|
updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
Anyone know what these are? Are they handles, can they be used to tie stowage onto? I know Bill will know for sure
Greg |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
Greg, if you mean the boxes, they are called sponson boxes, used for stowing gear. there are two handles on the front and three on the long one, to latch shut. They unlatch and open up toward the turret. Normally, a tool bag would be carried in the smaller one, and pioneer tools, gun rammer staffs (cleaning rods) and canvas items stuffed in the larger one. The sponson boxes usually had footman loops welded on the outside to mount straps for securing items carried. Ammo boxes would NOT be carried as HL has them...they'd be laying in the road before the tank rolled 100 yards. Skirts could be folded up or a cable or bar was welded along the sponsons to secure ammo boxes. (Korea...not WW II). Hope this answers yor kwestchun:D I think you mean the handles...heres pics.
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Hi Airbrushler Yep, they're the stowage box handles, used to gain access to the boxes below. Don't think they'd ordinarliy tie stuff to them, would make access too difficult. On my M41, I made up movable handles from 1mm wire, not quite accurate, in that they don't have the 'ears' that the padlocks go thru, but heaps more believeable than the mouldings. Mal</p> |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
so in WWII these ammo boxes on the side would not even be there?
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
yes i see from Bill's pics what they really look like now would be a pain to have to untie everything to get at what you needed from the box. So what would these circle pieces be small vents ?
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...09/Tp45987.jpg |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
Mal, the footman loops were on the sides of the sponsons, leaving plenty of access to whatever the crew stuffed into them. Earlier, a pioneer rack was on one of the long ones, but it was too heavy to open with tools strapped into them, was a stumbling block and just got in the way., pioneer tools were generally tossed in one of the long boxes. Sometimes a camo net or tarp was placed on the rear one,. but they didn't slide around much and was no problem to move for access.
Heres a shot of a Marine M-26 in Okinowa, showing the footman loops on the sponsons., Originally, the full tank tarp was rolled into one "sausage" and strapped to the sponsons via straps in the loops. It was cumbersom and much easier/faster just to fold it and carry in on the deck. Bill |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
ORIGINAL: afv aficionado Hi Airbrushler Yep, they're the stowage box handles, used to gain access to the boxes below. Don't think they'd ordinarliy tie stuff to them, would make access too difficult. On my M41, I made up movable handles from 1mm wire, not quite accurate, in that they don't have the 'ears' that the padlocks go thru, but heaps more believeable than the mouldings. Mal</p> |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
Tracks generate a lot of vibration as the tank moves....at any speed. The way HL has those boxes, they would not be on the tank more than 50-75 yards down the road before some infantry guiys would be picking them up out of the mud. Here are some pics of how we carried ammo....2 are M-46s, but it's basically the same chassis, fenders etc.
Gregg, yes, those are vents and the boxes have 4 drain plugs in them. In korea rainy season, we filled the small box up with OE-30 engine oil and dumped tools into the oil...otherwise they would be totallty rusted in a day. The photo also shows a couple footman loops on the fender. |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
check the pics I sent to gregg. The latches could be padlocked, as they often were to prevent tools from getting "lost".
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
So would something like this be ok sorry i can never get the camera to take good closeups
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
As you can see i started painting the Pershing again like the 5th time...lol
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Airbrushler:
Tamiya supplied the parts for better handles in the kit contents... You can find them on the two E sprues, part #1, up above the engine deck grilles. What you do is shave off the old molded-on ones, trying to remember which end was the pivot end, and drill a small hole for the alignment pin on the replacement handles. Then just glue the replacements in place. If you want something a tad more sturdy, a few of the German aftermarketers have nickel-silver cast ones. Or, you could look at the plastic ones, and give making 'em from wire a shot. Heck, most of us make the handgrips and the never-supplied 'footman loops' from wire for ourselves. A little side-note on 'footman loops. You most commonly see them on Jeeps. They are at the aft corners, and in various other places. I can take a pic of my Danbury Jeep to show you them, if you like. They originate WAY back in the days of horse-drawn carriages, when you had the carriage driver or 'coachman', and then one or two 'footmen' who sometimes used these iron loops to ride hanging off either side, and moving pedestrian traffic if needed. When automobiles came about, these became wider and longer in cases, and evolved into 'runningboards'. Anyone who has seen a Presidential motorcade has seen the evolution of footman's loops as runningboards. These days, they are more often used as tiedowns, on everything from military vehicles, to fire trucks, to even boats. In all honesty, I doubt the tankers had enough supply to use proper loops looted from jeeps, at least in WW2. I think that there were more 'makeshift' loops made: bent steel rod with flattened ends, and those flattened points welded to the vehicle in question. A bit of copper wire, cut to the length needed, then hammer end partially flat and glue in place. Thats the way I do mine. If you find copper wire too soft, find some paper-clips without the serrations on them. Straighten, but to length, and presto, firm enough. Just my observations. |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
