Taigen Tiger GearBoxes
 

Howdy. I'm looking to swap out my gearboxes on my Taigen Tiger 1 Late plastic. Curious to know which one is best? I'm not worried about the speed mostly the torque and maneuverability. I live in an extremely hilly area. I also upgraded to metal sprockets and idlers so any other upgrade tips would be great!

I have had very good results with "TAIGENS" own 4/1 Metal all bearing gearboxes.
Shaun.

What he said. I have five tigers and the "4:1" with bearings drive every one of them, along with My jagdtiger, two King Tigers and a Panther G. Next to the brass dual ratio (which are out of production) I think they're the best available.

what they said, 4:1

The High/Low, 4:1, 48mm gearboxes are what you would want for the Tiger 1. They have the lowest ratio and will improve the slow speed maneuverability a lot. You can find them here: http://www.taigentanks.com/taigen-tank-parts/tag14010s
There is also a video on the page as well going over the new upgrades to the gearboxes if you would like more info.
You're lucky you have hills, I have just sand here! Happy tanking!

Here! Here! You might also consider either 390, Speed400, or 480 motors. Should have room in a Tiger for the longer can motors. These will give you plenty of "grunt" to take full advantage of the 4:1 gearboxes.

The 4:1 steel ones were the ones I had my eye on ��. I'm in western Pennsylvania and it's nothing but steep hills and mud and I've made a track for my Tiger in the woods but once the dirt starts to cake up it slows the tank to almost a stop and makes maneuvering a real challenge. Also would it be wise to put the metal tracks on the plastic Tiger or would it cause it to bend and bow in a long run?

The metal tracks will have pros and cons, the pros mainly being a bit better grip and weight to add with traction. The cons are going to be weight added and a bit more wear on the plastic drive and idler wheels. You can always just add a bit of weight on the inside of the tank first to simulate the weight addition to see if you want it first, just know when you add weight the tracks will be at a much lower center of gravity and more spread out than something you place in the chassis. The tracks will cause no issues to the tank if you are wondering about stress, the plastic edition Tiger 1 comes with the same metal chassis the metal edition tanks do so load it up :)

I'll try the weights first. Also when I got my Tiger from my local hobby store the plastic strips that are right above the tracks that run front to rear on the lower hull were bowed a bit and I've noticed a gap between the upper hull and lower when I put the top on and click it in. I've tried attaching a strip of thin firm metal to each side however it didn't straighten it out at all. I'll see if I can get a picture of it to better explain

Metal tracks, sprockets and idlers plus the gearboxes will add good weight.

[QUOTE=GermanTanker91;12295715]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2196634
I might be using mistaken reasoning,
But the quick release on Taigen Tanks is a later addition to the original design,
And that was where the Hull was screwed to the Body, With all the screw points along the hull taking up the slack it pulled in the Tank Body which the quick release which only contacts the back and the front only cannot,
This also happens when you adapt a Heng Long Body to the Taigen Quick Release.
Shaun..

You might want to trim that post down a bit that touches the lower hull, that hopefully should help a bit. You might also want to see if it is the lower hull drooping and not the upper hull pushing on it. If it is the hull drooping a bit we do have some braces that can help. Does your tank also have the front brace on it near the gearboxes?

It's the lower hull. It's not bad it's just enough for dirt to get in at times. I'll try dremeling down the posts and see how that works

And yes it does have the brace going across the gearboxes

Just a hair, try around 1/4" first.
We do have those same braces in stock here, you can also run a brace along the middle there, that should straighten up the lower droop. They are pretty cheap if you need one, I've got them on the site here: http://www.taigentanks.com/requests/t1brace

Ok I'll look into those thank you. The only reason I want the metal tracks is to try to get that metal clanking track sound lol I'm a heavy equipment operator and that sound tracked machines and tanks make when they move makes it all that much more fun :)

Hi, If you fit a decent control board with a downloadable sound card you can download the track noises yourself,
The squeaks and rattles etc,
some control boards come with track noises already downloaded.
So if you want to keep the plastic tracks on your Tank you are free to do so.
Shaun.

You into the r/c construction scene at all?
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.co...isplay.php?f=6

I actually just seen the RC equipment at my local hobby store and thought it was a kids thing until I looked on YouTube and realized that was a real thing lol. My tank was my first RC vehicle since I was little and was actually an impulse buy because "holy crap it's a remote control Tiger!" And prior to that I've played world of tanks and absolutely love the movie Fury and since I got the tank I've gotten out of the model building hobby and took on the RC tank hobby. To bad no one I know or heard of anyone around my area battles with them or anything of that sort. The RC off road racing however is really big in my area

The added weight of the tracks along with the 4:1gearboxes will completely change how well your tank can climb those hills. My backyard is a big hill and I could not get traction without the weight of the tracks and metal road wheels

I did a run yesterday with my Tiger through the woods and frozen mud and I did notice it could use a bit more weight to it. It goes around great. But on small hills and on the leafs it tends to stop and slide in place. I think I'm gonna wait on the metal tracks and put some weights in it but my question would be how much weight would be a good start and keep the weight near the front or distribute it evenly?

Definitely try to evenly distribute it if you can, the con with adding weight to the lower chassis is it will raise the center of gravity. You want to try and distribute as best as possible. The Tiger 1 metal early version tracks I just weighed at 3.25lbs or 1.625lbs on each side :) Hopefully that gives a good starting point.

I put about 3lbs of weight in it but it bogged down the gearboxes a bit so I reduced it to 1 1/2lbs and it runs and moves like a champ! Ran it on a mix of hard ground and mud trail with little hills and bridges I set up and the traction is a lot better