grh_70

Anybody know whatever became of the KMP D9. It hasn't shown up on their site yet and the above was posted June 1?
Still in the container??

Ramstein44

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Here are those engine shots. I had to re-make the ignition box as the other just wouldn't do and I needed more weight so I beefed it up. Im considering making two more boxes to seatthe buckshot and placing then on either side of the engine.

Opinions???

Reverend

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An engine alternative for those who are still deciding: Laser 300V, fits without cutting the cowl...

The mighty 50cc looks almost forlorn in the cowl

Duplicator41

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It got "lost".

Cheers,

Duplicator41

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Reverend, how do you plan to provide cooloing airflow?

Cheers,

corsair183

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Careful with the Great Planes CG machine. My CMP Bf 109 came off of that thing and crashed into the kitchen table crushing the canopy.

You're right! CMP called back to say the canopy isn't available. Next thing is to make replacement panels and all the tinkering that goes with that. Almost done with repairs. The plane weighs just under 15 pounds.

Be sure that there are no side loads when balancing because if there are, little ball and socket stuff snaps apart and down comes your plane.

JLZ

IL2windhawk

+1
I had the same thought.

Maybe if the engine was inverted you could hide cooling exit holes in the exhaust manifold areas.

The 300V is an awesome fit in that kit. I was thinking about one of those for a Holman Dora

pandissix

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Ramstein- Flip it over and determine CG upright with Gear down. I am curious if you get the same results.

Stiknrudder

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Anyone got pictures with a 300v or 360v installed?

Rick

railfly

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one of you who successfully removed the gun hood tell us how also what glue did you use to construct the cockpit kit

Reverend

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ok,
q1: cooling.

I plan on doing the same as on my Anton. Force the air over the two cylinders and let it exit on the underside of the fuse in front of the firewall and through the sides of the cowl. The open cowl flaps should provide a venturi effect. I do not want to mount it inverted due to the fact, that I do not want the needles sticking out the bottom. First nose over they are toast.

q2: Laser 300V vs 360V, I have both here and the 360V will take some serious cutting of the cowl. The rocker covers will stick out.

q3: removing the gun hood was absolutely not possible on mine. It was really stuck shut with a lot of effort...


Rev

Ramstein44

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Thanks for all the input. I'll flip it and see what the balance is again but with the gear down this time. I made my weights last night with BB's. The unit is removable and I've yet to installmit. I've always balanced my birds upside down. Is there a difference. I know I've heard you balance it the way you fly it (upright) but this has never failed me..

pimmnz

Upright or inverted makes no difference, hanging the weight of the model below the axis of the balance points simply makes the thing stable. Same as balancing a high wing model upright. FWIW, the balance and CG are two very different concepts, the airlines use 'weight and balance' calcs, never 'Centre of Gravity'. But then we modellers use all sorts of colloquial terms for what are in reality quite specific physical concepts. I guess it doesn't really matter, so long as you know the difference.
Evan, WB #12.

kahloq

The GP CG balancer is fine. Works well and can do up to the rated 40 pounds as mentioned already. If your worried about the machine possibly slipping a ball joint with the plane on it...stack some couch or other dense type pillows under both wings...but not where they actually touch the wings when the plane is sitting in the balancer). If the cg machine breaks, fails, or you even lose your grip when trying to shimmy the plane to the correct spot on the balancer, then the pillows will catch it and no damage.

You could also put a bed pillow under the nose.

Duplicator41

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Thanks. Just a comment, please be sure to block the front of the cowl except where your cylinders are. On my first Dora I had the cowl flaps opened up to allow air to exit. I did not block the air flow behind the spinner thinking that the size of the spinner would block a lot of air flow. Wrong - engine overheated and quit, landed short of the strip with minimal
damage. Made a baffle directing air over the cylinder - no more overheating.

Cheers,

Reverend

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That is what I meant, here is how I solved it on my 1/5.58 Scale Anton.

It is important to know, that only the air that strafes the cylinder within 3mm is actually relevant to cooling. The rest is lost effort...

