Shrky

For ailerons you don't need a progamable channel just to get a greater up travel then down (or vice versa) Instead of setting the arm perpendicular to the servo body when the servo is centered, move the arm 2 or 3 teeth in the direction of travel that you want the lesser throw. This will give you more throw one direction than the other and you can just adjust the end points on the one channel to get at least very close to the recommended throws.

Scott

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Well, I ran the DA50 today. All I got to say is sweeeeet. First start had to flip it about 20 times to get fuel into everything. when it started, it just purred. Let it cool down and started it a second time. First flip. This thing was set at the factory recommended start settings. I swear I could have just taxid out in the street and taken off and it would have run just fine. Has a nice deep growl with the Slimline muffler that sounds pretty good.

Only problem is I have found that you need every single screwed or bolted anything lock tited. A lot of overall vibration. had the lock nut on the air valve and a BB Adjuster on the flaps come loose. I have lock tited everything now.

Oh, yeah. Remember that canopy. Well it blew completely off after about 5 minutes. Popped right off, pulled out all 8 screws. RC56ing tonight. Like I said earlier. the canopy install instructions are unsat.

I have given up on tailwheel doors. they will never work correctly. The tailwheel already pulled one loose. I painted the inside of the tailwheel well Zinc Chromate. Going to remove the doors completely I think.

This bird is going to fly next Saturday for sure.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Guys, If you want the Robart retracts Chief Hobbies sells them for $209 and he will have them Monday or Teusday. Also has the tailwheel for $106 and the Mustang is $429 shipped. I have dealt with these guys a lot full and RC scale and they are first class. Don

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Scott, Here is a picture of the setup on my Master Scale Mustang kit. I built one of these 20 years ago and this setup worked great. Don

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Well I'm getting tired of posting here and writing on my review, but a few almost final comments are required.

I have had to trash the Hughes Fuel Juel. Just doesn't work worth a darn. It leaks badly because it works on a loose fitting tube being shoved down the fuel line. I could not come up with a combination of tube and hose that prevented it from leaking - so scratch another product that looks good but doesn't work.

I have also determined that the Robart pressure indicator is a waste of money. It is not near precise enough. Just get a good tire gauge and use that. I have found that my retract system works fine until the pressure gets down to 28-30 pounds, then the gear may not go all the way up. However, it looks like with a starting pressure of 80# I can get about five cycles. So no problem there at all.

The biggie, I haven't commented on - CG. Did my first checks this weekend. The plane is a little nose heavy, but not much. I think I can get her balanced right on this week without adding any weight.

I have solved my programming problem with a minimum of hazzle. I'm going to use a Futaba SR-10 Servo Reverse and run a Y on the elevators.

AirBearMA

My Feedback: (1)

Check with your LHS to see if they have a Servo Programmer that you can reverse a Hitech digital servo with. Many of them will gladly let you use one to do this. It is definitely less expensive than using a matchbox.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

It would be if I had a local hobby shop, but the nearest is 200 miles. The Hitec programmer is about $160.00. the Futaba servo reverse is $40. Not much of a decision to make there.

PS: I found a servo reversing Y that only cost $18.

Rutlec80

My Feedback: (7)

BVM is selling small pressure gauges. Mounted mine about 1 inch below the rear deck behind the pilot. You have to look straight down to see it.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

I have a portable battery-compressor that has a pressure guage built in. All an onboard guage does is add weight and two more potential leak spots. KISS is almost always the best way to go. Don

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Splas, crank up that air pressure! I always put 100# of pressure in my tank to start out. You should get many cycles with that much pressure. Also, if your plane is slightly nose heavy, I would fly it there first then move it back. This means that the plane balances slightly nose down at the recommended CG. My TF Corsair is very squirrlely at the recommended CG. One fellow did a revue of the Corsair in High Flight and had the same problem. He moved the CG about a quarter of an inch forward and really calmed it down. I did the same. You do not want it to nose heavy because it will nose over easily.
Can't wit to hear about your first flight!

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Pittsdriver. you are right and I am removing the gauge. my little 12v tire pump also has a gauge on it.

[Note: I have posted my almost complete review in the "User Product Reviews" forum. it is under my moms sign-in, bhunn3; don't ask. I'll have pictures added hopefully, tonight.]

MustangFan

Splais

I viewed you frustration concerning trying to get your P-51 in the air and all the delays.

At least you don't have the delay encountered in our area .... that is WINTER.[>:]

I'll have to wait until May or June before I can do ANYTHING productive.[X(]

Enjoy flying ... I'm in the building season.

By the Way ... Nice going ... hope you enjoy a P-51 ... I know I will next year.

BHunn3

I thought that was what frozen lakes or skids are for. What are you waiting for. Get going.

MustangFan

My hands and feet get too cold. Plus my radio probable won't work in the cold. ( too Frail ???) [X(]
Not to mention our flying field doesn't have a lake, and I hate shoveling snow.[>:]

But I will be building my P-51 while its cold.[&:]

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

We are dying here from a winter cold snap, it was 80 in San Diego today. Probably be a frigid winter and get down to like 72 or maybe even 70!!! What's it like to only have the option to fly half a year?

kerrydel

My Feedback: (2)

[:'(] It sucks so quit rubbing it in!



