tfarmer96

its a brian taylor you can get it from vicrc.com

tfarmer96

Pull out the p47 ARC tonight. got the 1/2 the horizontal stab done.

Below is the video of the application not sure if this helps or not but here it is:

http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/l...etstheroad.wmv

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Terry's Hints and Tricks of the trade Video #1 ($4.95).

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Terry; in the video, you said the stabs were preped and ready to apply the SS; if they needed some bondo, filler, putty etc; this would have been done and sanded before you put the SS on, right?

tfarmer96

yep this this out of the box is sanded and filled they do a great job with the arc. i would not be afraid to put ever coat over the ss.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Not sure what you meant 'ever coat'?

tfarmer96

thats a type of body filler

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I'm getting ahead of things here, do you think that all prep such as body filler, and sanding should take place before the 'SS', my thought was that the 'SS' would seal the filler and fill in any sanding marks left on the filler? then after the 'SS' would be panel lines and primer, final sanding then paint; an alternate to this would be 'Deft' Sanding Sealer first, then prep, then 'SS', panel lines, final sand then paint! maybe 'Deft' is overkill?

tfarmer96

ok i got you now. i am treating it as i would glass. The last thing to do before primer and paint. Sorry bout that.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I'm thinking this might be a good base for "Flight Metal" type finishes as well.
I guess I need to get my WOW Planes B-17 done so I can try the LSII that I have to use on it.

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Quite a few years ago, I bought a roll of thin aluminum self-adhesive foil sheeting (Cap'n Butches Scale Models) that was intended to replicate a brushed aluminum look. I was going to use it on a house-of-balsa P47 kit, but I never did. I wonder what it would do to use that over something like the LSII? Its supposed to be applied over a "paint ready" surface such as glass or whatever. It seems like this would be a good base for that too........

Dave

lightning 759

hi
pardon me for being a bit thick but im i right in thinking you dont need glass cloth & that you are applying direct to the balsa airframe ???.
could you still use it over cloth or is there no benifit from the extra expense of the cloth

thanks
andy

box car

You can put it over glass but I don't see any benifit in doing that. I put it right over the balsa works fine.

deatonbt

I'm not sure what you are posting. Are you going to apply it to a glass fuselage? Ihave an American Eagle Spitfire with a glass fuselage.
I bought some Styro Spray this past summer. It would be great if it filled pin holes in one pass and then could be sanded with 600 and be ready to paint with rattle cans.

I was going to use it on the wings but chickened out and used Solartex since it is going to be a sport plane that just happens to look like a Spitfire.

tfarmer96

I just can't leave well enough alone. I'm going to put sanding sealer on the vertical control surface let that dry and then apply the product. Boxcar suggested this and I want to try it out. I wll always welcome ideas on how to do things.

The spitfire will only get this stuff on the wood parts.

wattmeter

Subscribed
wattmeter

tfarmer96

yes you could use cloth with it but i dont see the need. If were lucky we are going to find out this is a fast simple and easy way to get a warbird from balsa to ready for paint in much less time.

tfarmer96

Ok Box Car i have to give you credit. 2 very very lite coats of sanding sealer let it dry for 3 hrs then i hit it with 500 grit and put the product on. Its slick like a mirror this will make the amount of finish sanding before primer or paint very low.

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Can I ask what sanding sealer you used? There have been many mentioned here...

Thanks,

Dave

tfarmer96

Minwax. I had to run down to Houston real quick to deliver an airplane I will get some photos up tommarow evening

Black Drape

tfarmer96
Are you using water based Minwax sanding sealer or the laquer base?
Thanks
Ron

box car

Iused Deft laquersanding sealer, you can buy it at Lowes.

Avaiojet

John,

What "pin holes" are you referring to? When I glass with cloth I don't get any. The cloth and glass covers everything. I do apply a reduced/thin coat of resin into the wood before I glass with cloth. I knock that first coat down dry. I also use a quality primer, just enough to cover the second coat of polyester resin. You said, "I strive for a show room finish."

This model is showroom, built in the 80's and it took the Best Finish award at the WRAM show back then.

Quick, quick, simple glass and resin, no big deal. Board sanded smooth then followed with a good coat of primer. board sanded dry, then light on all colors of paint. Two coats of automotove two part clear goes last.

The products I use makes the difference.

I'm trying to progress with this F3F-I have and this Gee Bee Z. If I can get my act together, I'll glass and prime them in a Thread.

slowglowflyer

I will be building a topnotch kits aero commander soon and would like a showroom finish on it. I hope to use this process for its ease and weight. The main concern I have is keeping the weight down. It has a 56" wingspan and will be powered by two electric motors.

zman5000

back in the '80s i built a gemco corsair f4u1, and i didn't want to cover it with glass. i wanted to keep weight down (sound familiar?) so since the plane was fully sheeted i came up with an original idea. i lightly sanded the balsa then mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and rubbed it into the balsa with a shop rag. when dry a light sanding and then ordinary rattle can spray paint, and i got nothing but compliments. it even survived a couple of hard landings. and you could even wax this paint and the wax made it fuelproof. i don't have this plane anymore, though if i found that kit again i might build another.