YHR Hobby Engine Leopard conversion(now with video)
#26

Looks real good Dan. very neat work. I don't usually have the time or patience to get that far into the details. It's like at work. just getter dun. LOL
#27
YHR, can you do a quick tutorial on the charger plug? I asked my LHS and they said you can't do that, you have to plug the battery in each time. I know you guys have been doing them for a long time now.
#28
Thread Starter
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: pcsguy88
YHR, can you do a quick tutorial on the charger plug? I asked my LHS and they said you can't do that, you have to plug the battery in each time. I know you guys have been doing them for a long time now.
YHR, can you do a quick tutorial on the charger plug? I asked my LHS and they said you can't do that, you have to plug the battery in each time. I know you guys have been doing them for a long time now.
#30

No but I can make a diagram for the Abrams. It was actually different than the LEO so that gives you a clue as too the QC on this brand also. Now. I don't usually reconnect all the lighting features. In my opinion Im not fighting with the head lights on. But i can get your turret and gun and sound functions working correctly. As far as connecting a charge port all you need too do is splice the appropriate connector in parallel with he battery wiring.
#31
Thanks guys, I really don't want to separate the hull each time I need a charge. 
A wiring guide for the Leo would be great Panther G, anything to save time and headache. Just having the pin out of the HL plug up above helps tremendously.

A wiring guide for the Leo would be great Panther G, anything to save time and headache. Just having the pin out of the HL plug up above helps tremendously.
#32
Thread Starter
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: sir_francis
The wiring diagram you posted is how to change torro t34 electronic with HL one. Is it same for HE abrams?
The wiring diagram you posted is how to change torro t34 electronic with HL one. Is it same for HE abrams?
No, but the item of interest in the pictures is the DPDT swtich and how you go about charging a battery on board.
#34

I personally don't like to charge batteries "on board". Even good packs can get very warm when being charged and to tell the truth I just don't trust them. I use a very good charger, which is important. Don't go cheap on your charger. Saving a couple of bucks on the charger can cost BIG in the long run.<div> As soon as I can figure out how to make a diagram i'll post the pin out for the HE Abrams. Like I said my Abrams and LEO where both wired differently so I cant say this will work for either. A little inconsistency on HE's part. But they both work, it just took a little working out.</div><div> Again I don't reconnect the wiring for any of the lighting, so if you want this it may not be of any help.</div>
#35
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From: Evans, GA
ORIGINAL: Panther G
I personally don't like to charge batteries ''on board''. Even good packs can get very warm when being charged and to tell the truth I just don't trust them. I use a very good charger, which is important. Don't go cheap on your charger. Saving a couple of bucks on the charger can cost BIG in the long run.<div> As soon as I can figure out how to make a diagram i'll post the pin out for the HE Abrams. Like I said my Abrams and LEO where both wired differently so I cant say this will work for either. A little inconsistency on HE's part. But they both work, it just took a little working out.</div><div> Again I don't reconnect the wiring for any of the lighting, so if you want this it may not be of any help.</div>
I personally don't like to charge batteries ''on board''. Even good packs can get very warm when being charged and to tell the truth I just don't trust them. I use a very good charger, which is important. Don't go cheap on your charger. Saving a couple of bucks on the charger can cost BIG in the long run.<div> As soon as I can figure out how to make a diagram i'll post the pin out for the HE Abrams. Like I said my Abrams and LEO where both wired differently so I cant say this will work for either. A little inconsistency on HE's part. But they both work, it just took a little working out.</div><div> Again I don't reconnect the wiring for any of the lighting, so if you want this it may not be of any help.</div>
Can you suggest a good charger? So far I have used the supplied charger from HL. I have ruined a couple batteries. Mostly from forgetting to unplug them and having them over charge. One that has an auto cut-off would be good for me LOL. Thanks
Jim
#36