Rev

bladebender

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Thank for the pictures

ticketec

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Hey Reverend,

Yes I'm with you, don't understand why they did that??? The distrinutor said that he fully expected the factory to replace the damaged gun hood, but that it would be included in their next shipment that isn't due to arrive until december... 3 MONTHS away!!![:@][:'(] I've asked them to hurry it up, but i'm getting ready for plan B:

Reverend your replacement hood looks good....

Thanks

dave

ticketec

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So I spent pretty much yesterday afternoon and all day today on the Fw. I replaced the aileron hinges for pin type hinges because I didn't like the thought of CA hinges on there. So they have been replaced and glued in. The flaps are also done, and today

I spent the whole day with the sierra's and trying to get them into the wing. The first one took me about 4-5 hours slowly are carefully removing material to get it in and the biggest drama I had was clearing the leading edge. I've ended having to remove a little bit of material from there but not a whole heap. once i finally got it in and was happ so I started with the L/H wing, that took about 1 hour A bit easier when you know what you want the second time round.

The other thing that was bugging me a little with my sierras was that the fliteskin wheels were a little floppy on the shaft. The previous owner of the gear had just used a allen key bolt in the legs to secure the wheels and act as the shaft. this isn't wasn't a great solution so I fired up the lathe and start working on a more scale replacement. It didn't take too long and they look heaps better than the original bolt used. I gave them a quick spray with flat black but it looks kinda glossy in the pic's because it was still wet.

I'll buy some screws to attach the retracts to the bearers tomorrow when the shops open up.

Thanks

dave

LDM

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Dave its been a long time my friend , you know I think you need a few more German WW2 planes, i can only count three in the picture
How you doing buddy , nice job on the new D9 , I am tempted to pull the trigger on this but i am only flying eletric, so too many large projects on my table , including the KMP cosrair and Hellcat .

Ramstein44

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Looking good.. Did you use the measurements I posted for the gear or did you have others which worked? Were all your wing ribs glued as some of mine had no glue also did you reinforce the retract mounts and formers associated with them??

I'm looking for areas to shave weight. Wondering if the sits wheels are lighter then the glennis as they have the huge metal hubs and the sits look thinner. We'll see. Headed out of town for the day so I'll get back on mine tonight after studies.

Ramstein44

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Got er done! She's all balanced up and ready to maiden. Having the more scale gear wheel wells kind of prevented me from balancing her upright with the larger openings. But..... It'll have to wait for a bit more.

hunterprey

Have been doing a bit of work on the cockpit and gun cover it came off easy as not alot of glue holding it on. Have the engine twin 53cc.

ticketec

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Hahaha How have you been?

Never enough mate! I thought you'd be all over this one as well

Hey Ram,

I did start with mostly your measurements for the first one, then for the second one I changed them a bit. The Sierras needed to go into the retract well's on a slight angle, ie I didn't cut the bearers parallel with the original cuts. I also cut into the "ends" or outboard sections of the retract bearers to get the gear out as far as I could. I also noticed that botht eh left wing and the right wing are built differently????

As for glue, your right, not a lot around. The retract bearers were impressivily made from one lamination of ply, then a 0.030" layer of fibreglass sheet (like fliteskin) and then another layer of ply, which should make a very strong bearer! The only problem was when cutting into them, there is no real glue inbetween them. Epoxy would be the be best glue in this case, but I'm going to dribble in as much thin CA as I can. For the rest of the joints, I'm thinking of applying hysol to the load bearing areas, and the rest of the wheel well to be coated in thinned epoxy. I will get to that In a little bit.

Thanks

dave

ticketec

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Still waiting to get an answer back from Austars before I try and remove mine. That engine looks to sit in there very nicely!! Have you run it yet? I wonder how it goes and what props it can spin?

Well the wing is pretty much ready to join now, and not having the servosis holding me up there so I will get around that and join them up, In the mean time I decided to quickly address the no swastika on the fin. I am using the Eagle cal decal sheet instruction to guide me as to what other markings need to be added. Seeing as I have my own vinyl cutter at home it was a pretty quick job to cut out some spray masks and airbrush on some flat black paint.

Thanks

dave