Painting & weathering with laxex paint
#1
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Painting & weathering with laxex paint
I am painting my Don Smith Hellcat with the three tone paint scheme of Alex Viraciu's #19 Hellcat. I am having trouble getting the separation between each color with out over spray. I am using a Badger 175 with the fine tip. Do I need to buy a new airbrush in order to get the proper look? Has anyone used an airbrush that will give me a finer line for this task and also for weathering, if so what make & model?
Thanks P51 Tom
Thanks P51 Tom
#3
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
+1 on the foam tape. If you look at the full scale birds as well there is always over spray to the next color. Remember they were cranking this things out as fast as they could. They were not putting tape on them to get a sharp line. Just straight. Post some pics when you get a chance.
George
George
#5
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
Great idea!
Can you please post a pic of what you use? I think I know what you mean but....
Whit
Can you please post a pic of what you use? I think I know what you mean but....
Whit
ORIGINAL: Ramstein44
I get that window insulation tape from Lowes which does the same thing for about two bucks a role. Each role will do a 50cc bird. I never found the auto tape stuff.[] And a $13 airbrush from Harbor freight. Works every time
I get that window insulation tape from Lowes which does the same thing for about two bucks a role. Each role will do a 50cc bird. I never found the auto tape stuff.[] And a $13 airbrush from Harbor freight. Works every time
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
Ok, sorry for the dumb questions; you guys use the Foam to not totally mask out the edges, to allow a slight fuzzy edge, slightly overspray, to avoid crisp lines, more like full scale; another question, how do you attach the foam to the surface, I know the window foam Ram was showing is self adhesive, but if you put the adhesive side down, don't you get a clean edge that you are trying to avoid?
#8
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
I spray to get the clean line using the tape then I use my airbrush on a finer setting to blend it in. The tape is for serious overspray..[:'(] Here is my D9 under the works. Before and after. In the first picture, you can see the fuse has been completely done but the wing needs the blending and in the second, the wing is done.
#10
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
I have a $15 HF airbrush that will do a perfectly fine line for large warbirds. I usually just tear thin cardboard and hold it in place at the color breaks in camoflauge. Seemsto work fine.
Of course, I want to get a better airbrush with a gravity cup, with lid. This keeps me from spilling paint on my project when hitting odd angles.
Much to be found here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/
Of course, I want to get a better airbrush with a gravity cup, with lid. This keeps me from spilling paint on my project when hitting odd angles.
Much to be found here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/
#11
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
Whit
Thanks for posting the tape pic
#13
RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: dasintex
Ok, sorry for the dumb questions; you guys use the Foam to not totally mask out the edges, to allow a slight fuzzy edge, slightly overspray, to avoid crisp lines, more like full scale; another question, how do you attach the foam to the surface, I know the window foam Ram was showing is self adhesive, but if you put the adhesive side down, don't you get a clean edge that you are trying to avoid?
Ok, sorry for the dumb questions; you guys use the Foam to not totally mask out the edges, to allow a slight fuzzy edge, slightly overspray, to avoid crisp lines, more like full scale; another question, how do you attach the foam to the surface, I know the window foam Ram was showing is self adhesive, but if you put the adhesive side down, don't you get a clean edge that you are trying to avoid?
#14
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: wphilb
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
Whit
Thanks for posting the tape pic
#15
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: Ramstein44
fine sand paper
ORIGINAL: wphilb
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
Whit
Thanks for posting the tape pic
#16
RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: BobH
You should use round foam tape. The car guys use it to put in door jams. It's sold in most auto paint stores. It gives you a soft edge on your paint. Works very well.
You should use round foam tape. The car guys use it to put in door jams. It's sold in most auto paint stores. It gives you a soft edge on your paint. Works very well.
Here ya go: http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Edge-Foam.../dp/B00B8ZIMEC
#17
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: aymodeler
So another dumb question then ... If you are not using the foam tape to creat the fuzzy blend, why not just mask with regular masking tape then com back with the airbrush?
