ZIROLI 94" P-40 WARHAWK BUILD
03-09-2012, 12:11 PM
#126
RE: ZIROLI 94
Engine area (cont)
I drilled in several 3/4" holes in the ply that makes up the engine box for ease of routing wires/fuel lines as well as drilling holes in the 2nd former from the fire wall.
I used some 1/4" thick ply to make up another box for under the engine box. This box is divided in half and will hold batteries/ignition and CG weight. Holes were also drilled in this box for wires. I also made two doors to cover the front of the box (One door would not fit into the front hole in the fuse so I cut it in half). Paper templates were, first, made to get the correct dimensions of the box.
The secondary box was epoxied, the doors screwed on and then the front fuse hatch was screwed to the fuse after some ply was epoxied to the hatch and hatch opening.
Last, and finally, the engine box was epoxied to the fuse.
I drilled in several 3/4" holes in the ply that makes up the engine box for ease of routing wires/fuel lines as well as drilling holes in the 2nd former from the fire wall.
I used some 1/4" thick ply to make up another box for under the engine box. This box is divided in half and will hold batteries/ignition and CG weight. Holes were also drilled in this box for wires. I also made two doors to cover the front of the box (One door would not fit into the front hole in the fuse so I cut it in half). Paper templates were, first, made to get the correct dimensions of the box.
The secondary box was epoxied, the doors screwed on and then the front fuse hatch was screwed to the fuse after some ply was epoxied to the hatch and hatch opening.
Last, and finally, the engine box was epoxied to the fuse.
03-12-2012, 03:00 PM
#127
RE: ZIROLI 94
Miscellaneous
Canopy frame (cont)
I cut the frame at the appropriate opening, put some of the #0X3/16" wood screws into the frame and plastic canopy to mark where the plastic canopy had to be cut. Some 1/32" thick by 3/8" wide ply was then screwed to the back half moving part of the canopy which will guide and keep the two halves of the canopy together when closed. Had to use some easysand on some defects on the canopy frame from sanding 'too much'.
Fire wall:
Some thinned epoxy was brushed over all the ply surfaces to seal it against fuel absorption.
Receiver/ignition doors:
Added some 'wings' (1/32" thick ply) to the bottom corners of the receiver door per prototype.
Magnets epoxied to the doors as well as in the door wells.
Receiver tray:
Some 3/8" square hardwood was epoxied under the cockpit to support the receiver tray.
Panel lines:
Pencil lines, first drawn onto the surfaces and then 1/32" wide chart tape put over the pencil lines.
Some .020" (0.5mm) white plastic from plastruct was used to create the amo' doors on each wing.
Some epoxy was buttered, very thinly, over one side of the plastic sheeting and taped to the wing's surface.
Canopy frame (cont)
I cut the frame at the appropriate opening, put some of the #0X3/16" wood screws into the frame and plastic canopy to mark where the plastic canopy had to be cut. Some 1/32" thick by 3/8" wide ply was then screwed to the back half moving part of the canopy which will guide and keep the two halves of the canopy together when closed. Had to use some easysand on some defects on the canopy frame from sanding 'too much'.
Fire wall:
Some thinned epoxy was brushed over all the ply surfaces to seal it against fuel absorption.
Receiver/ignition doors:
Added some 'wings' (1/32" thick ply) to the bottom corners of the receiver door per prototype.
Magnets epoxied to the doors as well as in the door wells.
Receiver tray:
Some 3/8" square hardwood was epoxied under the cockpit to support the receiver tray.
Panel lines:
Pencil lines, first drawn onto the surfaces and then 1/32" wide chart tape put over the pencil lines.
Some .020" (0.5mm) white plastic from plastruct was used to create the amo' doors on each wing.
Some epoxy was buttered, very thinly, over one side of the plastic sheeting and taped to the wing's surface.
03-12-2012, 06:47 PM
#128
RE: ZIROLI 94
Miscellaneous
Outer wings:
Panel lines completed as well as amo' doors.
Simulated ribs on ailerons using solartex.
Trim tab added to right aileron cutting a slot in the TE with a cut off disk and epoxying a 1/32" thick ply in slot.
Rudder:
Top simulated hinge added to rudder using 1/32" thick ply.
It's suppose to be mid 70's for the next several days so I want to get her ready for the second coat of primer.
Outer wings:
Panel lines completed as well as amo' doors.
Simulated ribs on ailerons using solartex.
Trim tab added to right aileron cutting a slot in the TE with a cut off disk and epoxying a 1/32" thick ply in slot.
Rudder:
Top simulated hinge added to rudder using 1/32" thick ply.
