outlawti

Hello fellas i was looking at the jammin ready to run truggy. Its around 500.00 can this truck be taken to the track and raced and be competive with the kits. If not im going to be a revo as the mt class is less competive im not wanting to put 2000.00 into a car im just want to have fun but i dont want to get smoked either thats no fun either

age

Personally the jammin rtr is probably one of the best RTR truggies to hit the market. It can hang with anyhing out there, if not - beat it. If you do consider getting this truck, MAKE SURE you get the CNC chassis braces as a number one priority, and also change out the radio gear. The engine has PLENTY of grunt to move the truck past its competitors. I currently am running the jammin pro kit, and i think its one of funnest r/c's i have ever owned. You can't go wrong IMHO.

outlawti

thanks a lot buddy do you have a part number for those suggested hopups. I already have a spektrum radio so i will just add a receiver. Thanks a lot for the info it was between this and a revo.

age

Im always happy to help out! the part number is OFN40694 and amain has them in-stock.http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4457 PLUS THE JAMMIN WON TRUCK OF THE YEAR in RCCARACTION! [>:]

Haulin bass

LOL truck of the year means about the same in RC as with real trucks(jack-squat).Anyways if you have a good radio allready dont even waste your time with RTR junk, Build the kit and do it once buy the rtr and buy twice, your choice.

modojojo

You don't have to have the prokit especially If It's your first venture Into nitro/truggies. The RTR w/force.28 Is well capable of keeping up with all current truggies Prokits or rtr's. The only thing you need to change are the chassis braces, And even If you just change the chassis braces It's still a lot cheaper than the prokit.

Rob6

Yeah thats why i went with the RTR..

RedBaron8

I was cosistantly the 2nd. fastest guy at the track with my RTR CRT. Put on the machined braces and changed the oil in the diffs. The motor runs great. If you can drive it and tune it, you can run with a prokit.

deesnider

very little differences with the rtr and pro, i concidereing the jammin and doing all my homework beforehand. my freind has the pro and we compred the rtr to pro not alot of difference's. prolly gonna go the rtr version.was gonna get the kyosho but herd it has front diff probs and the a arms break alot fyi

WPGguy

I run a RTR thats been massivly upgraded in every way except the chassis.... and i do ok, i just suck at driving. (but still 1st in points)

noximus

i think any truggy can be competitive, the question is, can you? if you cant keep your trug on the track for more than 5 laps, then whats the use of doing any upgrades? all the upgrades in the world and the baddest and fastest engine in the world wont keep your truggy on the track, it wont teach you how to pick your lines, it wont teach you how to eat the corners, pass other drivers, learn throttle control, steering control, set up, shock oil, diff oil, tires/rims, camber, toe, there are a TON of things to learn at the cost of damn near nothing that i think are more important than worrying about upgrades without even driving your kit on a track. JMHO.

pick which truggy YOU like best, drive it, see where your downfalls are and go from there.

Tazer_version_A

Yes - if you have skills and can keep the truck on the tires - it will run good.

Deesnider ... there are boatloads of valuable upgrades on the pro kit that arent on the RTR... to say very little differences ... IMHO is innaccurate. Perhaps those differences dont mean all that much to you - but to many people - those differences will add up to real money - quickly ... nearly $500 worht of good upgrades.

Especially ...

the chassis - $49
the shock towers - $50
the ball bearing - everything .. ackerman, brake cams - $45
CENTER CHASSIS Braces - $50
Threaded Hinge Pins
Graphite radio tray and diff top plate - which in this application is better than the stock STAMPED alum.
CNC Hinge Pin Holders ....
CNC Ackerman slider with Ball BEarings ....

Anyhow - you'll end up spending the money on the parts eventually - and usually sooner than you think - IMO - your far better served getting the Pro Kit ...

Pay now - or wrench all the time AND Pay Later.

Dark8ngel

No need for a chassis or shock tower upgrade either. Have not damaged either in 5 months of practise and racing with the cnc chassis braces..

Here is a post I have on another thread.....

I am still running my CRT RTR in the Minnesota Offroad Nitro Series and I was in 3rd in the UMT Pro class, just behind 2nd by 2pts. in the overall points. That will change after this weekend for I was unable to attend the 5th leg of the series this weekend do to work, good news is tho they have 2 throw outs. So should only drop to 4th in points going into the 6th leg, not bad for an RTR!

The only changes I did to make it race worthy were the cnc chassis braces(comes in pro kit), Z brace(option part for both, just intalled it because it came in a parts lot, from a kit Homer was parting out), removed the roto start and added the normal backplate(I had an extra 1/8 starter box) and installed my extra spektrum receiver and a extra steering servo I had for my 1/8 buggy.

I also run the Werks clutch(6051 I think) on the the Force .28. Been using this for the last 3 races( 1 1/2 years in my buggy and only had to change the shoes once!) and and it's by far better then any 3 shoes I have used to date

The Force .28 has ran like a champ from day one, in all types of weather under race conditions. I am just starting on the 5th gallon and the motor is still tight! Running time is about 7 mins temping at 220-230 under race conditions on the 7 different tracks in the series, mc8 plug using a 20% race blend and a old extra O.S 2050 pipe.

I have been running the CRT RTR since the middle of February and have broken a front bumper, a front lower arm and now a dog bone at the 4th leg of the series in a qualifying run, I had the uni's as a back up. Amazed on how well the dog bones held over the months of running, but then again I'm not a lawn dart driver either, so the probably helps...lol

So I sold the rtr pipe, tires, roto start, fuel bottle, radio gear and glow igniter. Which then paid for my cnc chassis braces, crimefighters and all the spare parts to get me racing.

Which in my case, saved me $100's over buying the pro kit.

I went with the CRT RTR to show begining racers at the club level they could compete on the club level and higher with a CRT RTR with the proper setup and practise and save $100's over the pro kits.