P-38 Yellow Aircraft Build Thread Electric w/ Sound System
09-21-2013, 05:42 PM
#26
That sound system sounds real nice and the synchronization with start up and shut down is pretty good. Is that a function of stick position or separate function? I have the option of one or the other I am just wondering which one you are going to use. Do you have individual start up loop for each engine where you hear one engine start then the other? If so I would be interested in how you arrange each engine to run through start up and shut down.
I have the Model Sounds System that I intend to install in the Hanger Nine Mustang 1.50 size I picked up. Only the wings have been joined nothing else has been assembled. I have an Axi 5345/14HD and a Phoenix Edge HV 120
It was a toss up between the Model Sounds and the Benedini system but being in Canada I decided to give the Model Sound System a try as it’s made here.
Though I will be using a 12S power supply I will run a regulator at 24/26 volts on two 4 ohm speakers in series. The claim is 107 decibels with this set up.
I have a couple of other projects on the bench so I expect it should be ready come spring time.
Good luck with yours keep the videos coming
Dennis
I have the Model Sounds System that I intend to install in the Hanger Nine Mustang 1.50 size I picked up. Only the wings have been joined nothing else has been assembled. I have an Axi 5345/14HD and a Phoenix Edge HV 120
It was a toss up between the Model Sounds and the Benedini system but being in Canada I decided to give the Model Sound System a try as it’s made here.
Though I will be using a 12S power supply I will run a regulator at 24/26 volts on two 4 ohm speakers in series. The claim is 107 decibels with this set up.
I have a couple of other projects on the bench so I expect it should be ready come spring time.
Good luck with yours keep the videos coming
Dennis
10-26-2014, 05:52 PM
#29
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I've recently begun to work on an old YA P-38 I have had for 14 yrs. Where did you get the door hinges? Also where can I get counter rotating props? I plan to use G38s.
Thanks
Thanks
10-26-2014, 08:09 PM
#31
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Get the hinges directly from Yellow Tel: (781) 935-9868.
I think hinges are 10-11 bucks a pair A2201 - Offset Hinge (pair)
If you don't already have them, get the cylinder kit as well around $110, well worth it SCALE DOOR INSTALLATION KIT (5XDC104 DOOR CYLINDERS)............P38DC
I think hinges are 10-11 bucks a pair A2201 - Offset Hinge (pair)
If you don't already have them, get the cylinder kit as well around $110, well worth it SCALE DOOR INSTALLATION KIT (5XDC104 DOOR CYLINDERS)............P38DC
02-23-2016, 04:27 PM
#35
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Hey, the plane is looking really great. Hope to build one myself soon but still looking for a kit as Yellow Aircraft has quit selling in the U.S. By the way, if you know or hear of any unstarted or even partial started kits, I'm definitely interested. Thanks
09-29-2017, 10:21 AM
#40
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Hey 70 ragtop, what about your P-38? What gear did you use? I want to go electric on the gear if possible. Always thought your rebuild was incredible by the way and love how you mounted your batteries. Hope to do the same. Brad
09-29-2017, 07:34 PM
#41
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Thanks
I used the stock Yellow gear
Actually getting things together to (re) build another one. Haven't decided if gas or electric. Had planned to go gas, but since my gas Mustang ( Byron Sachs 4.2) has been giving me fits, rethinking that. If I go electric, thinking working gun doors with gun detail, working radiator flaps, ect. Love the way the Yellow P-38 flys
I used the stock Yellow gear
Actually getting things together to (re) build another one. Haven't decided if gas or electric. Had planned to go gas, but since my gas Mustang ( Byron Sachs 4.2) has been giving me fits, rethinking that. If I go electric, thinking working gun doors with gun detail, working radiator flaps, ect. Love the way the Yellow P-38 flys
10-02-2017, 08:18 AM
#42
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Sounds awesome, what do you think of the stock Yellow gear? Are they electric or air? I have grown very fond of the electrics because of function ,dependability and much more scale. Are you going to do another build thread? Is this rebuild another crash victim or badly built to start with? I'm actually about to buy a new Yellow very soon from Jason at Fun Key. Have you heard anything about the Yellow kits recently? Anyway, sorry for all the questions but I want all the input I can get before I pull the trigger on this new kit. I will be retiring soon so hope to finally have time for a project like this. Thanks so much, Brad
10-02-2017, 01:56 PM
#43