It's suppose to be mid 70's for the next several days so I want to get her ready for the second coat of primer.
03-13-2012, 11:47 AM
#129
RE: ZIROLI 94
Panel lines (cont)
Fortunately, I referenced another book to get more detail panel lines that were missing on my first reference. Liberties are taken on the bottom surfaces to align panel lines with servo hatches, when possible.
Recesses in flaps cut per prototype.
Pitot tube added where it screws into the wing to, hopefully, prevent hanger rash!
Fortunately, I referenced another book to get more detail panel lines that were missing on my first reference. Liberties are taken on the bottom surfaces to align panel lines with servo hatches, when possible.
Recesses in flaps cut per prototype.
Pitot tube added where it screws into the wing to, hopefully, prevent hanger rash!
03-13-2012, 11:49 AM
#130
RE: ZIROLI 94
Pictures continued from previous post.
Two part epoxy primer was used to shoot all the parts.
Filtered mask used even when painting out doors as this primer is pretty nasty on the body.
With mid 70's, it's nice to have the windows open in the middle of March!
Two part epoxy primer was used to shoot all the parts.
Filtered mask used even when painting out doors as this primer is pretty nasty on the body.
With mid 70's, it's nice to have the windows open in the middle of March!
03-15-2012, 08:44 AM
#131
RE: ZIROLI 94
wet sanding:
Before wet sanding, I sprayed all areas that will be chromate green: I even did the end wing ribs.
With the weather around 80, I plan on flying on Sunday so I've been PM'ing the Ziroli Dauntless and P-47 and cleaning up the trailer and detached shop. It's also that time to start working on the daughter's 90 year old house so that will slow 'plane work' down a bit.
Before wet sanding, I sprayed all areas that will be chromate green: I even did the end wing ribs.
With the weather around 80, I plan on flying on Sunday so I've been PM'ing the Ziroli Dauntless and P-47 and cleaning up the trailer and detached shop. It's also that time to start working on the daughter's 90 year old house so that will slow 'plane work' down a bit.
03-19-2012, 02:34 PM
#133
My Feedback: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: joliet, IL
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ZIROLI 94
looks good Sam. I took the same solution for getting the exhaust stack mounts to fit when you put the cowl on.....cut the glass. [8D] I was a little worried about cutting it out, but had to in order to get clearance. In the end I didn't think it was too big of a deal....but it's nice to see you did the same. The stacks look nice.
03-20-2012, 10:57 AM
#136
RE: ZIROLI 94
Thanks, Bill.
I'll be at Toledo on Friday.
================
Wet sanding (cont)
The cowl was not primed when the rest of the plane was, so I added chart tape and added the second coat of primer.
Had some defects on the center wing, so I left the chart tape on and spot added more primer to the needed areas.
I forgot to make FG frames for the rear windows and, since they are flat, I cut some .020 styrene into frames and primed them. An xacto knife and steel straight edge makes quick work of the frames.
==========
Rivets (let the fun begin!):
For me, rivets really makes the plane 'come alive'.
I'm using a 60 watt soldering pencil with a home made rivet maker by telescoping brass tubing to the desired diameter (in this case, 1/16" diameter). A brass brush is used to periodically clean out the tube from accumulated primer.
I 'eyeball' the rivets about a 1/4" apart: sometimes the rivets are not exactly straight but really not noticeable when viewed at the field as the 'eye' sees the rivets and assumes they are all straight (and if the occasional 'off' rivet is noticed, it's usually just the 'arm chair' modelers!).
This 'free hand' method makes 'rivet production' pretty fast.
Stab:
I penciled in where the ribs would be and added rivets over the ribs, besides the usual ones along the panel lines.
I'll be at Toledo on Friday.
================
Wet sanding (cont)
The cowl was not primed when the rest of the plane was, so I added chart tape and added the second coat of primer.
Had some defects on the center wing, so I left the chart tape on and spot added more primer to the needed areas.
I forgot to make FG frames for the rear windows and, since they are flat, I cut some .020 styrene into frames and primed them. An xacto knife and steel straight edge makes quick work of the frames.
==========
Rivets (let the fun begin!):
For me, rivets really makes the plane 'come alive'.
I'm using a 60 watt soldering pencil with a home made rivet maker by telescoping brass tubing to the desired diameter (in this case, 1/16" diameter). A brass brush is used to periodically clean out the tube from accumulated primer.
I 'eyeball' the rivets about a 1/4" apart: sometimes the rivets are not exactly straight but really not noticeable when viewed at the field as the 'eye' sees the rivets and assumes they are all straight (and if the occasional 'off' rivet is noticed, it's usually just the 'arm chair' modelers!).
