CLEAR COAT
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: S. I.,
NY
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CLEAR COAT
I'm looking for any advice as to what "FLAT" clearcoat I should use on my warbird. It will be going over Warbird color paint which is a water base paint and it has too much shine for my liking. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#5
My Feedback: (71)
RE: CLEAR COAT
I used Topflite flat clear when I was flying glow engines. Just did not like how poorly the clear coat flows on the painted surface. I've heard of guys trying Minwax products but never used it myself.
For gasoline warbirds, I've used Krylon flat clear that flows much better on a painted surface. In fact, Krylon Fusion spray cans have nozzles that spray evenly and the paint flows really well on glassed or monokote surface, much better than Topflite paint. Walmart usually has wide selection of flat camo colors great for warbirds. You can probably guess why Walmart carries lots of camo colors...
For gasoline warbirds, I've used Krylon flat clear that flows much better on a painted surface. In fact, Krylon Fusion spray cans have nozzles that spray evenly and the paint flows really well on glassed or monokote surface, much better than Topflite paint. Walmart usually has wide selection of flat camo colors great for warbirds. You can probably guess why Walmart carries lots of camo colors...
#6
My Feedback: (67)
RE: CLEAR COAT
Do you need the clear to fuel proof or just dull your finish? If its the first then use klass kote. If its the latter, try dulling it with some fine grit paper or sanding pad. Sand in one direction top to bottom vertically on the fuse and fin. Chordwise LE to TE on the wing.
#7
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: north port,
FL
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CLEAR COAT
I have had good luck with the TOP-FLITE clear . You do not have to spray on heavy coats just mist the coats on and as far as flat it gives a flat sheen and it is fuel proof for both glow and gas. I do not try to spray it like color but use lightly and you get good results , also I have had it on a couple of planes for a few years and it does not seem to yellow. To each his own , but this is what I use.
thanks bob
thanks bob
#10
RE: CLEAR COAT
Hi,
Where does one get Klass Kote? Also, what is Top Flite "Dull Coat?" If you mean the flat clear, I've been having terrible luck with that stuff lately. It's not flat at all....
I just bought some automotive urethane which is supposed to be dead flat. I'll be shooting it through a gun. Anyone ever have that stuff react badly to Krylon?
Where does one get Klass Kote? Also, what is Top Flite "Dull Coat?" If you mean the flat clear, I've been having terrible luck with that stuff lately. It's not flat at all....
I just bought some automotive urethane which is supposed to be dead flat. I'll be shooting it through a gun. Anyone ever have that stuff react badly to Krylon?
#12
Senior Member
RE: CLEAR COAT
Let me know how it turns out. I've got a camo paint scheme on my AC-47 and have had the same BAD luck with the LusterKote flat clear. not..more like satin or semi-gloss. It's the pit's.
I've got it covered with Testors Dull Coat flat clear. It's great but not fuel proof, and if you use windex/alcohol to wipe it down (to remove glo-fuel residue) it leaves white streaks. Can't win for loos'n. ACF
I've got it covered with Testors Dull Coat flat clear. It's great but not fuel proof, and if you use windex/alcohol to wipe it down (to remove glo-fuel residue) it leaves white streaks. Can't win for loos'n. ACF
#13
RE: CLEAR COAT
ORIGINAL: smchale
Do you need the clear to fuel proof or just dull your finish? If its the first then use klass kote. If its the latter, try dulling it with some fine grit paper or sanding pad. Sand in one direction top to bottom vertically on the fuse and fin. Chordwise LE to TE on the wing.
Do you need the clear to fuel proof or just dull your finish? If its the first then use klass kote. If its the latter, try dulling it with some fine grit paper or sanding pad. Sand in one direction top to bottom vertically on the fuse and fin. Chordwise LE to TE on the wing.
Sean has the right idea. Clearcoats are not always necessary, and in my opinion, do not look realistic.
I use steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad to dull and weather the finish. To me, it looks more realistic than a clear coat.
My Stuka was done in this method.
#14
My Feedback: (67)
RE: CLEAR COAT
Thanks Tom. We've had a lot of opportunity (snow) this winter where your stuka would have had a nice photo op. Sadly. [:@] Good for building I guess.
I used Lustrekote flat clear years ago and found that over time (a few years) it would 'yellow'. May have just been a few bad cans, but it's enough for me to avoid the product. Over a colored background it's not too noticable, but over a white or light color it really stood out.
I used Lustrekote flat clear years ago and found that over time (a few years) it would 'yellow'. May have just been a few bad cans, but it's enough for me to avoid the product. Over a colored background it's not too noticable, but over a white or light color it really stood out.
#15
RE: CLEAR COAT
Ya, Sean. Most clear paints (petroleum based) yellow over time. I've even noticed it over colored backgrounds.
We've had plenty of photo ops, up here, too. LOL
The Stuka pics were taken on the shores of Lake Michigan, a couple years ago.
We've had plenty of photo ops, up here, too. LOL
The Stuka pics were taken on the shores of Lake Michigan, a couple years ago.
#16
My Feedback: (13)
RE: CLEAR COAT
after using warbirdcolors paints, I use there satin clear coat to blend the colors, and dull the lines between the different colors, it has a light shine to it but is allot less than the actual paint colors have they tend to be a little glossy the clear has a more pronounced duller sheen.