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It's another engine out crash victim, I posted a couple pic in the re-build thread on the other site. No thread on this one, I like the Yellow gear, they are air. I am not really a fan of electric gear. I did snap one main strut in a crosswind landing in 2015, and one main gear trunion this year in what I thought was a pretty good landing. Mine P-38 is getting pretty heavy, and the field is not super smooth, there are some bumps that are pretty hard on gear, so have to take that into account. In the air, it doesn't feel heavy at all, great flying planes. You will like it a lot
As far as I know, Robart makes gear for it, as does Sierra, and of coarse the stock gear. They are big gear, with long struts and big tires, which gives it a lot of the presence on the ground. It's really not a big plane. A pair of 160 size motors on 10S will pull it around really nice
As far as I know, Robart makes gear for it, as does Sierra, and of coarse the stock gear. They are big gear, with long struts and big tires, which gives it a lot of the presence on the ground. It's really not a big plane. A pair of 160 size motors on 10S will pull it around really nice
10-03-2017, 08:12 AM
#44
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Can you tell me your suggested setup for type of motors, controller, battery combo, prop dimensions and pitch? I'm sure some of that is in your previous build thread but wanted any updates you might have on that. I knew Burt Baker who was the original designer of that P-38 and the Zero etc. He always said he wasn't a great flyer so he put emphasis on good flight characteristics for his planes. He later sold all of his designs to what became Yellow Aircraft back in the 80s if memory serves. They ,of coarse made many improvements to the original design including unitizing the wing center section,booms, and center pod. I actually have an original Bert Baker P-38 with the gear that is partially built that has been gathering dust for decades in my garage if anyone is interested. It's just too much work for me. Thanks, Brad
10-03-2017, 09:44 AM
#45
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Brad
IMHO, a 160 sized motor, with a KV around 220 on 10S is perfect to spin 3 blade 17.9" Vario props. I first ran Scorpion 5030-220 with the 18x13 3 blade props, it flew really nice ( I should have left it alone) The motors went above rated continuous amps, so I lowered pitch to 12, which really slowed the plane down. Wanted a little better performance, so put 5335-245 Tacon 160s in it with props at 12 pitch. It flew great, great vertical, speed, ect, but motors were hot when it landed, KV too high for the props. Now it has 5535-190 Scorpions in it with props at 18 pitch. Flys great, it's really fast using less power than the 245KV setup, but the motors are a pound heavier for the pair
The first motors were mounted backwards ( the bell aft), and I had them baffled so cowl scoop air was pushed thru the motor the same direction the motor fan is moving air, a really efficient cooling setup. With motors mounted in the traditional way ( bell fwd) can't really do that. Since I couldn't find a 5335 size motor with a 220 KV, I went with the big Scorpions, figuring they would stay cooler. The 5535-190s are really powerful, and the plane hauls, and it is still good on batteries when slowed down for cruising. If I had to do it again, I would go with the Scorpion 5525-210s with props set at 13-14, and see if they could be mounted backwards and baffled for better cooling, the way I have the first motors
I'd be interested in Bert Baker kit. Please shoot me a PM with details
IMHO, a 160 sized motor, with a KV around 220 on 10S is perfect to spin 3 blade 17.9" Vario props. I first ran Scorpion 5030-220 with the 18x13 3 blade props, it flew really nice ( I should have left it alone) The motors went above rated continuous amps, so I lowered pitch to 12, which really slowed the plane down. Wanted a little better performance, so put 5335-245 Tacon 160s in it with props at 12 pitch. It flew great, great vertical, speed, ect, but motors were hot when it landed, KV too high for the props. Now it has 5535-190 Scorpions in it with props at 18 pitch. Flys great, it's really fast using less power than the 245KV setup, but the motors are a pound heavier for the pair
The first motors were mounted backwards ( the bell aft), and I had them baffled so cowl scoop air was pushed thru the motor the same direction the motor fan is moving air, a really efficient cooling setup. With motors mounted in the traditional way ( bell fwd) can't really do that. Since I couldn't find a 5335 size motor with a 220 KV, I went with the big Scorpions, figuring they would stay cooler. The 5535-190s are really powerful, and the plane hauls, and it is still good on batteries when slowed down for cruising. If I had to do it again, I would go with the Scorpion 5525-210s with props set at 13-14, and see if they could be mounted backwards and baffled for better cooling, the way I have the first motors
I'd be interested in Bert Baker kit. Please shoot me a PM with details