This 'free hand' method makes 'rivet production' pretty fast.
Stab:
I penciled in where the ribs would be and added rivets over the ribs, besides the usual ones along the panel lines.
03-20-2012, 01:06 PM
#137
RE: ZIROLI 94
Rivets (cont)
Looking at pictures of the P-40, it appears that the aluminum panels overlap and rivets are placed directly over the overlap.
Thus, to keep out water, the panels are put on from the bottom up and the rivets will be above the panel lines. And, to keep wind resistance to a minimum, the panels are put on from the back to the front, thus rivets are towards the front of the panel lines (this is based on seeing some pictures of how the aluminum is attached and, extrapolating this data, assuming this logic is used for the entire plane).
I drew pencil lines where ever a former is and put a row of rivets there, again, in addition to the rivets around the panel lines.
The wing fillet is removable so I used my brass rivet maker with a piece of brass through the center to represent flat head screws.
Having a layer of primer over all parts, even the grey FG fuse, makes it easy to make impressions in the surface with the 'rivet maker'. When primer is 'shot' over the chart tape, the wet sanding usually leaves a nice layer of primer around the panel line so rivets are easily made. If sufficient primer is NOT present, your alternative is to put the rivets on AFTER painting. I've never done this (except aluminum foil) but I understand that some builders do this.
Looking at pictures of the P-40, it appears that the aluminum panels overlap and rivets are placed directly over the overlap.
Thus, to keep out water, the panels are put on from the bottom up and the rivets will be above the panel lines. And, to keep wind resistance to a minimum, the panels are put on from the back to the front, thus rivets are towards the front of the panel lines (this is based on seeing some pictures of how the aluminum is attached and, extrapolating this data, assuming this logic is used for the entire plane).
I drew pencil lines where ever a former is and put a row of rivets there, again, in addition to the rivets around the panel lines.
The wing fillet is removable so I used my brass rivet maker with a piece of brass through the center to represent flat head screws.
Having a layer of primer over all parts, even the grey FG fuse, makes it easy to make impressions in the surface with the 'rivet maker'. When primer is 'shot' over the chart tape, the wet sanding usually leaves a nice layer of primer around the panel line so rivets are easily made. If sufficient primer is NOT present, your alternative is to put the rivets on AFTER painting. I've never done this (except aluminum foil) but I understand that some builders do this.
03-21-2012, 06:11 AM
#140
RE: ZIROLI 94
Foam in a can:
I used some low expansion foam to fill in the belly pan and fronts of the gear pods to strengthen them in case of a 'belly landing'. I drilled two holes in the front balsa belly pan former for expansion, as even the low expansion stuff, 'DOES'. Gloves are needed for this stuff as the only way to remove it from skin is to 'wear it off'.
Rivets (cont)
I got one outer wing mostly done.
I found a factory picture of the fuse before it's painted so I could see where all the rivets are so I added more rivets to the fuse (wish the book had the same for the wing!).
I used some low expansion foam to fill in the belly pan and fronts of the gear pods to strengthen them in case of a 'belly landing'. I drilled two holes in the front balsa belly pan former for expansion, as even the low expansion stuff, 'DOES'. Gloves are needed for this stuff as the only way to remove it from skin is to 'wear it off'.
Rivets (cont)
I got one outer wing mostly done.
I found a factory picture of the fuse before it's painted so I could see where all the rivets are so I added more rivets to the fuse (wish the book had the same for the wing!).
03-21-2012, 10:59 AM
#141
RE: ZIROLI 94
Rivets (cont)
For the cowl, I used the 'screw head' brass tubing and spaced them about a 1/2" apart. I also used it on the amo' doors (one side). The outer and center wings are done.
Foam:
I cut away the waste in the pods and belly pan.
For the cowl, I used the 'screw head' brass tubing and spaced them about a 1/2" apart. I also used it on the amo' doors (one side). The outer and center wings are done.
Foam:
I cut away the waste in the pods and belly pan.
03-21-2012, 03:48 PM
#143
RE: ZIROLI 94
Thanks, Casey.
I keep on 'trucking'.
=====================
Stab to fuse:
Now that I've got the stab and fuse wet sanded and all panel lines and rivets added, it's time to secure the stab to the fuse.
The usual procedure:
mount gear, mount wing to plane, put on level ground, measure equal distance from wing tip to stab tip and stab to ground, insure stab is parallel with wing, etc.
There's not much room to route wires so I, first, installed the extensions from the servo bays to the center stab holes (that was hard to do, even, before installing the stab to the fuse!).
I used an acid brush to force epoxy between the stab and fuse on the external surfaces.
