Racing T

so how bad the stock rtr clutch shoes are suppose to look after a few tanks? I have only ran my 8ight-t for about 10 tanks and they alredy look pretty wear out, I know the pics are bad but it was difficult to get them right without the parts reflecting the flash.

cherokee180c

I blew through mine in less than a gallon. But that was because the bearings in the clutch bell locked up and took out the clutch. The losi bearings are so bad, they might as well be bushings. I replaced the bearings with aftermarket ones and then replaced the shoes with the Dynamite Max life that everyone brags about. Make sure you Dremel the ends of the pins to a bit of a point or you will have a hell of a time getting the pins back into the flywheel. I have not run it yet, other than just in my driveway, but the clutch hits much earlier and smoother. I used 2 gold and 2 silver springs, with all aluminum shoes. My next task is to build an entirely complete spare flywheel with Max life shoes for backup.

Make sure you pickup some rear outer hinge pins as well. If yours have not bent yet, they will soon. What does everyone recommend for aftermarket pins? I am not sure anybody makes anything that good, so I may have a machinist friend of mine make some out of hardened spring tool steel.

Racing T

really? it bend that easy??

jones81

what do you guys think of the jr9100s for a steering servo? it has 180oz of torque with a lightning fast .06sec on 6v.

IL2mSturmovik

Impressive servo, gets my vote!

fsbb33

My Feedback: (5)

ive been doing a lil research on a new engine for my .21... i thought i had it figured out. i really want the new GRp .21 but i duno if the budget will allow. so what do you guys think of the jammin jpx .21 and the go tech 21 5 or 21 7? let me know nething you know!

slayerphonics

Not good for steering on a truggy, you would be better off using a 9100T

INTEGRA

X2....thats a Throttle servo...Not Steering.......S means Speed.....T means Torque....ive heard of guys thinkin its the other way around.

u1arunit

I think people are thinking that S means Steering and T means Throttle. lol

Silverfang

I have heard a few people say that as well. Had me believeing it when I first started in RC, till some one at the track asked why my servos were installed oppsit lol.

slayerphonics

I bet he had himself a good chuckle seeing a 9100T for the throttle,

RoadRash19

Thats pretty much how mine looked. But my center diff had 1/3-1/2" groove worn in it from a rock getting in there. So I think that burned mine up. We'll see. I ended up putting the King Headz in because thats what my LHS stocks, using 2 gold/2 silver springs. I also replaced both bearings. I didn't get to run this weekend, so the new clutch only has 2 tanks on it (but I pulled the clutch bell, and everything looks really good in there). I'm going to change the offsets in the hinge pin braces to what Integra recommended a page back before I run it again (hopefully tomorrow).

If you got the rtr make sure you adjust the throttle servo according to the insert. And, double check the steering endpoints, mine were off. I burned up the stock throttle servo by about tank 6 because I didn't do that. It a cheap servo, but I don't think it would of burnt up that fast if I'd adjusted the thing right from the start.

Since I don't think the RTR is very well adjusted out of the box, I want to also check toe in/out on the front/rear. Anyone have a link or method for doing that. I had no idea how to do that, but it'd be nice to check it now, and know how to do it in the future.

cherokee180c

Let me tell you, I am impressed as hell with the GoTech 21 7 port I got from Modhobbies.com. The guys at that store have access to all kinds of motors but they use the Gotechs themselves and recommended it to me. They just came back from a big pro race in Florida a week ago and Jon finished 7th in the A main with the Gotech. I just completed my first race back in the sport with my son after being out of it totally for 20 years and I won the Amain. I also completed one lap that was as fast as any lap completed last year by local drivers. The motor is as fast on our track with a losi 8T as the OS .28's, at least on the straight away. The OS 28 seemed a little more torquey though the turns, but the power band on the .21 Gotech is very smooth. Just be prepared for a motor with a ton of pinch from the factory. It took me 1.5 hours to get it started the first time, even using a hair dryer to heat it up to 200 degrees as it kept getting stuck at TDC. Even after the sixth tank of gas it still got stuck at TDC one last time. It was extremely tight. I can not speak to how well they last yet, but with the originals so affordable and the fact that the piston and sleeve are very affordable for a rebuild, I am going to stay with this engine for a while. A very satisfied GoTech customer so far. Now hopefully it will last for 8 gallons or more.

