dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

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I take it from the no reponse to has anyone had this stuff on a plane and in use for a while.....Im the test fool....i mean case?
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What about contacting 'WOW Planes' and some of their customers that have used 'LS'?

tfarmer96

WOW has used it on the foam airplanes for sure. I was wondering if anyone here on RCU had used it. Its going to be ok im sure, if nothing more then as good as monokote. Im going to get back on the fuse friday night and get my razor back put on it and get it ready for pannel lines.

tunakuts3d

When I first spoke to David at Indus. Polymers he said the expected shelf life of unmixed (activated) SS was 6 months or longer.He also mentioned that using a canned air like that used to blow off computers and such, and giving a short blast as the lid is put back on would help prolong the shelf life, by displacing the air in the can with a dryer less humid air mixture.There is a product called Bloxygen which I think is an inert gas (argon) that is used to keep paint and varnish etc. finishes from skining over in the resealed container, that might be worth trying. Another option might be to drop glass marbles into the can to bring the level of the liquid up so less air(humidity) is trapped in the can.
paul

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Do you mean 'UN' or 'NON' Activated? I get the point though, Unmixed, at least 6 Months once initially opened if properely sealed after use.

tunakuts3d

yeah, I guess I shoulda said Non or not activated, anyway you got the point

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

This has been a real interesting thread. Has anyone tried using a spray gun to put on the SS-1000? Or is using a roller enough?


Has anyone seen or tried this? Ontario Adhesive in Canada has a water based product call Eze Kote. Below is the link to the site and a little blurb about the product itself.It is listed under the cloth and resins category. Horizon Hobbies now carries this product as well. It is about the same price as LS.

http://www.ontarioadhesives.ca/index...iewCat&catId=8

tunakuts3d

You'd best see the video and talk to industrial polymers about spraying, the name styro spray 1000 should be a clue. I beleive the use of a charcoal cannister type of respirator is advised.

spaceworm

There used to be plastic jars for photo chemicals (does anyone do their own photo processing anymore?) with accordian type folds that could be compressed as the material inside was used. Therefore, there would be little or no air in the bottle to contaminate the material. Maybe search the photo chemical suppliers sector?

A similar approach would be to put the material in a flexible wall bottle and squeeze the bottle until the air was expelled, then put the cap on.

The LS and SS are apparently polyurethane resin type material, like Gorilla glue, that is activated by moisture IAT the two part mix. That explains why even 91% isopropyl alcohol will set it off, cause the 9% non alcohol is water? Can you be sure denatured alcohol is water free, or does it have to be labeled as such?

Regarding toxicity, polyurethane paints such as Immeron use a cyanide based catalyst (isocyanate) that completely fries your internal organs (asked me how I know) when ingested. Does this material contain any isocyanates?

Thanks.

Sincerely, Richard

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

here's a vid for Eze Kote:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQJ-m...eature=related

looks less messy than glassing with a similar result

tunakuts3d

page 1 of MSDS for stryo spray .

frankle951

My Feedback: (35)

[8D][8D][8D] Looking good man, Im 49 years old and can remember the tis and drop, man was it a pain to work with and planes back in the mid 70 where small, but nice job, keep posting[8D][8D][8D]

tfarmer96

Ya use it in a well ventalated area.

tfarmer96

sanded down the fuse put on the razor back shes ready for primer. Check out the sand paper. i hit it with 220 and this stuff just sands no gumming up the paper.

yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

I"m really liking the way your bird turned out. I'm about to be in posession of a Meister P-47. The wing has been built, but not finished/glassed. I was leaning heavily toward glassing the wing and surfaces with the Minwax products. A flying buddy of mine is in the process of glassing a wing with the Minwax. He sealed the wood with Sanding Sealer and layed the glass with Minwax water-based lacquer finish. The process seemed much more simple, and cleaner than glassing with epoxy resin. Now that I've seen your process, I'm considering strongly doing it your way. Also, the new product mentioned in post #231 seems to be basically the same thing as the Minwax. The only thing different was that the EZE Kote product was put on entirely, and not after sealing the wood with a sanding sealer.

tfarmer96

I have done the water based poly many time nothing wrong with that. This seems to be working out well

Avaiojet

These parts have one coat of Polyester resin. Reduced and thinned with acetone. The idea is to have it soak in. There will be another thin second coat applied before glassing. That coat will get lightly sanded.

These parts were put together for the benifit of the photo, which I used in another Thread.

tfarmer96

I got the fuse primered yesterday. The result is well let’s say a bit disappointing for me. This stuff went on so thin that is showing every little imperfection and grain in the wood. This can be remedied with some body work and a bunch of sanding. I just wanted to let you guys know before you jumped in on blind faith.

This product has its place in this hobby it can be applied fast and easy, but for best results you should completely sand the balsa and fill ANY SMALL imperfection in the wood. My conclusion is I will be returning to the old proven method of glass cloth and water based poly.

I had to try it for myself to see. I was taught that if you take shortcuts you get cut short. Well that’s kind of what I think this is. Now on a foam model or using it as a non cut mix I’m sure it would be a different outcome. I’m not saying anything bad or negative about this stuff, but I don’t think it’s for me at the end of the day.
This 47 isn’t hosed by a long shot I’m just going to have to do some work to get it in shape for paint. Looks like a pay me now or pay me latter thing.

Buckmeister

Thanks, I was waiting for the "outcome" before trying it myself.

tfarmer96

Im not saying this was a mistake, but i just dont think it is for me and i dont want anyone jumping off the edge without the complete story if they are basing their actions on my information.

JPNYGAARD

My Feedback: (27)

WOULD THINNING TO A LESSER EXTENT.....SAY 40 - 40 - 20 MAKE A DIFFERENCE ??

Gutaaaooo

Yeah, I thought about this when you said it was "like water", it would not fill anything. When I do mine, I will used it untined.

tfarmer96

I’m sure it would. I’m moving forward i just wanted to give the report to make sure everyone had the end result in my application. Right Wrong or Indifferent.

john d in texas

I was also worried when you thinned it that much. I think when I get ready to use it on my TPGS P-51 I will go the Un-thinned route... John D...

spaceworm

[quote]ORIGINAL: tfarmer96


Since your original premise was not so much to add strength as to provide a smooth imperfection free surface on which to paint. Have you tried or considered WBP with polyester cloth (Koveral ordress lining material) instead of using glass cloth. I have with very good, for me, results. Good luck with your chosen appraoch. With your dedication to detail, I am sure it will give very good results.

Sincerely, Richard

box car

This is just part of the learning process. The prep work is 90% of the job, this is what makes great paint jobs.