Minenknacker - Pz. I Ausf F VK 18.01
 

After having finished a couple of oversize tanks I decided I would like to do a smaller one and I have landed on the Pz I Ausf F.

This thread will contain progress.

Theres plenty of information on the Pz I Ausf F on the net soo I will keep it brief. The Minenknacker ("Mine Cracker") was a dead end developmentof the Pz I resulting from an apparent "need" for a heavy shellproof tank that would support breakthroughs of heavily fortified areas.

1939 saw the start of the project which would have big fat tracks and 80mm of armor in front, 50 mm in the side and was invulnerable to AT weapons of the period. It had wide tracks, torsion bar suspension and two MG 34s in the turret.

30 units were produced throughout 1942 even though the context the design was supposed to address had all but dissappeared (Maginot Line type activities).

As is usually the way, tanks that are badly designed or obsolete ended up in nefarious "police" type duties in partisan areas of the eastern front where the Ausf F did fairly well. A battalion of the tanks was supposed totake part in the invasion of Malta but that didnt work out in the end.

Its a nice tank as it loads of features that pop up in later designes (torsion bars, overlapping wheels, the vision block is very Tiger esque etc etc.).

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...bab684670a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...dd9620d964.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...bfb5b6da5e.jpg

My plan is to, as usual, make it from scratch as much as possible and from steel. Given the size, it will need a custom gearbox. Which may be a problem.

The wheels will be an issue too...... they have spokes and the two outer wheels have a weird cake tin scalloped hubcap type arrangement. Some compromises will have to be made I reckon. It will also be tough to fit a standard sized 7.4 volt battery in there as it is too long. I may have to seek an alternative battery type.

I got hold of a nice set of Tiger Transport tracks from Asiatam for a great price and they are just about the right width and appearance give or take a mm or two.

I started forming the hull last night and will hopefully keep things up to date more or less.

P

I like the variants of the light German tanks, they aren't often modeled in favor of the German Giant tanks. Pz I and Pz II have some really interesting variants. This is when I most feel the loss of Geisswerk- Martin would make tracks for stuff like this. At least for 1/10 and 1/6 scale...

I'll go out on a limb and assume 1/16 scale?

Jerry

I'm afraid so.......its just simpler to get tracks and some hard to make bits.

Although it's a trade off with respect to space inside.

P

Here are the first humble pictures of my knacker. Sorry that they are crude and not exciting but from little acorns......

2mm steel has been used to rough out the two sides. The front is still to be done...Im waiting for the gears cover which lets me determine the shape of the front walls.

Oddly enough, it seems the swingarms on either side swing in different directions. On the right, They swing forwards (counter clockwise) and on the left they swing the other way. So I have to start making those arms soon.

This tank cannot weigh more than 6 or 7 kilos so I am hoping standard motors suffice. If not....I am taking up another hobby!

P

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ec0567a1b0.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3246e378bc.jpg

Am following! I find this to be one of the most interesting of the German designs.

I had to make a start on the running gear as I need it to be done before I start assemblingthe hull pieces.

This was a fairly simple. 3 parts. The first was the shaft that gies through the hull wall. This was 6mm silver steel. Lenths of 26 mm were cut and filed square. A 2 mm slot was cut in one end to a depth of 8mm. I cleaned this slot up with a file. This wuill hold the one end of the torsion spring. I will get back to this bit.

The next was the swing arm itself. These were cut from 4mm mild steel and two holes of 6mm were drilled in each one.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...da28095b21.jpg

Then I rounded off the ends using the mini belt sander I have. I was not so concerned about this as they wont be visible.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...baf8688d0c.jpg

Then I need a round bit that sits up against the hull. This was simply some slices of a 1 cm thick silver steel bar center drilled to 6mm.

These were then all silver soldered together...I may have been a bit heavy handed with the silver but it wont be visible.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8ccd013537.jpg

The little hole in the forks performs two functions.

The hole is tapped both ends to M2. This will stop the forks splaying when under rotation against the spring.

In addition ... when the torsion bar hooked end is inserted, teh M2 bolts holds the torsion within the fork (not clamped by the forks, just held in).

Th eother end of the torsion bar will be held in a clamp. This allows for adjustment of the torsion bar.

Plus...and this is the bit I was focussed on ..... when the other end is clamped, the hook will pull against the bolt in the fork serving to keep the whole assemble firmly pulled against the hull and negating the need for shaft rings or whatever.

