Another Ziroli Hellcat build!!
#1
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After trying to sell this kit on line without any success, I decided to just go ahead and build it. First pic is of the building room all cleaned and ready to go. Trust me, it won't look this clean once I get started. LOL I inventoried all the parts and found I have a few parts miscut. I will contact National Balsa and make them aware of this. Also missing all the strip wood for the fuse former notches. I have to say the lazer cutting is superb , very clean and the parts fell right out. Here we go, stay tuned and feel free to add your comments and recommendations as I go along. There are a couple of expert Hellcat builders on this site. Sam Parfitt and Mirce to name a couple. I'm sure I missed some others and I apologize for the oversite.
Thanks,
Fred
Thanks,
Fred
#6

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Fred, Mirce, i too have one framed up. I got well along but was unemployed at the time and stopped working on it due to the need for the retracts. Since getting back to work, there have been other projects that have taken up the spare time. Here is a thread on it if you care to have a look. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1165676
#9
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Completed one of the elevators. I departed from the plans by adding another 1/2 in. to the inside of the leading edge. I did this to bring the hinge pivot 3/8 of in. inside the leading edge. I will be using the large Robart hinge points. This allows me to make a nice radius instead of a V hinge at the LE. Also gives a more scale look to the leading edge while adding stiffnes.
#12

Fred, on my first Hellcat I cover rudder and elevators with Oratex and paint it. After some time on those parts I saw some small cracks and on one - two edges oratex start to flipping out.
On next F6F (yellow) I cover those parts with 0,8 mm balsa, and made details with filler. First, construction is much stronger, no more worry about flipping out, and cracks, all in all, I think that is much better solution.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37...25/key_/tm.htm
Think about that...
Regards
Mirce
On next F6F (yellow) I cover those parts with 0,8 mm balsa, and made details with filler. First, construction is much stronger, no more worry about flipping out, and cracks, all in all, I think that is much better solution.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37...25/key_/tm.htm
Think about that...
Regards
Mirce
#13
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My Feedback: (427)
Hi Mirce,
Yes I saw your fix. I'm still going to cover the surfaces with Solartex. This fabric really covers well and stays tight and give it the scale fabric look. Although I must say your detail set you sell looks fantastic. I will be ordering a set for mine.
Just finished roughing out the fin and rudder. I guess I'll start making the fuse crutch. I have to order the stringers they were omitted from my kit
Yes I saw your fix. I'm still going to cover the surfaces with Solartex. This fabric really covers well and stays tight and give it the scale fabric look. Although I must say your detail set you sell looks fantastic. I will be ordering a set for mine.
Just finished roughing out the fin and rudder. I guess I'll start making the fuse crutch. I have to order the stringers they were omitted from my kit
#14
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Ok I have most of the fuse formers glued to the crutch. Last 3 are still floating since I was installing the tailwheel retract. Also taped the cowl on as an incentive to finish the fuse. LOL I have to order the fuse stringers since they were omitted from the kit. I'll be starting on the wing while I wait for the parts to come in.
#22

Take care about weight.
If model is more than 20 kg GT 80 will not be enough. Other thing, that engine will deliver more and more power with every next gallon of gasoline...
Regards
Mirce
If model is more than 20 kg GT 80 will not be enough. Other thing, that engine will deliver more and more power with every next gallon of gasoline...
Regards
Mirce
#23
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Hi Mirce,
Hope I can keep it under 44 lbs. Just made up the elevator joiner wire. I don't like to use 2 servos for the elevator. Using one with a 3/16 in. joiner wire with an 8 /32 hardened bolt threaded into a 3/16 wheel collar. I grind a flat and then loctite on the bolt thread. Tighten it down and your good to go. Have used this method on over 40 large scale Warbirds without a problem
Hope I can keep it under 44 lbs. Just made up the elevator joiner wire. I don't like to use 2 servos for the elevator. Using one with a 3/16 in. joiner wire with an 8 /32 hardened bolt threaded into a 3/16 wheel collar. I grind a flat and then loctite on the bolt thread. Tighten it down and your good to go. Have used this method on over 40 large scale Warbirds without a problem
#25

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From: Orange,
NJ
Are you sure the hole that the wire is in will not enlarge over time and cause the elevator to develop play ? This use to happen on my 40 size planes a while back and what I started doing was the slot that the wire is in I filled with either powder or micro balloon then soak with thin CA the whole area. No more soft area and no more elevator slop.