After that dried, I taped the top half of the stab to the fuse and added evercoats easysand and pulled the tape off before the bondo got hard (which is about 30 seconds). I also epoxied the inside of the stab to fuse through the hole at the top of the vertical fin using an acid brush stuck on a dowel so I could reach the surfaces.
I then flipped the fuse on her back and epoxied the stab to fuse via the tail wheel hole. I used micro balls in the epoxy to increase its viscosity to keep the epoxy where I wanted it to be.
As with the top, I then masked off the area between the stab and fuse and added more easysand.
The masking tape keeps my mess confined to the joint and, after removing the tape, I get a nice fillet.
I keep on 'trucking'.
=====================
Stab to fuse:
Now that I've got the stab and fuse wet sanded and all panel lines and rivets added, it's time to secure the stab to the fuse.
The usual procedure:
mount gear, mount wing to plane, put on level ground, measure equal distance from wing tip to stab tip and stab to ground, insure stab is parallel with wing, etc.
There's not much room to route wires so I, first, installed the extensions from the servo bays to the center stab holes (that was hard to do, even, before installing the stab to the fuse!).
I used an acid brush to force epoxy between the stab and fuse on the external surfaces.
After that dried, I taped the top half of the stab to the fuse and added evercoats easysand and pulled the tape off before the bondo got hard (which is about 30 seconds). I also epoxied the inside of the stab to fuse through the hole at the top of the vertical fin using an acid brush stuck on a dowel so I could reach the surfaces.
I then flipped the fuse on her back and epoxied the stab to fuse via the tail wheel hole. I used micro balls in the epoxy to increase its viscosity to keep the epoxy where I wanted it to be.
As with the top, I then masked off the area between the stab and fuse and added more easysand.
The masking tape keeps my mess confined to the joint and, after removing the tape, I get a nice fillet.
03-22-2012, 07:29 AM
#144
RE: ZIROLI 94
Painting.
First, I masked off all the previously painted green parts, flap wells, flap interiors, engine area, wheel wells, etc. I was going to remove the gear/tail wheel doors but left them on as I figured that it would be easier with them in the closed position. I taped the gear doors closed from the inside.
Tools of the trade:
Behr paint thinned by about 20% window shield washer fluid with floetrol added to reduce viscosity and some new stuff: GAC-200 that is an acrylic hardener. There were some lumps in the GAC-200 but, the paint is strained, anyway, so it was academic. For me a 4 oz fluid gun works best: holds enough paint to get one side of two large parts done yet small enough to get corners without causing runs. I use a tooth brush to periodically clean off the nozzle and use three water collectors: one at the main tank, one where the hose connects to my belt buckle and one just before the gun.
Usual paint sequence:
Edges/corners first, then overlap 50% on spray pattern.
Do second shoot at 90 degrees to the first.
Last (third) coat 90 degree to the second coat.
Low 80's, and clear, today so I painted early before the sun came over the trees.
First, I masked off all the previously painted green parts, flap wells, flap interiors, engine area, wheel wells, etc. I was going to remove the gear/tail wheel doors but left them on as I figured that it would be easier with them in the closed position. I taped the gear doors closed from the inside.
Tools of the trade:
Behr paint thinned by about 20% window shield washer fluid with floetrol added to reduce viscosity and some new stuff: GAC-200 that is an acrylic hardener. There were some lumps in the GAC-200 but, the paint is strained, anyway, so it was academic. For me a 4 oz fluid gun works best: holds enough paint to get one side of two large parts done yet small enough to get corners without causing runs. I use a tooth brush to periodically clean off the nozzle and use three water collectors: one at the main tank, one where the hose connects to my belt buckle and one just before the gun.
Usual paint sequence:
Edges/corners first, then overlap 50% on spray pattern.
Do second shoot at 90 degrees to the first.
Last (third) coat 90 degree to the second coat.
Low 80's, and clear, today so I painted early before the sun came over the trees.
03-24-2012, 08:02 AM
#149
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jacksonville,
IL
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ZIROLI 94
Sa:
Just did your method of FOAM in the belly of my TF 40 ARF.
Sure is messy.
Will let sit for the 8 hr curing time and hope to clean/peel off the mess.
I already had a small dent in the fiberglass belly pan just handeling in construction.
It has popped it out some and hope to pop back out fully.
Will see
Just did your method of FOAM in the belly of my TF 40 ARF.
Sure is messy.
Will let sit for the 8 hr curing time and hope to clean/peel off the mess.
I already had a small dent in the fiberglass belly pan just handeling in construction.
It has popped it out some and hope to pop back out fully.
Will see
