ESM T-6 Texan ii; 30cc DLE Engine Build
08-20-2013, 02:25 PM
#26
After nothing but trouble with the first set of retracts TBM sent me a completely different set, these were supposedly the v3 charlie model. Right out of the box they did not work, same problem as the previous set, they were very inconsistent on when they would retract or extend. Trying to get all three to retract or extend at the same time took several cycles. I finally got tired of messing with them and got my money back. I decided to spend more money and buy some retracts that actually work. I tried to get a set from Robart but the guy I spoke to on the phone did not seem to want to answer any of my questions so I went overseas to France and ordered a set of Lado Electric Retracts. They were not cheap, but I have cycled them probably 20 times so far and not once has one of them failed to extend or retract. They pretty much dropped right in to the Texan with only very minor dremeling needed and they look great. I have not flown them yet but if the weather permits I'll be flying them this weekend. I'll post some photos later this week.
09-11-2013, 03:53 PM
#27
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Hey Tip22v
What you have described above is exactly what I'm now experiencing .
Inconsistent behavior in operation. Sometimes they work great sometimes they don't work or
sometimes only 1 or 2 wheels retract or deploy.
It is very infuriating trying to get this right. I've done everything that people have suggested and I know that
it is not the gear binding which some people seem to think is the problem.
To me, it looks like the controller is not working correctly. I'm wondering if it is unable to distribute the power to all 3 gears regularly.
I'm using a 2 cell lipo via a bec for the power and the bec gets very warm when testing the gear so the gear must be trying to pull a lot
of amps. Have tried different bec with the same results.
(Just thought of something, should I be removing the red wire from the lead to the receiver as I'm already getting the power from the battery/bec?)
Hmmm maybe I should try that and see what happens.
Paul
What you have described above is exactly what I'm now experiencing .
Inconsistent behavior in operation. Sometimes they work great sometimes they don't work or
sometimes only 1 or 2 wheels retract or deploy.
It is very infuriating trying to get this right. I've done everything that people have suggested and I know that
it is not the gear binding which some people seem to think is the problem.
To me, it looks like the controller is not working correctly. I'm wondering if it is unable to distribute the power to all 3 gears regularly.
I'm using a 2 cell lipo via a bec for the power and the bec gets very warm when testing the gear so the gear must be trying to pull a lot
of amps. Have tried different bec with the same results.
(Just thought of something, should I be removing the red wire from the lead to the receiver as I'm already getting the power from the battery/bec?)
Hmmm maybe I should try that and see what happens.
Paul
Last edited by pauljohn666; 09-11-2013 at 03:55 PM.
09-11-2013, 11:28 PM
#28
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On second look at the controller I see that the red wire from the receiver lead
is in fact cut inside the controller so that is not the problem.
Bummer, thought I might have been on to something then.
Paul
is in fact cut inside the controller so that is not the problem.
Bummer, thought I might have been on to something then.
Paul
09-12-2013, 06:10 AM
#29
Paul,
i experienced everything you are going through. I ended up returning the ESM retracts and going with a set of very expensive Lado electrics. The ladle have been flawless in terms of going up and down. However, I have flown the aircraft twice with Lado retracts and both times one of the main gear pins that connect the trunion to the strut broke on touch down. I flew the plane four times with ESM retracts and while I could never get the gear to go up and down correctly not once did the main gear bend or break on touch down. I'm very frustrated, especially after spending $900 on these Lado retracts.
i experienced everything you are going through. I ended up returning the ESM retracts and going with a set of very expensive Lado electrics. The ladle have been flawless in terms of going up and down. However, I have flown the aircraft twice with Lado retracts and both times one of the main gear pins that connect the trunion to the strut broke on touch down. I flew the plane four times with ESM retracts and while I could never get the gear to go up and down correctly not once did the main gear bend or break on touch down. I'm very frustrated, especially after spending $900 on these Lado retracts.
09-14-2013, 03:23 AM
#30
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Yea this is infuriating.
I'm building this model for my son and he is not really in a position of
paying $900 for retracts. I have another controller lying around that has one
gear channel burned out but is good for the other 2.
Thinking of trying both controllers on a Y lead and seeing if distributing the load between them
makes any difference.
Paul
I'm building this model for my son and he is not really in a position of
paying $900 for retracts. I have another controller lying around that has one
gear channel burned out but is good for the other 2.
Thinking of trying both controllers on a Y lead and seeing if distributing the load between them
makes any difference.