If it doesnt work ...I'll just use some circlips to hold the swing arm in place.

P

Decided to take Tanques advice from another thread and have a go at making a mitre gearbox for this tank as making HL style ones to fit with biog enough motors was a real nightmare. Possible....but by the time they were done they took up a lot of valuable space.

I made the frame from crylic - because I had a block big enough and I dont have time for hacking at aluminium for weeks. The holes have brass bushings - could have been bearings but the smallest I could get for a 6mm shaft had a 13mm OD and accurately cutting such holes was beyond me. There is obviously a lot to be done...flats on teh shafts and the 8mm diameter end pieces on the shafts to enage with the sprockets.

To ensure the acrylic will stand up , the two outside arms of the box are flush with the hull walls and will be held to them with screws significantly toughening them up.

Th emotors are 100 rpm gearhead motors from ebay...if they aint enough, then it is possible to upgrade them in their entirety,

Next theing now is to finish the suspension system.

P

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...41332dcd49.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9523246fa7.jpg
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Wow, nice start!!!

Just an update in case people think I gave up! I didnt!

All the work now is focussed on the broad outlines of the hull. Which is trouble as there are a lot of bits and a lot of holes. Which all need cutting and filing. But the rear deck is progressing nicely and the suspension system is finished and then I moved onto the top deck.

Which includes the much dreaded curved turret! Which is a thing I do not do as curves are really annoying and a bit difficult.

I just made the top and bottom of it and vrazed them together. Then I cut a strip of brass and after hundreds of attempts got it wrapped around the two pieces and soldered in. Not perfect but filler and patience will fill in teh gaps and dents.

There are inaccuracies....a recessed trunion is missing on the back. On purpose because there was no way that was going to easy. So its hasta la vista to that.

The next is the mantlet for the machine guns and the top bits of the turret which will both cover up a whole multitude of gaps, scratchs, dings, dents, divots and misalignments.

P

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...aab90d9acd.jpg
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7f31f2d273.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d866ab5479.jpg

That is so Cool !!!

Started on my mantlet today. Im using a piece of steel tubing with 3mm wall thickness that I split down the middle and lapped level. A 16 mm piece of aluminium half round forms the inside bit.

The machine gin mounts are 6mm silver steel bored out to 4 mm. I really have to even up the edges of teh cut slots in the tops of the shrouds. I chain drilled them out and they need filing. Next bit will the machine guns themslevs.

There are an awful lot of seams that need filling and sanding but I will get there eventually.

P
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8590aee7ba.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...328ef79bce.jpg
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Looks good.

I kinda like the drill bits. That's an awesome visual! ;)

Sorry about that! Here it is with the guns temporarily installed!

P​​​​​​​
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...27eae7a466.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...56560b0510.jpg

Great Project!

I have been busy trying to flesh out the hull on this Pz I and while not a huge job at first glance there is an awful lot of smnall bits and pieces that need making.

The rear deck is coming along nicely and I hope to finish it off next week.

Then I will try and focus on the side walls and upper deck which need attention. I also had to remake my gearbox but I will get back to that.

Asd usual...needs filler/cleaning/sanding/painting.

P
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ebe3c39af4.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...20fdc664ee.jpg
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Appreciate the update!

Looks good so far, thanks for the update!!!

I got frustrated with this so I took a few months off and started something else. Then I got frustrated with that too so I went back to this.

I started fabricating the rough mudguards both front and back. The front went OK...it needs lotsof details added but I got in a real pickle with the back ones. Mostly because I was working off these drawings:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ad584fc5b9.jpg
The front and rear swing arms on both sides have Stug/PzIII like mounts for external spring tubes. There has to be cutouts on the rear fenders for the rear mounts. On the drawings, these rear mounts are in line on both sides.

I was faffing about with these for ages as I was trying to make the spring tubes but on one side it was just not working out. I had the rear fenders fabrictaed at that point.

So I went to a "walkaround" set of phots and found out that in reality, the rear spring tube mounts are not in line on either side.....they are in different positions.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d8880d2b54.jpg

The lesson learned there is that just because a set of drawings has nice Gothic script on it...it doesnt mean its reliable at all.
So after a couple of weeks wasted work, I fitted the exhaust tube on the back, started on the ridiculous arrangement of periscopes on the turret and mounted the basic versions of the front fenders.

