures. Sometimes I branch off to enamels and oils, but for the most part acrylics.

My favorite type of airbrush fluid is not exactly intended for airbrushes....but should be.
It's acrylic permanent ink. This has been what I've used for the past 8 or so years. Liquitex and FW are the top makers of it. FW being the top brand for acrylic inks. The viscosity is like that of water, but hue is not lost. Rather expensive per bottle but the results are phenomenal......oh, and no need to cut it. You can thicken it by using acrylic tube paint...just a touch of it.

But Joe....I'm gonna have to be honest here. I thought you have been using an airbrush on your tank! You've manage to produce some awesome work with out it!

WOW that's HP and fast!
Here is my project 81 Z28 only put a chevy ZZ4 in it for the motor but it should be pretty good being it only had 190HP new!
Mines set up for handeling