ORIGINAL: Ramstein44
fine sand paper
ORIGINAL: wphilb
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
I found that when I masked and then went back with an airbrush, a hint of the hard line could be seen if you looked hard enough, but it was needed because under the tail surfaces on the USN three color scheme the lines are two close together to do all freehand, even the layer touch up was tricky. Any advice for getting the line blended in??
Whit
Thanks for posting the tape pic
#18
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
From my experiences with the stuff I used, it prevents the paint from creeping into those tight gaps like pnl lines and so on. when I used regular tape, I had difficulties with this. In my third picture, the line running down the fuse sides was taped and you can see on the supercharger where it ran. I guess it makes sense due to being weather striping..
I guess ultimately, your best bet is to get a good airbrush and not to worry about using tape.. I use a iwata for detailing but for larger areas, I have a auto detailing airgun which requires the tape to get a clean line.
I guess ultimately, your best bet is to get a good airbrush and not to worry about using tape.. I use a iwata for detailing but for larger areas, I have a auto detailing airgun which requires the tape to get a clean line.
#19
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
The good news about using the round foam, self adhesive tape is.. you can use your larger touch up gun to do the camo or separation lines. Normally touching with an airbrush after wards isn't necessary.
For sure there are other methods but this one works well.
For sure there are other methods but this one works well.
#20
RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
Try angling your airbrush towards the darker color so that you are mostly overspraying onto it.I have a 2 stage badger that allows you to just barely allow the paint to come out.
#21
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: BobH
The good news about using the round foam, self adhesive tape is.. you can use your larger touch up gun to do the camo or separation lines. Normally touching with an airbrush after wards isn't necessary.
For sure there are other methods but this one works well.
The good news about using the round foam, self adhesive tape is.. you can use your larger touch up gun to do the camo or separation lines. Normally touching with an airbrush after wards isn't necessary.
For sure there are other methods but this one works well.
Casey
#22
RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
Weathering or a diffuse line from one color the the next, that to me is two very different things.
First word repeatet, you can`t do that with an airbrush, weathering. On your model it would be everything from scraping several layers with a scapell to get down to the intended color behind all the others, at the other end to make normal wear & tear as real as it could be on a surface, dirt and so on..
A variety of tecniques is discovered the latest years, and as very often, the simplest may be the best.
It depents what your goal is, which tecnique to use.
I use several of those in things I make, but the common thing is without tools.
First word repeatet, you can`t do that with an airbrush, weathering. On your model it would be everything from scraping several layers with a scapell to get down to the intended color behind all the others, at the other end to make normal wear & tear as real as it could be on a surface, dirt and so on..
A variety of tecniques is discovered the latest years, and as very often, the simplest may be the best.
It depents what your goal is, which tecnique to use.
I use several of those in things I make, but the common thing is without tools.
#23
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
I have been using Hobbypoxy paints over the past 40 years and have just stated using latex paint. I had no problems getting fine lines and weathering with the Hobbypoxy but I 'mhaving problems with the latex. I ordered a top feed airbrush and hope this will stop the splatter and running problems. I'll try to show some of my models to get an opinion on my weathering. Some of my friends say my planes look like they should be in a junkyard.
P51Tom
P51Tom
#24
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RE: Painting & weathering with laxex paint
ORIGINAL: p51tom
I have been using Hobbypoxy paints over the past 40 years and have just stated using latex paint. I had no problems getting fine lines and weathering with the Hobbypoxy but I 'mhaving problems with the latex. I ordered a top feed airbrush and hope this will stop the splatter and running problems. I'll try to show some of my models to get an opinion on my weathering. Some of my friends say my planes look like they should be in a junkyard.
P51Tom
I have been using Hobbypoxy paints over the past 40 years and have just stated using latex paint. I had no problems getting fine lines and weathering with the Hobbypoxy but I 'mhaving problems with the latex. I ordered a top feed airbrush and hope this will stop the splatter and running problems. I'll try to show some of my models to get an opinion on my weathering. Some of my friends say my planes look like they should be in a junkyard.
P51Tom