I also mounted the daft cable holders on the side.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...5994c311e5.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1272f2c094.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1820e98533.jpg

It looks scabbly as bejaysus right now but thats always the way at tis stage of these projects.

Hopefully I can get a bit of momentum under my wings and make some real progress.

P

great build.
Panzer I ausf F is one of my favourite tanks after I met it in Kubinka.
Although I think you have enough info, here are some pictures from Kubinka: https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/foru...?f=183&t=32405

The tank looks a kind of cute with the oversized tracks :D

Been putting it off for a while but I needed to move on the wheels. First the spoked ones.

I got some aluminium disks off the internet of the right dimensions approximately.

I then drilled 2mm holes at the apices of the holes and then drilled a big hole in the middle of them.

I cut out the remainder with a jewellers saw and then filed the holes.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4ad66b2c12.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e931b552ee.jpg

There is some work to do on them but it should be OK.
I cannot have aluminium spinning on steel axles so I made brass hibs and liners using tube silver soldered to disks. The centre hole on the disk will allow for a retaining screw.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...81d7404022.jpg

p

looking good..

After a fair bit of faffing about...I now have a full set of road wheels structurally complete if not cosmetically.
The 4 double wheels with the inverted jelly mold hubcaps had me beat after a month of trying.
I asked around and no one I know could make them without going to whole lot of trouble.

So a friend turned the basic shape for me from aluminium and put a slight concavity in the outer wheel. I then fitted the brass hubcaps as for the other wheels.
As the Tiger track is a dual horn track as opposed to the single horn on the tank, certain "compromises" have been made. Not that I care at this point.

The tires are the usual delrin rings. These need careful sanding to take the sharp edges off and make them more rubbery in appearance.

I bought this pipe to have an inner diameter the same as the OD on the wheels. I was hoping for a press fit but I didnt get one...it was a slip fit.
I used a punch to dimple the outer rims of the wheels to try and improve the fit but I will have to use some epoxy or JB Weld to either increase the diameter of the wheel by 0.1 mm or so or simply glue the tires to the rims. Either way its not a big issue.

What is a big issue is whether or not the wheels interlock without touching each other on the axles. If not....I will have to reduce the thickness of the double rimmed wheels axles but that should be doable with some strips of sandpaper and so on.

Th eidler will be from a Stug. It looks similar (spokes and all) but it may not be thick enough to fit between the Tiger track horns. I can increase the thickness of the idler if necessary...I will see how it goes.
Th esprocket is a Tiger sprocket....from my measurements this is about 3mm or 4mm to big on the radius. Whether or not that matters time will tell.

If it does, that could be a deal breaking problem.

Next I guess will be the swing arms buy I am waiting for some 5mm steel from the UK.

P

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fa9910d496.jpg

I've enjoyed your construction threads. I like your work, I find it fantastic. I can relate well with what you do and say.

In particular I can really relate to: "I got frustrated with this so I took a few months off and started something else. Then I got frustrated
with that too so I went back to this." I know this feeling well. Not always frustration though, just working on the same project for a year or two
straight with a lot of fabrication and machine work and I get burnt out on one. Seems sometimes like real work a job and I'm supposed to
be retired so I rebel. I have a slew of projects that once they looked like the intended tank that's where they've remained for many years.
Having to make everything can be fun but it's not always what its cracked up to be.

Even though I still can't build straight out of a box, the older I get the more appealing kits seem...

That all said please continue! I can enjoy someone else's scratch building 'pain' ! ;)

Jerry

I havent touched a kit since the days Airfix glue came in an uncontrollable little metal tube and all my models were covered in globs of what looked like solid glassy snot. It used to break my 12 year old heart.


I would love to try a Field of Armor metal kit one day but they seem a bit janky in terms of whether or not they are actually in business any more.

They really were an interesting approach to large scale tanks for a decent price.

P

I started work on fleshing out the fenders for the Pz I. Even for the Germans, who liked awkward-to-make mudguards on their early and mid-war tanks, these mudguards are a total b?"#¤%&d to make.

Everything was tricky to line up...... the little triangular struts had to be precisely positioned between the tow cable and the springtube mount on one side, it was hard to put a lip on them and the bends are annoying.

But the skeleton is now done and I can start adding the whole lot of other things that go on them. Like the multitude of rivets.

I also had to make the tow cables as no commercially available set were short enough or thin enough to loop around the holders.

Onwards and upwards.

P

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2eb8eb09f7.jpg
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