Dawman

My Feedback: (33)

Hi , I just picked up a LSP and curious what you guys are running for diff oils . The guy I got it from changed all the diff gears to Kyosho gears . This is the first truggy that I will race .

noximus

the common diff set up is 7k front, 10k center, 3k OR 5k in the rear..

if you are running a 528, i suggest running something like 20k in the center..and make sure your diffs are shimmed properly.

here is a set up sheet you can print out and use for your own reference:
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/p...setupsheet.pdf

here is a nice set up reference you can refer to, you can tweak some areas to your own preference, but this set up is generally a good one..i tried it once..its pretty nice.

Front:
------

shock Oil.............. Mugen 800wt
Pistons.......... 1.4x2 Kyosho Teflon pistons
Spring........... Stock black springs
Ride height ..... Bones level
Shock pos........ Inside on arm, Upper Middle on tower
Shock ends....... Racers Edge 3.0mm Aluminum (longer)
Shock travel..... Quite a bit limited, probably 4-5mm
Ackerman pos..... Front
Sway bar......... Stock 3.0mm
Front Caster..... 17 Degrees
Upper arm pos.... Middle Bottom
Lower arm mount.. 2 degree (King Headz Option)
Diff oil......... 7000wt
Camber........... -2 degrees
Toe.............. -2 degrees out per side
Tires............ Pro-Line Crime Fighter MT
Foams............ Racers Edge MAXX Multi-Stage Foams (uncut)
Wheels........... Pro-Line 23mm HD Maxx Standard Offset
Hubs............. Dace Manufacturing 23mm Hex Adapters

Center:
-------

Diff............. 10000wt
Brakes........... Kyosho fiber brake disk
Spur Gear........ 50 tooth
Clutch Bell...... 14 tooth
Clutch Shoes..... Hot Bodies carbon (untrimmed)
Clutch Springs... Hot Bodies 1.0mm
Engine........... Novarossi 528XR
Cooling Head..... Stock
Tuned pipe....... OFNA Jammin JP-2
Fuel............. Sidewinder world's blend, 30%
Glow plug........ O’Donnell 97T
Radio............ JR Z-1 Synthesized (75Mhz)
Steering Servo... JR DZ8800T
Throttle Servo... JR DZ8800T

Rear:
-----

shock Oil.............. Mugen 700wt
Pistons.......... 1.4x2 Kyosho Teflon pistons
Spring........... Stock black springs
Ride height ..... Bones level
Shock pos........ Inside on arm, Upper Middle on tower
Shock ends....... Racers Edge 3.0mm Aluminum (longer)
Shock travel..... Quite a bit limited, probably 10mm
Upper arm pos.... Middle Bottom
Arm pos hub...... Inside Hole
Camber........... -2
Antisquat........ +1 degrees (King Headz Option)
Toe in........... 59mm (3 degrees)
Diff oil......... 2000wt
Sway bar......... Stock 3.0mm
Wing position.... Flat
Tires............ Pro-Line Crime Fighter MT
Foams............ Racers Edge MAXX Multi-Stage Foams (uncut)
Wheels........... Pro-Line 23mm HD Maxx Standard Offset
Hubs............. Dace Manufacturing 23mm Hex Adapters

you can also see if any steering modifications was actually done to your kit, if not, something simple as putting a dremmel to your C-hubs will help out...you can also see if you would want to double up on your ackerman..also you can buy some offset STR steering ball ends that will totally clear any rubbing issues..and you will be able to run zero offset which will give you plenty...you can also change over to 17mm if your kit doesnt come with..its a cheap mod, costs about 30 bucks to do a total change over..a little more for CVD's all around.

there is gobs of hop ups you can add to your LSP that is cheap..go to this index, it has tons of tips listed that can be benificial..

http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/in...p?showtopic=45

congrats on your first truggy..have some fun!

Dawman

My Feedback: (33)

Thanks for the info . It has King Headz parts all over it . Braces , knuckles , ackerman , and a few other parts . I will definetly get the Racers Edge shock ends . I was always breaking the stock ones on my first LSP . He also put cvds all around , looks like he set it up pretty good and raced it . I just have no idea what shock and diff oils are in it . Figure I`d start fresh .

noximus

i have found the king headz ackerman to be problematic..it rubs against the servo saver..i would just double up on your steering ackerman..easy very cheap and durable.

check you C-hubs..see if he already dremeled out the area that comes in contact with your steering knuckle.

forgot to add, if you were breaking your shock ends..thats usually a case of not using your droop screws.