It is really a matter of preference on how you like to charge your packs. I always suggest a good Peak style charger, as this allows the pack to come up to it;s "Peak voltage" and the charger shuts down. This prevents over heating and over charging which is what kills packs. <div> I use an MRC 977 Super Brain. MRC has been around for a very long time in model rail roading so they have a long history good products.</div><div> There are many good chargers on the market, you need to do a little foot work and look into this to suit your own needs. I have packs that are as high as 5300 mAh, so the charger needs to be able to handle the capacity of the packs you use. Again this falls under the preference category. I like to put a pack in a model and not need to worry about if I'm going to run out of juice in the middle of a fight. I would rather get killed by the opponent than by a dead battery.</div><div> I run 2 - 5000 mAh packs in my Tiger, one for the DMD and one for the MF unit. It is a very heavy tank so I know it wont run out of power. Now in my Panther G I run a 3600 pack that is zapped with all matching cells. This is my hot rod and MBT. Very reliable and deadly. Just do some research and invest in as good a charger as you can afford because it will save you money in the long run.</div>
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Well this is a first for me. I am waiting on a set of gearboxes, so I completely did the electrical without even having any motors in it yet. Here are some pictures on what I have been working on. Installed all the El MOD stuff and did all the interior. I like to have a clean looking tank inside the hull. I build a removable floor and run all the wiring underneath that to hide it. You end up will a really clean looking interior.
I cast new wheel hubs, as the stock ones were not very convincing.
I spring loaded the drivers hatch to stay closed.
I found out the rear exhaust ventilators were built in three pieces, and that there is some actual see through grating. This was a nice suprise so I mounted two speakers in the holes and built and enclosed box for them.
This tank has two lazers. One will be housed in the range finder, and the other above the bbl. The machine gun function will fire up one lazer and can be used to target the IR shot, and the other will just be for shock and awe as it sweeps the battlefield looking for new targets.
I am working on the turret now. I added 1.3 scale meters to the bb and am working on the recoil. I am stalled waiting on parts.
The El Mod has good sound effects, and the motors spool up nicely when they are started.
I am not sure why these HE tanks are slow to show up on here. I have had a lot of fun working on mine, and of course the electronics and gears are toys, but it is turning out to be an excellent platform to build from. They use really good wire, and I have salvaged all of it, Many strands of flexible wire. Top notch stuff.
I cast new wheel hubs, as the stock ones were not very convincing.
I spring loaded the drivers hatch to stay closed.
I found out the rear exhaust ventilators were built in three pieces, and that there is some actual see through grating. This was a nice suprise so I mounted two speakers in the holes and built and enclosed box for them.
This tank has two lazers. One will be housed in the range finder, and the other above the bbl. The machine gun function will fire up one lazer and can be used to target the IR shot, and the other will just be for shock and awe as it sweeps the battlefield looking for new targets.
I am working on the turret now. I added 1.3 scale meters to the bb and am working on the recoil. I am stalled waiting on parts.
The El Mod has good sound effects, and the motors spool up nicely when they are started.
I am not sure why these HE tanks are slow to show up on here. I have had a lot of fun working on mine, and of course the electronics and gears are toys, but it is turning out to be an excellent platform to build from. They use really good wire, and I have salvaged all of it, Many strands of flexible wire. Top notch stuff.
#38

you make my work look like childs play Dan. Excellent job. I have enough on my hands just getting them to work. LOL I'm more function over form any way, but your work is as always top notch. Maybe you should talk to Phil about picking up his custom work. He may need some help with a back log, I dont know, but I believe he had some HE Abrams tanks he was doing for customers.
#39

