After almost 2 years of
#2
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
lookin good! You could always speed it up with this kit. It rusts anything. http://www.imperial-modellbau.de/shop/index2.htm
Or you can purchase the original method and kitmade byModern Masters Metal effects Iron paint and rust activator. http://www.thehardwarecity.com/getProducts.html%3bjsessionid=3E87585529D30583DFCB 65518A121272?vendorName=Modern+Masters+Inc
ModernMasters Inc. http://www.modernmastersinc.com/products.aspx?pl=ME
This is a true weathering kit that causes real rust. I used these for a previous studio sculpture years ago that required heavy aging. Really easy to use and the results are perfect.
Or you can purchase the original method and kitmade byModern Masters Metal effects Iron paint and rust activator. http://www.thehardwarecity.com/getProducts.html%3bjsessionid=3E87585529D30583DFCB 65518A121272?vendorName=Modern+Masters+Inc
ModernMasters Inc. http://www.modernmastersinc.com/products.aspx?pl=ME
This is a true weathering kit that causes real rust. I used these for a previous studio sculpture years ago that required heavy aging. Really easy to use and the results are perfect.
#4
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Patton, is that a real rust kit or just pastel chalk kit with dirt debris?
edit: Nevermind, just found the product website. Guess that would be a better solution if your not caught up on your tetanus shot! lol Good info though!
edit: Nevermind, just found the product website. Guess that would be a better solution if your not caught up on your tetanus shot! lol Good info though!
#6
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Patton's recommended kit is rust simulation. Either it's liquid rust or some form of paint solution kit.
The one I posted is actually real iron paint and a rust activator or oxidization liquid. You could use this in different fashions, such as a base coat, then top coat it with your intended color, enduce paint chipping or wait for natural wear of the pain and let it rust on its own or quicken it with the rust activator. Great for resin areas.
The other option is to hand paint the iron paint to designated area and then apply the rust activator. The more rust activation applied, the more orange and corroded it will get. The techniques are limitless.
As said, you'd be working with real rust, so if you haven't had your tetanus shots, go with Patton's recommendation. lol
Never used the instant rust product, but it looks similar to my recommendation, but the iron paint from Modern Masters is gunmetal/silvercolorlike a metal surfacevsInstant Rust product which is agrey iron primer.
The one I posted is actually real iron paint and a rust activator or oxidization liquid. You could use this in different fashions, such as a base coat, then top coat it with your intended color, enduce paint chipping or wait for natural wear of the pain and let it rust on its own or quicken it with the rust activator. Great for resin areas.
The other option is to hand paint the iron paint to designated area and then apply the rust activator. The more rust activation applied, the more orange and corroded it will get. The techniques are limitless.
As said, you'd be working with real rust, so if you haven't had your tetanus shots, go with Patton's recommendation. lol
Never used the instant rust product, but it looks similar to my recommendation, but the iron paint from Modern Masters is gunmetal/silvercolorlike a metal surfacevsInstant Rust product which is agrey iron primer.
#7
That's immitation rust. Rust-All can be found in most good hobby shops or a Miro-Mark,com
It's a 4 bottle kit...use a blackwash if desired, paint on some from the rust bottle, may take 2-3 coats to get it where you want...pioneer tools, tow cables etc, one coat should do. Bottle 3 is the small dust granules to spread on muffler shields etc to replicate flaking paint. Last bottle is a tone & gloss flattener. It's great stuff, not expensive and a must for German and any other tank with mufflers or muffler shields. One kit will last a long time.
It's a 4 bottle kit...use a blackwash if desired, paint on some from the rust bottle, may take 2-3 coats to get it where you want...pioneer tools, tow cables etc, one coat should do. Bottle 3 is the small dust granules to spread on muffler shields etc to replicate flaking paint. Last bottle is a tone & gloss flattener. It's great stuff, not expensive and a must for German and any other tank with mufflers or muffler shields. One kit will last a long time.