800screws

just ordered the stadium pro rtr. anything i need to do before i run it? i know the hellfire's u have to loctite...anything like that with the lsp?

noximus

first off, congrats on your truggy purchase!

just like with ANY rtr..break it down and rebuild it...i had to apply blue locktight to the small engine mount screws..i also had to apply blue locktight to the screws that come in through the bottom of the chassis that screw into your diff housing..actually, i say apply blue locktight to any screw that comes up through the chassis..as they tend to take some abuse.

what i also did was change out those screws for a tiny tad bit longer ones that were also of better grade. too bad hot bodies is doing construction to their site..or else i could show you exactly what i am talking about in the manual.

also change your diff oil..what comes stock is basicly nothing from what i have been hearing..you can use what was suggest above.

but also, after you run about 5 tanks of fuel through your kit, re shim your diffs..change out your shock oil as well..

what you can do and what i suggest is changing out your steering ball ends..your stock ones will rub since the stock rims are standard offset...what i did was install the STR ball ends and i ran my kit using zero offset with 14mm rims and 17mm rims..didnt have to cut the rims or do any modifications after i installed those ball ends..they come close..but i had no issues of anything rubbing after i installed those ball ends. here they are:

also i suggest putting a dremel to your C-hubs which will allow you to get more steering and wont put as much stress on your C-hubs as well.

you can also do the 17mm conversion, but i say run your stock rims/tires down before you look into changing over to 17mm..

Also, dont wrench down on those lock nuts that hold the wheels on..they are lock nuts..they need to be tight..but not so much so..i know allot of people who wrenched on those bad boys really hard and ended up breaking either their rims or their stub axels.

last but not least..the LSP comes with a 6065 aluminum chassis..not like the LSP-R that comes with the 7075 chassis..i suggest to buy the 7075 chassis which can be brought on EBAY for around 30 to 40 dollars..

basicly the only thing i would buy getting the LSP, is those ball ends, 7075 chassis..and dremel your C-hubs and blue lock tight!, whats optional is the 17mm conversion..and if you go to that index i already posted..you will find a tons of hop up options for your LSP...

also, will you be using the stock engine? if so, i suggest using this break in method: http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

even if you are buying a totally different engine, that break in procedure i think is great for any engine.

sorry for the novel..but i hope it will help you out some how..

800screws

no, i appreciate it. in fact i'm pretty new to rc's, so this will help

noximus

kewl..if you run into any other issues..you can come here or hit up truggyracers.com..

also..not sure if your kit will come with..but allot of people have ben having problems with their rear diffs..if you think you have it shimmed correctly and you continue to have problems..you can change the rear diff to kyosho gears..which are basicly dead cheap..so you might want to change it anyhow..here are the part numbers if you wish:

IF103 diff case- 5.99

KYOBS107 internal bevel shafts- 5.99

KYOIF101 f/r outdrive shafts- 8.49

IF102 diff bevel set- 5.25

KYOIF39 internal differential shafts- 2.75

that right there will give you a complete kyosho rebuild to your rear diff..the only thing you would need to use is the stock ring gear.

i havent found the need to use them yet..i tried them before, and they felt great..but i am still using the stock hardened diff gears. but in case they go bad on you, try those and MAKE sure you shim your diffs correctly..

800screws

if u do the 17mm hex conversion the rear axles fit where the dog bone goes?

noximus

well what do you want to do with your rear? do you want to keep the rear dog bones, or do you want to conver it to CVD's? if you want to keep your stock dogbones in the rear, then you will need to replace your rear hubs with these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HBSC8065&P=7

or what i did, i just installed CVD's all around. the dogbones generate too much play. i used the sportwerks axels, as the KMW axels work fine, but damn, they are expensive in comparison.

800screws

yeha, i'm putting cvd's all around. i ordered all the parts, just wondering if the mayhem axles just slide into the rear hubs or do i need something else?

noximus

alright, i think you are making it more difficult than what it really is. the "conversion" is just changing from 14mm CVD's to 17mm CVD's. all you are basicly doing is swapping out your CVD's...its not so much a conversion, just an upgrade. you dont have to do any mods, you dont have to use the stock hub axels or anything...its rather really simple.

Revo_Madness

Hi guys...

I am expecting this week an LSP and although I have been racing my old Revo for 2 years and now moving up into truggy I need to better understand how to shim the diffs, any pics or graphics will be greatly appreciated.

thanks to all for posting all this info here.

RcRacer37E

Happen to have a pic of the C-hub dremeled? I picked mine up from ebay, so Im not all sure what has been modded or still stock. This truggy is great, just doesnt turn, Im running a JR8417 servo and need more turn.

800screws

also is there anywhere posted, pics and the instructions on shimming the diffs and changing the fluid?

RcRacer37E

What about these [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXMVX9]Ofna Torsen Differential Front/Rear 43T [/link]? Anyone running with them? I just ordered 2 and was wondering how much it helps over stock.