My Feedback: (1)
Dan, what can I say? You work is always inspiring and first rate! I cannot wait to see the outcome of this buildup. I am inthe process of converting an old A$ into a FO elmod tank. I have a lot to live up to here. Thanks alot!
#41
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Phil and I discussed this long ago, but I have too many work commitments that would get in the way. I am looking at semi retirement, and then I would have time to do some custom work. The first one is always the toughest, but once you get one done, with a few resin casted goodies, the next ones get progressively quicker and easier.
I always want my tanks to look tidy and professional inside. I do this, because I do have visions of doing custom work, and If I sell something I want it to be something people are happy to spend money on.
Thanks for the comments guys, they do keep me motivated.
When I get to the slat armor, I am not sure how that will progress. It is going to be a real time hog, unless i can think of something to speed it along. I doubt you could cast the stuff in resin, but it might be worth a try.
I always want my tanks to look tidy and professional inside. I do this, because I do have visions of doing custom work, and If I sell something I want it to be something people are happy to spend money on.
Thanks for the comments guys, they do keep me motivated.
When I get to the slat armor, I am not sure how that will progress. It is going to be a real time hog, unless i can think of something to speed it along. I doubt you could cast the stuff in resin, but it might be worth a try.
#42

Well Dan, you are our most consistent member with the quality of your builds and your work ethic is certainly worthy of doing custom work, so It might not be a bad idea once you have made it to retirement. Myself will be long dead before i ever get too see it even with over 30 years in the pipe trades already.
Just started way too young and the parts have out lived their life expectancy for reliable usage. LOL. I would love to retire and just do some custom work. I do come up with some pretty good ideas, it is just being able to execute them. I don't have the time or resources. I certainly hope Phil recovers well enough to be able to stay active in our hobby. It would be a devastating lose if he where not able to continue.
Just started way too young and the parts have out lived their life expectancy for reliable usage. LOL. I would love to retire and just do some custom work. I do come up with some pretty good ideas, it is just being able to execute them. I don't have the time or resources. I certainly hope Phil recovers well enough to be able to stay active in our hobby. It would be a devastating lose if he where not able to continue.
#43
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Damn good work Dan! (As if we could expect anything less.) <div>
</div><div>I can't wait to see this sucker moving! Looks like you're leaving quite a bit of room of gearboxes.....are you going to try and install 540's? That would be so sick.</div>
</div><div>I can't wait to see this sucker moving! Looks like you're leaving quite a bit of room of gearboxes.....are you going to try and install 540's? That would be so sick.</div>
#46
Thread Starter
Senior Member
The Gun is scale length. I added a scale 1.3 meters to its length. (81.25 mm) I am waiting on a CD full of Canadian Leo's in action. Once that arrives I was going to start modifiying this. I never noticed the chamber before. Thanks.
#47
Thread Starter
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: YHR
The Gun is scale length. I added a scale 1.3 meters to its length. (81.25 mm) I am waiting on a CD full of Canadian Leo's in action. Once that arrives I was going to start modifiying this. I never noticed the chamber before. Thanks.
The Gun is scale length. I added a scale 1.3 meters to its length. (81.25 mm) I am waiting on a CD full of Canadian Leo's in action. Once that arrives I was going to start modifiying this. I never noticed the chamber before. Thanks.
Road rubber came from the AAF museum.
#48

Joined: Oct 2009
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From: ninove - outeroost vlaanderen, BELGIUM
nice conversion up to with the Leo A6-2, very well done you gave me a few thought to convert my steel wheels from the TIger I to made them compatible with the panther axles
#49
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Here is a video of My Leo on the bench. All the El Mod stuff has been added with custom sounds. The sounds all come from on board the tank.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNU_dZpymyA[/youtube]
The Tank is equipped with two targeting lasers. One of them is activated by pressing the machine gun button. My voice then comes on and blabs about targeting with a fire command. Next up is the tank receiving hits. One regular hit and then the death sound, Amazing Grace, Once the tank has respawned you get the "Tally Ho Boys"
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNU_dZpymyA[/youtube]
The Tank is equipped with two targeting lasers. One of them is activated by pressing the machine gun button. My voice then comes on and blabs about targeting with a fire command. Next up is the tank receiving hits. One regular hit and then the death sound, Amazing Grace, Once the tank has respawned you get the "Tally Ho Boys"


