Adding weight to tanks
 

I acquired a Jagdpanther not too long ago with metal tracks, sprockets, idlers and gearbox and the thing weighs a tonne compared to my other tanks. I love my Sherman, but it is way too light in comparison. How would I go about adding weight?

I was thinking of adding metal sheet to the inside of the lower hull and covering the metal sheets with Styrene to prevent shorting of boards and what not. I was thinking about adding weights, but I don't want random bulges of metal lining the inside.

Any thoughts on how this could be achieved without going overboard?

ETO armor sells a plate that mounts inside the hull of the sherman. It provides a lower CG. http://www.etoarmour.com/

What to you mean by 'metal sheets' shorting the boards? I am rookie, so pardon my lack of knowledge

Stick on wheel weights is what I use for some of my projects. They are small and can be placed almost anywhere for the perfect look and balance. :)

You can use stick-on wheel weights. Cheap and easy. You can even stick them around the upper hull if things get tight. Can be stacked to centralize. I have some in the front of my T34 and Pershings to gave a C-of-G around the middle, all turn and drive over stuff much better then stock.
example:http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Truck...69DYJ5F4CH8S3E


....beat me to it, Imex-Erik;)

What other metal parts do you have as things such as road wheels and suspension arms not to mention most of the track are un-sprung weight so don’t really count things such as sprockets and idlers plus about ¼ of the tracks are sprung weight and by adding more sprung weight affects the suspension, if weight is so important and I can’t see why it would be as it would add more problems why not simply buy an all metal model and if you really must add more weight

Stick with the tape on wheels weights. The plate Rustytrax is speaking of is for the Tamiya Sherman which relies on a clear interior with no obstructions where as the Sherman you have has reinforced webbing inside the lower hull and most likely will not fit without cutting.






Jeff.

I rolled my Panther three times at the last Danville battle weekend. I'm probably going to take Rustytrax's advice to line the bottom of my tank with lead wheel weights to place its CG lower.

I've used fishing weights and double-sided tape. They were easier to get than wheel weights. Place them in the right spot and you can use leverage to move the CoG while at the same time adding some weight.

I'll add those weights to my Amazon wish list if I can't find something similar near me.

I only have metal sprockets at the moment, but plan on adding metal tracks and sprockets. The stock HL springs are way too resistant to act as proper suspension. Some might see it as adding problems to the tank, but I prefer added weight for (what seems like) better traction and it will make use of the suspension.

As much as I want a full metal model, the two local online tank retailers in Oz haven't received them yet and they are out of my price range at the moment.

Did you purchase this in australia? If so where from, very interested in one of these myself at the moment

I counter weight main guns with steel BBs in the turret rear, I guess they could be added to the lower if necessary.

Personally, I haven't felt the need to add hull weight, but my tanks all sit wide and low (Tamiya's Tiger I, JS-2, Pz IV and Trumpeter T-34). I guess I'll see with the Erstaz M-10 if a higher profile makes a difference.

All Tamiya tanks have some natural weight but these non-Tamiya tanks (and if they do not have metal tracks) are really TOO light. I have a few I converted and they just float on the grass.







Jeff

I to used some old lead sinkers I had and sealed them in 30 min epoxy so they were child safe .

Jimmy

If you have room in your tank, I would suggest to add weight by using an extra battery instead of using "dead" weight...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2012997

10000mAh lol that is funny. Planning on driving to work with that? I bet it drives for at least 4 hours.

Actually, the batteries are not connected in parallel; but they do power different loads...I do get a solid 2 hours drive from my tank anyhow...:o
Here's the wiring diagram I'm using...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2013051

I used rubber cement to glue washers from the hardware store in my Panther to balance the turret. I put some in the lower hull too. Works great and cost pennies. Never had any problems with it.

Or, get a box of ball bearings and some RTV sylicone. Make a layer of sylicone thenadd all the bearings to it you need to get it the weight you want. Add more sylicone to the top to seal and cover the bearings. You can use this method in tanks with compartments in the hull or tight spaces.

My heng long jagdpanther weighs in at 16.59 lbs, steel plates and aluminum angle iron were used along with the metal track ,sprockets etc.

The Jagd was purchased at the Toy and Games Expo from a business called RC Crew. On their website, they only have Tamiya tanks listed. I think they were getting rid of HL stock. You can try the normal sites like Tankarmy and Ozarmour. The ones they sell are IR.

I found some wheel weights locally through someone at work. They are 110g or about 3.8 oz. I don't know if I'm getting a stril of them or not.

Los Tx
Here is what I did.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2013297http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2013298http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2013299
Steve

Neat idea, but the problem with just adding a sheet of metal to the bottom is you still haven't addressed the Center of Balance issue! Personally I use stick on car weights and that solves everything..

And here I am trying to keep my 'light' tanks as light as possible ;)