Artistic help needed!
#1
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Here's what I'm working with. I'm completely color blind. I can't tell green from red or brown, blue from purple or grey, etc. I've searched the internet for help with weathering and really didn't find any help. The sites just say "earth tones" and other generalities that really don't help me. What colors and associated techniques should I use to complete this tank? It gets run daily and isn't a show piece, I just want it to be a little more realistic looking from a distance. Does that make sense?
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
#3
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From: calgary, AB, CANADA
Icannot speak of colour blindness, but are you able to see things more like black and white? If you can take a look at the monochromatic scale. By using blacks greys and whites you should be able to come up with something that looks reasonable. If not since you run the thing daily, let the weather do the work for you. You know there was a time when tanks were brand new looking in the field.
#4
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Everything's just different shades/intensities. When I paint something that's supposed to be wood, I buy paint labeled "wood", if it's metal, I use "Aluminum, Steel", etc. It was a lot easier when I was a kid. Buy whatever color metal flake paint they had to paint the car body and paint the seats black! I've searched "Wash" and can't seem to find an article that actually explains how to do it. Maybe they could sticky something on the forums on painting and other finish techniques?
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A wash is simply accenting areas to provide depth using a very translucent degree of pigment using a darker color with large parts of water or medium. Basically, it's staining. <div>
</div><div>For instance, you have the mold lines in the mud guards. There's a few ways to produce depth in the mold lines. One being, to actually brush paint in the lines with precision or a micron pen, or radiograph pen. Then there's the wash. A simple watery solution of pigment brushed over the mold area and lightly wipe away from the highest point leaving the wash solution in the seams. In many cases, it isn't necessary to wipe anything, but for that example....you do. Leaving traces of your washing isn't always ideal unless you wan't it to looks like stains. </div>
</div><div>For instance, you have the mold lines in the mud guards. There's a few ways to produce depth in the mold lines. One being, to actually brush paint in the lines with precision or a micron pen, or radiograph pen. Then there's the wash. A simple watery solution of pigment brushed over the mold area and lightly wipe away from the highest point leaving the wash solution in the seams. In many cases, it isn't necessary to wipe anything, but for that example....you do. Leaving traces of your washing isn't always ideal unless you wan't it to looks like stains. </div>
#6
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You can use Tamiya paint for washes. Thin it with water and a couple of drops of dish detergent. THis will lower the surface tension of the water and allow it to spread evenly without it beading up.
It is best to apply it too thin then too heavy. By going with a thin wash you can gradually build up the wash color with mutiple coats, allowing it to dry in between coats. In your case I would apply a couple of washes of grey to lighten and take the shine off the model. Follow this with a very thin wash of hull red, or black.(Or mix them together) THis darker color will find its way to the recessed lines and pop the details out.
I few well applied washes can turn a plastic tank into a Model Tiger. If you stick with acrylic washes , and if you don't like the result you can spray Windex on the tank and with a soft cloth remove all the washes you applied, bringing you back to the base color.
You can go to great effort to weather a tank and many do(including myself) but this wash technique can give darn good results all on it's own in a short amount of time.
It is best to apply it too thin then too heavy. By going with a thin wash you can gradually build up the wash color with mutiple coats, allowing it to dry in between coats. In your case I would apply a couple of washes of grey to lighten and take the shine off the model. Follow this with a very thin wash of hull red, or black.(Or mix them together) THis darker color will find its way to the recessed lines and pop the details out.
I few well applied washes can turn a plastic tank into a Model Tiger. If you stick with acrylic washes , and if you don't like the result you can spray Windex on the tank and with a soft cloth remove all the washes you applied, bringing you back to the base color.
You can go to great effort to weather a tank and many do(including myself) but this wash technique can give darn good results all on it's own in a short amount of time.
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From: saint petersburg ,
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i did all my washes and filters with tamiya paints. then came back with some tamiya weathermaster sets. its really easy and lots of fun to do. get some good photos, books help alot to and go from there. pick a time that tank was in summer, winter and just start to have fun with it. the tamiya paints are very forgiveing paints to use
mike
mike
#9
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From: , CA
This any better? Too much, not enough? Should I use Dullcote then a dark wash? Maybe just Dullcote? Never Dullcote?
I think it looks better, somewhat used. Thanks for the help so far.
I think it looks better, somewhat used. Thanks for the help so far.
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Milsurp, <div>
</div><div>Can't tell greatly what color you used but it looks like a turquoise. Are you just trying to dirty it up with a brown?</div>
</div><div>Can't tell greatly what color you used but it looks like a turquoise. Are you just trying to dirty it up with a brown?</div>
#11
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I would lighten it up with another wash of grey.
You might want to think about losing one of the turret numbers. German tanks only used three numbers. Turn this into 381. Only use dullcoat when you are completely satisfied with everything. Once the Dullcoat goes on you will seal the acrylic wash and lock it in. Up until dullcoat, Windex will strip it to the bare paint.
It is looking better.
You might want to think about losing one of the turret numbers. German tanks only used three numbers. Turn this into 381. Only use dullcoat when you are completely satisfied with everything. Once the Dullcoat goes on you will seal the acrylic wash and lock it in. Up until dullcoat, Windex will strip it to the bare paint.
It is looking better.
#12
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From: , CA
ORIGINAL: BiggTony
Milsurp, <div>
</div><div>Can't tell greatly what color you used but it looks like a turquoise. Are you just trying to dirty it up with a brown?</div>
Milsurp, <div>
</div><div>Can't tell greatly what color you used but it looks like a turquoise. Are you just trying to dirty it up with a brown?</div>
Thanks again,maybe this will help others also.
#14
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From: calgary, AB, CANADA
Go to youtube and search for promodeler. This guy does a very nice job with weathering in different claybased washes really interesting indeed.
Milsurp it looks like you are on the right track. Oh I should be Punished for that Pun.
Milsurp it looks like you are on the right track. Oh I should be Punished for that Pun.
#15
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First, thanks to those who helped. The pictures really don't do this justice. Very sunny here in the desert today, over 100 degrees. Makes the photos look washed out. The dark wash really makes the hinges and such really stand out. I'm much happier with it now, and I think I even learned how to do better next time. As a general rule, would the lighter wash usually be the same color as the base coat, just lighter? Hmm, wonder which one to do next.