Paul
09-19-2013, 05:46 AM
#31
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Well now I'm really confused.
Decided to try using a 2 cell LiFe battery without a Bec(6.6V)
Guess what, I retracts are working almost perfectly.
Cycled the retracts about 30 times and they came down every time,
Going up I had the nose gear fail only twice and mains worked every time.
I know that I'll have to test a lot more than that but it's an encouraging start.
Previously I was using a 2 cell LiPo battery with a Bec reducing the voltage to 6V.
Bec was almost too hot to touch after a short time. It was n't a faulty Bec as I tried at least 4 different ones.
So I don't know, maybe the extra 0.6V of the LiFe makes the difference.
Paul
Decided to try using a 2 cell LiFe battery without a Bec(6.6V)
Guess what, I retracts are working almost perfectly.
Cycled the retracts about 30 times and they came down every time,
Going up I had the nose gear fail only twice and mains worked every time.
I know that I'll have to test a lot more than that but it's an encouraging start.
Previously I was using a 2 cell LiPo battery with a Bec reducing the voltage to 6V.
Bec was almost too hot to touch after a short time. It was n't a faulty Bec as I tried at least 4 different ones.
So I don't know, maybe the extra 0.6V of the LiFe makes the difference.
Paul
09-20-2013, 03:47 PM
#32
That is interesting. I also used a two cell lipo but no bec. If I remember correctly I believe the instructions said I could use up to 9.6volts and that higher voltages would provide faster cycle time (which is obvious). Maybe 6.6 volts is the sweet spot, me using to high and using too low.
Either way all three gear should go up and down on command every time. Somebody else posted that their gear worked fine without the engine running and then had difficulty when the engine was running at certain speeds. You may want play with that a bit before flying it, it would suck to gear up and then not be able to all three down and locked in time for landing. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. In the meantime my new struts arrived and I hope try them out this weekend. -Tom
Either way all three gear should go up and down on command every time. Somebody else posted that their gear worked fine without the engine running and then had difficulty when the engine was running at certain speeds. You may want play with that a bit before flying it, it would suck to gear up and then not be able to all three down and locked in time for landing. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. In the meantime my new struts arrived and I hope try them out this weekend. -Tom
06-10-2014, 05:04 AM
#33
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How about we bump this thread, let us know how your Texans are flying.
I picked one up in good condition, checked it over looks like it will need some minor mods here and there.
What I got:
- Pneumatic retracts from an ESM B-25
- Lights !
- Full body pilots
I picked one up in good condition, checked it over looks like it will need some minor mods here and there.
What I got:
- Pneumatic retracts from an ESM B-25
- Lights !
- Full body pilots
06-10-2014, 05:11 AM
#34
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The previous owner had made a hatch under the tail and moved the tail servos there, however the wood beams used for servo mounts were not properly glued to the fuse sides.
Came off with some hand pressure!
Came off with some hand pressure!
06-10-2014, 05:20 AM
#35
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The wood beams came off so easily because a) plain 30-min epoxy was used and b) the fiberglass on the fuse had not been sanded for the glue to adhere
I made 2 beams per side from triangle stock and a proper servo mount from ply, used Hysol type epoxy
For safety I also added a couple of screws from the outside
I made 2 beams per side from triangle stock and a proper servo mount from ply, used Hysol type epoxy
For safety I also added a couple of screws from the outside
06-10-2014, 05:25 AM
#37
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While testing this I thought the elev pushrod was too long and had to add a support brace to avoid slop / flutter
As you can see the rudder horn is internal, works well
As you can see the rudder horn is internal, works well
06-20-2014, 03:29 AM
#41
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After a quick flight I measured the engine temp and it was too hot and not performing well, so I will change to a side exhaust, wraparound muffler.
That will need some mods to the firewall, the bottom section has to come off:
That will need some mods to the firewall, the bottom section has to come off:
Last edited by w1nd6urfa; 06-20-2014 at 03:40 AM.
06-20-2014, 07:26 AM
#48
Very nice job Nikos!
i like your baffling arrangement!
i think that using a dle 35 ra would had saved you from some side cowl cutting though.....
....(τί είχες Γιάννη μου - τι είχα πάντα...!)
i like your baffling arrangement!
i think that using a dle 35 ra would had saved you from some side cowl cutting though.....
....(τί είχες Γιάννη μου - τι είχα πάντα...!)
06-20-2014, 08:14 AM
#49