j_blaze

good luck boiling off those tries, I tried it and the wheel melted before the glue so now I have 3 stock wheel/tires and a really shaky one.

giddyuperic

You know I went into this buying what I thought was a good truggy and I will give them kudos on the platform over all the chassie is good to go and the braking system is the best that I have ever had. But when you ad up all the things that I have had to change on it I might as well as saved my money and bought a 8ight t losi RTR. I have put a new power plant in it and servos all the way around and radio system and rims and tires. And now my practice tires are shot junk foam comming out like water and now I did not clean them with running water, and the rear diff bevel gears are gone. And the tank went bad to. They have help here and there and I thank them for that but I think this is it I can't take the penny here, ten dollars here, and a hundred here. It is just to much. I own a Losi muggy and I went with the 17mm hubs and GRP tires and rims and the thing is solid as a rock . I don't know what else to say

j_blaze

...you mean that foam dust isn't supposed to be in coming out? I think mine was doing that when I opened the box. I probably would have done the 8t too if I had known it came with the dx, I went out and bought one for the vtx, about $180, with the truck thats $590 + servos, tires, few spare parts....almost $700, how much for that 8ight? But if I had gotten the 8 I would have spent another few bills on upgrades or pimp outs, bodies, tires, pipe...$1000. I'm still very happy, I took out the bevel gear that I thought had stripped and it was missing the shims, threw those in and it runs good as new, the gears were slipping under force, didn't need to order after all, but I got them just in case. But I was so happy about the fix I missed a huge jump and broke the plastic piece that holds the upper arm in the front left. Fix that tomorrow am.

giddyuperic

Cool man. Can you post some photo's of the shims you put in the diff ? And did you do it to the front center and the rear? I think I aded it all up and it comes out about the same price and maybe you could buy some fuel and maybe the shock towers for the RTR one. But you know I have my VTX set up just right and it stops on a dime and as massive power and I think it could hang with the big boy's. The RTR 8ight t goes for $599.29 at hobby town here local and you ad fourty for the thicker shock towers and if you want to up grade the chassie that's about 80 bucks I think?. But I am sticking with my VTX ST-1 and maybe down the line I will get one or if someone buys it for me then that's a diffrent story. It will be funny to see how many people who have ran out and bought one, they will be showing up at the tracks pretty soon.[sm=lol.gif]

j_blaze

Heres the shims next to a quarter, they are the spares I had from my raze/H7 buggy. I think I used 4 in the rear and 2 in the front. They go over the outdrive on the crown gear side of the diff. When you slide the diff in they push the whole diff closer to the bevel gear making a better mesh. I took apart the diff to go to the hobby shop and do some comparing of parts but I noticed the teeth on both gears were fine, very little wear and not a lot of steel dist mixed in the grease either. I'll still order 2 whole diff sets, 1 center and one front/rear to have for spares, also a couple sets of internal gears. Hope that helps.

giddyuperic

There was no photo's in your post?

j_blaze

Thats weird, let me try again... I just remembered, one of my tires didn't even have foam when I got it out of the box!

j_blaze

Whats this? Looks like probably direct parts fit, I've ordered parts from them before, very reasonable.

http://www.redcatracing.com/itemdeta...partno=MONSOON

z400racer

my dad and uncle run ahobby shop and got some in and me and my cusin ran one and its good but u have to buy ofna buggy knuckles cus they stock ones will strip out and thats it its a fast truck it has teh cen matrix motor and handles great

coololdude

The VTX in action......

vega3410

Why would you buy OFNA knuckles? I bought Mugen....Much better...

coololdude

more pic's....

j_blaze

Eewwh, that one uses those crappy aluminum knucles, not the pbs? Thats a step down right there. Maybe not a direct parts fit, or they'll have some better parts in the hopups. Those look like mutilator knuckles too.

Kemo

the redcat truggy is completely different than the vtx st1

giddyuperic

Ran into a slower driver just a little too fast today at the track whoops!!!!!!!!!!!!

j_blaze

Yes, after a closer look they are different, suspension, shock towers, laydown steering servo, not close at all, I retract that statement.

lsurber

I have been experiencing the fuel delivery problems for a month now! I have pulled the tank to test pressure and it holds hery tight......So tight it would probably blow the line off the nipple before it leaked! That is not the problem! I'm beginning to wonder if the air in the fuel is caused by the tank mounts vibrating. It is only held by 2 screws, not 3 like other tanks I have seen.......this could cause a high frequency vibration introducing air bubbles in the line! Will try removing the tank and stacking sticky tape to the bottom area so as to cure this! Will post results!

j_blaze

Theres orings at the bottoms of the top screws that help with the vibration, if thats the cause they may be too tight. Have you replaced the fuel line to the carb, mine cracked right before the nipple and it took me about 2 tanks to find it, good thing I had the truck spotless that day cause if it was dirty I never would have found it.

lsurber

Well, I went home and had another go at it! Looks as though the tank vibration is no more than most,,,,,,,fuel dances when engine is running. I have had the tank out 2 times so far and haven't found anything wrong! After running 1 gallon of fuel and 10 glow plugs I have determined the reason it wants to get hot and die is not a tank issue but a engine issue. Took the engine down and it is not broke in yet!!!! Never seen an engine take this long to break in! I suspected this because I was so rich that I could hold my finger in front of exhaust for a few seconds and it would be dripping with oil.......very rich, but the temp was outa sight and popped another plug!

I am going to let this thing idle through about another quarter gallon of fuel and then replace the rod, wrist pin, and retainer. I think this engine has potential! If it can live this long while running so hot it has to be pretty well built! I just NEVER had an engine so tight that this has happened before!

vega3410

Contact VTX on your motor issue. I did and they sent me a new one. The one they sent me is a different version than the one I have. I have run about 10 tanks through it and used 1 glow plug. This motor flys in this truck. I think it runs better than my VTX buggy.

giddyuperic

What do you mean by a different motor.Does the case say 25 on it, if so then it is the same as the other one only the case says 25 and the piston is from a 26 that's it if not can you post some pics of it? As I have gone threw two of the vetex 26 and the one with the case from 25. So can you please post some pics of the motor you are talking about? Thanks

lsurber

Well, the motor didn't make it! Lost the wrist-pin, piston, and rod! I have never experienced this with an engine before! If you don't realize what is going on with these engines immediately you are gonna end up with parts! They are way too tight from the onset!

I did email VTX and hopefully they will take care of me. I really didn't expect the motor to be great for the price I paid. I just wanted the car because of it's design with captured pins!

I put a ported mach 26 from my LST in the buggy and it rips! The mach is a great engine for the price but has a troublesome one-way bearing.

vega3410

The old motor said Team vertex plus 26 on it the new says 25.

giddyuperic

Yea that's what they sent me for the 3rd time still in the box have not even fired it up. I hope it works for you? it is a 25 case and a 26 piston and rod. So keep us posted on how well it does?

j_blaze

Wait, I cn send the 26 back? I replaced the conrod, does that count or should I send the engine with the broken rod in it? I never thought to check for any warranty.