sn00p

Just got back home with my cradock discs, do i have to remove the brake pads i.e bare back to metal???or leave the pads in situ??? and also do you ruf the discs up remeber im talking fibre not the original metal discs.

many thanks

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, get rid of the pads, they're supposed to be applied directly to the metal.

sn00p

how do you guys go about getting the pads off the metal??? sorry for the newb Q's right now i just turned the pads round so im metal on fibre but i guess i really need to remove the pad material

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

You could just sand it, or tear it off and sand it a bit.

The metal ones I had didn't have any pads on them.

jaywax

You will have to buy new metal ones. Mugen and Kyosho fit. You will have to dremel a wider hole in both to fit properly. If not they will not slide back and forth smoothly. They only cost about $8.

j_blaze

yes, buy new ones and save those for later on if you need 'em. i'm using the losi disks in there now and they are great with 144oz torque, 164ooz next week should help when needed.

sn00p

Many Thanks for all the replies. I managed to get Kyoscho plates and swapped them out, also replaced springs with tubing and then put a hitec 645MG hi torque servo (huge torque) Result brakes still naff..... Wasnt too happy as i had now spent around £50 trying to sort the braking issue. Spoke with the guy in the shop and he mentioned about setting the links up etc to my reply of being do you think im stupid (well it turns out YES i am stupid). I noticed no matter what servo your using it only moves a small amount in the brake direction due to the trigger configuration. So i noticed that the pads where very slack on the discs. Tightened them up so i had around 1.5mm gap and Hey presto i have EXCELLENT stopping power. So for anyone else having braking issues of which ive seen so many threads just tighten the brake pads/disc mounts up up on the vertical pillars (2 screws per set of pads) to close the gap, hence the servo has to travel less to get friction and it will REALLY bite. So ive now ripped the Hitec servo back out and used that for the steering. and Put the original fast servo back in for the throttle. Put the springs back in and removed the tubbing and im now more than impressed.

Shame i wasted the money on the servo but i guess its always good to have a decent spare. I could prolly get most of my money back on ebay if i really needed as the original MG servo for the steering is fine to be honest. I also reckon you could get good results with the original discs rather than buying the cradocks (£6 for a pair) if your on a tight budget or dont have time but the cradock discs REALLY do give it a nice bite.

qaiz

Thanks for the write up sn00p

Im not really a fan of the Anti - Lock Brakes

sn00p

Precisley, I like to know i can stop on a dime IF need be.....i like a bit of back wheel skidding and dragging round the bends. I just dont understand, just back off the trigger if you like anti lock [&:]

Nice one qaizeeeeee I have a few other tips i'll post them back later. BTW im LURVING the truggy its an awesome bit of kit.

qaiz

sn00p

Did ya have to take out the servo tray too.

I cant really manage to adjust it with it on.


Im just guessing here.

Ill have to take out the radio + battery box, servo tray, and air filter.

Yeah this trucks AWSOME.!

Im still getting the Fironi Brakes, will destroy the stock ones first xD

Please post tips Im lost lol.

Thanks

sn00p

Im lazy so i just undo the brake rods by removing the stoppers on the servo end and slide rods out. Pop the rod off the carb slide (ball joint) Remove air filter. Now undo the 4 screws holding the top plate over the diff. Remove top plate followed by the brake pad towers. This will give you access to the diff so you can just pull it up and remove the centre dog bones to gain acces to the cups where the discs sit.

Make sure you screw the pad screws so you have ONLY a small 1-2mm gap to let the discs run free. Also make sure you locate propely in the slot on the base chasis. you'll see the bottom of the discs kinda sit in a channel.

Sounds difficult but really is a 10 min job to swap the discs out.

qaiz

Thanks bro.

Have ordered the racers edge super high temp brakes thingy.

Will do that when they arrive

I knew there was an easier way lol.

I had removed nearly everything, still was finding it hard/difficult to adjust.!

j_blaze

you can bend the bar back a bit and it will engage better too, seems the big ball end thing that does the pulling on the end rubs the bar at full brake and doesn't allow it to engage fully. just bend the bars so they come out and bend away from the tray about 20 degrees or so, adjust locks and you should be happy.