w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

CG is fine, weight is 15% over mine (6.200 gr) but should be alright. Did you reinforce the retract mounts? Also make sure the flaps open 80 degrees.

Why are you so worried for the maiden?

maxmb339

Hi w1nds6rfa,
I have to check the retract mounts and further opening up the flaps. I had a bad experience with an ESM Focke Wulf 190 that did not fly. This is why I am concerned, but I hope that everything goes well. thanks for your help. I will tell you how to fly after the maiden flight.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Last weekend a friend at the field came with a ESM Bearcat he had repaired.
I lifted it and couldn't believe it, it weighed 11 kg !

I thought it wouldn't take off but as it happens it flew well, overpowered with a 50cc engine. So I wouldn't worry about the 7 kg, just make sure the 180 4-stroke is tuned a little rich and do a thorough maiden check.

What was wrong with the 190? (I have that too)

maxmb339

I have added so much extra weight to bring the CG to 140 mm. He had a tendency to throw down the muzzle. not gliding. I think too much wing loading. mine was FW 190 11 red, you have this model?

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Yep, 180cm wingspan 8 kg

Flight vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDuhcxD0RTg

maxmb339

Hi W1nd6urfa,
Sorry I had to get away from my computer.
Many compliments,VERY beautiful flight. My FW has made damn. perhaps the ASP 180 was underpowered ?
That you mounted engine? what is the position of the CG? Thanks for your help !!!

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Compliments to my friend dgiatr who is piloting in the video, I got the 190 from him.
In the video its got a DLE 30, I will install an Airworld Moki 30cc

On all ESM warbirds we maiden with CG at 25% MAC, then move it back if it feels too nose-heavy

maxmb339

Hi w1nd6urfa,



I'm bringing the flaps to an opening of 80 ° . It seems to me much. You fly with this opening ?

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

It seems too much compared to what? 109?

Split flaps produce lift up to 40 degrees, we need it to act as airbrake

RCSYNDROME

Hi guys.
I need some help here. I have the older version of the esm 72.5 spitfire.
The colour scheme is camo only, no marine stripes and I also don't have pull pull.
Only dowel sticks with wires for control surfaces.
I installed a dle 35ra engine.
I balanced the plane at 110mm cg.
Now the problem that I have is when I want to take off the plane noses over, not even at quarter throttle. Banged up one prop already.
Must I move my cg???
Can it be to much down thrust.
I am about to scrap this project....
Have been struggling with this plane since I started the build..

oldtimer4759

Hi, CofG is a flying balance, not a ground taxi setting. leave the C of G where it is, it sounds like you need to tilt the undercarriage forward, put a spacer under the back of the retract mount, 2 or 3 mm, that will bring the wheels forward, but they are still touchy.
you will need to baffle the engine for cooling, I have the same engine in mine, I can take a picture of what I have done, doesnt do much for the Spitfire nose lines, but it keeps the engine running.
Oldtimer

kittykatjaz

Don't scrap the project, once you fly it you will be hooked. It is a brilliant Spitfire model to fly, especially with the DLE35 in it.

Don't touch the c.g. just rake the gear forward a bit. Plus use full up elevator when taxiing and some throttle control to push some prop thrust over the elevator.

I have the model with the invasion strips, DLE30 and the gear in the original location, not raked. It has the usual Spitfire ground handling but if the field is rough or grass long I don't bother as it can easily nose over. Depending on field conditions I also occasionally use high rates on the elevator whilst on the ground or landing.

Good luck with it.

Jaz

maxmb339

Dear RCSYNDROME,

Please, see this video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=J9ly0G-rkTA

in this video the reply

Best Regards

sandyjain

Hi Guys,

I am just starting my build of this beautiful model.
I will be using the DLE35RA as many of you here....
Can anyone please post pics of the engine mounted on the firewall.... I am worried that I am going too near the edge of the firewall.
Looking from front the engine is shifted to the left and the standoff are at the edge...

I am planning to use stock stand offs and mount the engine little forward. The gap between the spinner and the cowl can be filled - But why add extra weight.

oldtimer4759

hello Sandy,
yes the mounts will be very close to the edge, but a few hints, if you fit the cowl first, get it all lined up, screws in and so on, then sit the model on its tail up against a bench, put the engine stand offs on the engine, sit it in place on the fire wall, then slide the cowl on over the engine, you will need to trim a bit out for the head, but only as much as you have to, put the spinner back plate on, line everything up with the cowl, mark where the engine sits, drill the mount holes, if you read back through this thread you will pick up a few points about this model, but if in doubt ask, that is what these threads are for.
Oldtimer

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

CAD is the modern way, if you want to take "measure twice, cut once" to the highest level

sandyjain

Thanx Oldtimer..... I did as you said..... and I am happy with the result.....

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Looking good, but the cylinder might need more cooling if you're flying in warm weather

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

I think there it would be enough cooling. Here is cooling JC EVO 28 in my SBD Dauntless by ESM. But keep the air outflow in mind.

sandyjain

Thank you guys for the tips on cooling. Well at the moment the opening for the head was only for the purpose of sliding on the cowl to work out where the engine standoffs sit on the firewall.
There will be other openings for the exhaust pipes and after that i will consider the coiling aspect...Indeed New Delhi is going to be rather hot now onward....


why did my pics come all over the place, whereas for everyone else they are neatly pasted on the bottom of the post ???

oldtimer4759

hello Sandy,
you will need to do some air baffling for the engine, I have had problems with mine, I now have a baffle around the engine, with a deflector just behind the muffler to suck the hot air out, I also have telemetry on mine, it will run fairly hot without the deflector, will post some pictures.
Oldtimer.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Here's how I do the baffling:
- First a horizontal baffle to jeep the aitfrlow to the top part of the engine
- Then some vertical to direct the flow in the cooling fins

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

This is a very tight Texav II cowl, but the baffling works wonders even in hot Greek summer days

maxmb339

Dear w1nd6urfa,
I have not yet tried my Spit. I hope to do the test flight with the good season. thanks for the encouragement and suggestions, will keep you updated.
best regards
Max

oldtimer4759

hello Sandy,
here are a few pictures of how I did the air baffles on my Spitfire.
the first one is on a P-51, but it is the way I do them, this was an early one, I have since cut the baffle back a bit further from the muffler, about half way along the side of the head, seems to work OK now. all made of balsa, then a light coat of glass and epoxy.
hope this helps.
Oldtimer