ORIGINAL: WhiteWolf McBride Airbrushler: Tamiya supplied the parts for better handles in the kit contents... You can find them on the two E sprues, part #1, up above the engine deck grilles. What you do is shave off the old molded-on ones, trying to remember which end was the pivot end, and drill a small hole for the alignment pin on the replacement handles. Then just glue the replacements in place. If you want something a tad more sturdy, a few of the German aftermarketers have nickel-silver cast ones. Or, you could look at the plastic ones, and give making 'em from wire a shot. Heck, most of us make the handgrips and the never-supplied 'footman loops' from wire for ourselves. A little side-note on 'footman loops. You most commonly see them on Jeeps. They are at the aft corners, and in various other places. I can take a pic of my Danbury Jeep to show you them, if you like. They originate WAY back in the days of horse-drawn carriages, when you had the carriage driver or 'coachman', and then one or two 'footmen' who sometimes used these iron loops to ride hanging off either side, and moving pedestrian traffic if needed. When automobiles came about, these became wider and longer in cases, and evolved into 'runningboards'. Anyone who has seen a Presidential motorcade has seen the evolution of footman's loops as runningboards. These days, they are more often used as tiedowns, on everything from military vehicles, to fire trucks, to even boats. In all honesty, I doubt the tankers had enough supply to use proper loops looted from jeeps, at least in WW2. I think that there were more 'makeshift' loops made: bent steel rod with flattened ends, and those flattened points welded to the vehicle in question. A bit of copper wire, cut to the length needed, then hammer end partially flat and glue in place. Thats the way I do mine. If you find copper wire too soft, find some paper-clips without the serrations on them. Straighten, but to length, and presto, firm enough. Just my observations. Hmmm Thanks WhiteWolf copper wire sounds like a plan these styrene ones i just made are a pain to keep from breaking as i'm cutting them |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
that's the idea...oil cans upright so leaks don't run into the engine, onto fan belts or on the fender making it a ski slope., Rope would hold for a while, but generally, a cable or rod was tack welded and run along the sponsons so that ammo boxes could be yanked out in a hurry and quickly restocked. Rope has to be tied/untied...and breaks. Lookin' better....get rid of that *!^%@#$ chain.[&:]
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
ORIGINAL: WhiteWolf McBride Airbrushler: Tamiya supplied the parts for better handles in the kit contents... You can find them on the two E sprues, part #1, up above the engine deck grilles. Tamiya i wish it was a Tamiya...lol |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Hi Airbrushler
Re my wire handles, take a look at pic 61 on post 182 above. They're just a long U (upside down) with one side mostly cut off - not all. The long end goes into the hole you drill thru the moulded one, prior to grinding the moulding to oblivion, then you bend the end thru 90 degrees to keep it in place & moveable. What were you doing to upgrade the gun? I'm working on this - http://www.riverspirithouseboat.com....p?topic=2467.0 & this - http://hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=264.0 Hey Bill, nice pics Mal |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
ok Bill no more chain out of respect for you and for those who you had lost
sorry must be shaking taking the pics need more pepsi |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Whitewolf, thanks for the history lesson on Footman loops...never heard that before...interesting developement. We could always requisition footman loops and a handfull were generally available in the maint supply bins. Every tank carried a half dozen..I'm talking about 1950-60s. On my own tank, I used a couple dozen, as the whole exterrior was a retrofit tank killer. They are generally a great item and could be mounted anythere on sheet matel or tack welded elsewhere. Today, seems everything has been programmed to carry what where, and I haven't seen much improvising on modern stuff.
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
cool,,, looks much less dangerous to the crew. still don't see any 90mm holes in that candy cane Panther.:D
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
ORIGINAL: afv aficionado Hi Airbrushler Re my wire handles, take a look at pic 61 on post 182 above. They're just a long U (upside down) with one side mostly cut off - not all. The long end goes into the hole you drill thru the moulded one, prior to grinding the moulding to oblivion, then you bend the end thru 90 degrees to keep it in place & moveable. What were you doing to upgrade the gun? I'm working on this - http://www.riverspirithouseboat.com....p?topic=2467.0 & this - http://hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=264.0 Hey Bill, nice pics Mal Mal i'm just working on how things were stowed onto the body of the Pershing where i can tie things onto and where not to tie them to looking good Mal nice job http://www.riverspirithouseboat.com....ch=18010;image |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
ORIGINAL: pattoncommander cool,,, looks much less dangerous to the crew. still don't see any 90mm holes in that candy cane Panther.:D |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Gregg, have you tried some black washes? A couple washes should tone it down. Or you might try "dusting' with a spray can of tan and allow to settle over the tank as road dust. It would tone down the colors....or repaint- paint over existing colors with more pastel colors. I had that problem with one of my IDF Shermans that came out too light. A random dusting with desert tan toned it down just right, but I was dealing with desert colors. Doing it a second time always sux. .
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
1 Attachment(s)
Stowage; things to keep in mind.....stow where it won't vibrate off..secure it. Do not block air vents to the engine. Do not block any vision devices....gunner-driver-bog- TC. Do not block turret traverse or cal 50 movement. Do not block hatch access...in or out! No live ammo outside..other that cal 30/50 mg boxes. M-1 helmets (steel pots) belong where the crewman in that location can get to it immediately if he has to dismount. NOT laying on the back deck on boxes. Keep antennas free.
Items to carry; oil cans...secure to rear fenders or in the right side turret rack (designed to carry extra road wheels, but rarely used as such. Water cans good there, or can even tie to lifting rings at the rear,(rope or straps) let them hang by carrying handles....not too loose. Canvas items, duffel bags, good on turret rear on top, secured by ropes. C rats box also good there. Camo net/ tarp, on rear sponson box top, also by the driver or bow gunner fender...allow hatch opening to latch. Original Pershing idea....fold the tarp as a sausage and strap it to the left fender by footman loops. (You can always glue straps around it and tuck them in behind...no one will see the loops anyway.) Water pail can be hung on one of the tow hooks, or strapped hanging from a lifting ring or fender brace. The cal 50 stowage mount on the turret rear is a good place for an oil or water can...or ??? There should be a spare cal 50 barrel there, which can support a light load. The rest is up to you. Have fun:D |
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
Sounds good, Thanks Everyone, Thanks Bill. I have fun working on them keeps me out of trouble...lol
|
RE: updated pics Pershing Question
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...09/Sd42772.jpg
so i could do this to it then Bill instead of roping it? |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:15 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.