I just ordered the M2C 5/32" hinge pins. I will let everyone know how they perform after I install and run it for a while. And yes the stock hinge pins are like butter. If you don't think yours are bent, the symptom that you may notice while driving is that the rear end of the truggy will want to bounce up way high over the front. I found out mine were bent before the race and straightened it with a single light tap from a hammer before racing. The rear end bouncing problem was very pronounced and easy to notice. It was amazing how light the tap was to bend the pin back straght. They are junk.

Styk97

Finally finished breaking in my engine and i started to tune the engine. It is still running really rich and I cant believe how awesome this truck is. I cant wait to get this thing on the track.

Nordy

When I got my RTR last week, the LHS told me to buy spare clutch and bearings which are now sitting on the side waiting for something to fail.

Can anyone tell me what they would buy in Hop Up's for the RTR model? I want to make sure the darn thing is strong and doesn't break like some of my older cars when they hit something.

slayerphonics

Buy the ***. hinge pins, metal shock caps, alloy back brace

should be good

pmr

[>:]Anybody got tips to help out with our clutch bearing issue. There are about 7 8T's in our track and we pretty much toast our clutch bearings every 10 tanks. We average about 10-12 tanks per session. Our track is technical with only about 4 jumps. We are getting so frustrated with this particular problem that some of the guys are about to quit. We've invested so much in this 8t that we cant afford to try a different brand just to see if the the clutch bearing issue is better. The buggy guys dont have the same problem since they finese their thottle cuz the buggys tend to be twicthy in our track. Really appreciate tips from somebody who race the 8T. How often do you change shoes, clutch bearings and also the diff housing?

slayerphonics

My first set of bearings lasted me 3 gallons, Then I starte dgoing through them like crazy,

Problem is your clutch is prolly sliping and creating MEGA heat.

Make sure your gear mesh is not to tight

I also lost bearings more when i switched to a 14t bell

So, I switch back to the 13, got all of the play out of the bell (sliding back and forth, took like 4 or 5 shims)
got my gear mesh right on(You should be able to roll your truck across the ground and pick up and the wheels keep durning, meaning nothing is binding)

Bearings blowing is a sign of your clutch needing something work, new shoes, springs that kinda thing,

I also found when i used the 14t bell, my clutch was slipping so bad it turned it red, and I think it warped it because it never fit on right after that so i junked it

Silverfang

If the bearings are over heating would a vented clutch bell help? have not raced my 8t yet, but I would think it would help with over heating as an adition to the rest of the sugestions.

slayerphonics

Possibly, but the slipping clutch would the root of the problem,

The stock shoes like to mushroom out and require you to file them down

IL2mSturmovik

The fix for clutch bearings wearing excessively seems to be teh king heads extended engine mount, which keeps teh mesh from changing from flex and putting undue wear on teh bearings.

ASATRUGGYFAN

2ND that on the motor mount bought my 8ight-T used put new bearings in when I bought it put the King Headz mount on now over 3 gallons on them no problems.

cherokee180c

The king heads mount comment may have a lot of validity, but I don't have one. I did immediately switch away from the Losi bearings, however, and bought the Dynamite max life clutch shoes and used 2 gold and 2 silver springs. I am very happy with that clutches performance over stock, but only have one race day on it so far, so no comment on logevity. There is a big improvement in performance, however, and I would recommend it over the stock setup anyway.

Can anybody comment if the Losi quick change motor mount offers the same benefit as the Kings with regard to chasis flex reduction? The King headz one is just so expensive.

INTEGRA

cherokee180c...get the KH mount...the losi is a Pain in the rear....the pins are a litttle on the tall side....causing some greif when removing...especially when dirty...the KH all around is worth the extra couple $$.

IL2mSturmovik

Agreed, now I just need to figure out how to install the KH ext mount and servo tray stiffener without my wife noticing I got them, lol