finished first tank
 

well I finished my first tamiya build EVER. It had been at least 10 years since i built a model. on top of that I really never painted/weathered. So basically this was my first completed project. I know it does not compare to everyone elses fine work, but meh, i have to start somewhere. any input is greatly appricated for I KNOW i have PLEANTY of room for improvement. thank you in advance for the comments. Now its time to start planning/collecting add ons for my jagdpanther before i start that build.

Keep on tanking

P.S any info on better hiding the decal outline is greatly appriciated. I know i could us top BUT when i tried that on a spare piece of plastice with the weathering materials, it dampened it and it did not have the dust effect i was looking for, course if you know a better technique for sealing it i would LOVE to know that as well.

RE: finished first tank
 

You did a very nice job on the tank,[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif] The nice thing about this hobby is as you see or learn a mod that someone else has done, you can add it to your tank later, there is always days when you have finished your last build and just need to do something new to the old build, it will never stop.:D

Gary

RE: finished first tank
 

looks great!!!

awesome job!!

RE: finished first tank
 

to help eliminate the "silvering" as it is called, decals should be applied over a gloss base. Silvering is caused by air being trapped under the decal when applied to matt or semi-matt paint. You can use gloss paint or apply glosscoat to the area where you want the decal to be. After the decal is applied to the gloss area and has set you then over spray the area with dullcoat then do your weathering. Also the use of decal setting solutions like "Solveset" will also allow the decal to "snuggle" down to the surface and also helps decals match the surface detail under the decal. But be sure to follow the directions when useing these solutions and don't be tempted to press out any wrinkles that form while the solution is working this normal they will flatten out.

RE: finished first tank
 

so it is better to prep the area, apply the decal, dull coat it, then do the weathering?? I forgot step 1 and 3.. lol. at least i know for next time. thanks for the info, will defenatly try that next time.

RE: finished first tank
 

Also there is a difference between water slide decals and the rub-down type. Some of the rub-down type may not have a clear carrier film and this may be caused by the tyope of adhesive they have used. Now Letraset decals are a bit different than the HL type decals as they have no carrier film and are a bit different to apply.NEVER!!!! use decal setting solutions on HL type or Letraset decals, but do apply them to a gloss surface for maximum adhesion. The smoother the surface the less "silvering" will occure

RE: finished first tank
 

Always weather after the decals have been applied and dullcoated, that way the markings will appear to be there before the tank aged

RE: finished first tank
 

I was kind of thinking to acually paint the markings on my next build. only thing is making the stencils for the markings. The numbers I can figure out. its the crosses im a little meh about. maybe making one for the just the cross then one just for the white border. its just getting the right size. maybe scan the decal sheet and print it on stencil paper.

RE: finished first tank
 

Nice job Erik...

Take this as a compliment: the wheels and back of the tank - is that painted on or actual dirt weathering? Looks like your tank has taken a few laps around Ft. Benning, Georgia!

RE: finished first tank
 

Here is an example of decals over gloss coat. My Tiger was painted, gloss coated, decaled, gloss coated over the decals again, and then dull coated over all to achieve the painted on look.

http://web.mac.com/ethandunsford/DAK...ON_131.html#37

RE: finished first tank
 

I used mig pigment (european dust) as I was applying it, there was a little grease around the turret area, when the pigment hit it, i looked like mud. I was like "WOW that looks good, I wonder" I took the rest of the grease i had and brushed it on in areas, then applyed the pigment. I brushed and dabbed to get the slashed and splotched on look of the mud. only things is that since it is grease, it wont dry all the way. I just need a way to seal it so it stays that way and not rub off.

RE: finished first tank
 

yeh we get this at work when we laminate stuff when using vinyl on a rough surface. It dose come out in time, and it dose help when the item is in sunlight and it melts the laminate into the cracks and imperfections.

RE: finished first tank
 

you think maybe if i take a hair dryer to it it might get rid of the silvering, or at least make it less noticable???

RE: finished first tank
 

At work when we get it 'Bad' we use a squeegee and hair dryer and that takes it out. I would use a soft cotton bit of material wrapped around something hard and square like credit card. gently heat up the area and gently rub over the improvised squeegee and repeat until your satisfied.

That's how we solve vinyl errors on Banners,Boards,Vehicles and laminate.

RE: finished first tank
 

instead of grease, use modelling putty or just plain plastic glue to form small globs that stick out...when it dries, paint it muddy. Let it pile up on top of road wheel mounting hardware, shocks etc, where mud would tend to collect, if you want muddy suspension. . That red dirt looks like the famous Ft Knox red clay....man that stuff is hard to get off[:'(]

RE: finished first tank
 

the easiest way IMHO to make crusted on mud is to get a tin of humbrol 27 and some powdered wall filler.
mix the powder with the paint and apply to the areas you want Ie roadwheels,mudgaurds and the like
works everytime for me:D:D:D:D

nice tiger by the way;):D:D:D:D:D

Rob