Kerry

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

Splais,
I thought that I would offer an opinion on the Hitec programmer. First of all you could use it to get both elevator servos on one channel, reverse one and match the deadbands and atv in the servo on a y, works out as accurate as the mathchbox or the futaba item only easier. The flaps are a no brainer on a simple y and reversed. The tailwheel and rudder would be on a y, set up the rudder and steering servos with different endpoints and subtrim in the servo. You could even get the ailerons on a single y and if you like to programme diferential you can do that in the servo. This would bring you down to 6 channels, seven if you cannot bring yourself to put the ailerons on a single channel. I bought this for a Clarke 1/4 Spitfire I am building that i wanted to use a BTA autopilot on, I had to use the ailerons on one channel fo11r that but I wanted an easy way to programme diferential in the ailerons, the Hitec did it and now I use it all the time. The uses of the programmer in big multi channel birds like this will pay for itself in a couple of planes and save you years of worry. Even better you can help your buddies like I am helping mine setting up the TF P51 for him with hitec digitals. As you already have the servos for it you are almost there. It will save you a fortune on reversers and matchboxes etc. You could always ask around to see if anyone you know has one you could borrow, the heli guys use them a lot around here. I will say this, there is nothing nicer than setting up your new model in your computer radio and having all the subtrims atvs and servo and differential and direction already done and ready to go with perfectly matched ganged servos before you start.
By the way, here is a link to a little programme for working out required servo torque.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/eflight/calcs_servo.htm I have two friends working on this plane and one of them asked Don Lowe ( who I have a ton of respect for)at the field yesterday what servo to use and he says 100 ounce for the Flaps, now I know that is what my buddy wanted to hear so maybe that is why Don said it but I think that is fair overkill. Don,t forget you will activate flaps on a landing setup at a low speed and no more than 40 degrees, they will not be straight down at 100mph so the torque may be a lot less than people expect. Still better too much than too little. I use 5475s on the 80inch WM p-51 and they are plenty. One other thing about the digitals, they will not be stalled when deployed but will hold solidly and center perfectly. Please note that these are my opinions and are offered only as that, to share our experience.
Good Luck
Paul

Lorduss

thanks dragon, i was waiting to hear some good numbers about the flaps, 100oz sounds like a plan.

barnyard

My Feedback: (3)

I have to agree with this on the Servo programmer, it works, saves money and Hitec makes very reliable servos I like the ease of use of the programmer, and it does more than reversing, it allows a failsafe point and it also allows the speed of the servo to be changed as well. I haven't found a need for this yet, but when I do an opening canopy, it will come in handy, Also maybe it could be used on flaps so as to not cause a drastic change in attitude too fast. Again, I haven't used it for this yet, but might in the future.

BHunn3

PS: I am at my moms again. This is Splais, not Bhunn3.

Well, here she is all done (sort of). With any luck she will have her maiden flight on Saturday. a few more pics posted on my review in the User Product Review Forum.

A few final comments. I have run the DA50 three times in the yard. You need the choke. It will not start by hand without it. The engine only has about 15 minutes of actual run time on her. It is turning about 6200 rpm with the 20x12 3-blade prop. I'm still on the factory recommended starting settings.

I have completely re-ironed this plane twice now and it still has extensive wrinkles in her. It seems like they just pop up every few days no matter what. I know some like it; but I am beginning to like monocoat less and less.

I have cycled the landing gear numerous times and it seems to be working fine. All systems are go. so Saturday, here we come.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I had failed to discuss one issue because I was not sure what I wanted to do. That was how to resolve the choke issue. I had already mounted the engine and did not want to demount it. The DA50 needs a choke.

I because of the design and angles, a choke servo was the best option and that was what I ended up doing tonight. Took about an hour to complete. I mounted a Hitec 225MG next to the throttle servo and ran another Nyrod parallel to the throttle Nyrod. Used the same type Sullivan Quick Ball Link on the choke arm I used on the throttle. It works very nice. There is a lot pressure on the servo because of the ball and spring tensioner on the choke arm. At some point I am going to have to demount the engine and remove them.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Steve, good luck with your maiden flight! If your plane flies like mine it will go just fine, no worries. If you have room at your field to make a long approach you won't need flaps but you can use them if you prefer.
About the monokote, Fay Stilly (sp) has written extensively about its use and how to keep it tight and wrinkle free. It is possible but it must be done when its first applied. Eventually you will shrink it to where it won't shrink much more and the wrinkles will be less frequent. For your next project you can fiber glass and paint.. the no wrinkles!!! lol.. good luck BobH.

kram51

My Feedback: (3)

You may want to try following the iron with a damp rag to help the Monokote adhere to the wood better. One trick I've used on ARF's is to put some tape "tabs" on the covering edges/perimeter and use them to pull the material as you shrink/iron it. Then follow immediately with the damp rag. You may get some bunching but if you can lift the corners/seams them you can pull the material all the way out with the tape tabs. This is of course more difficult to do with the plane basically finished but it still may help.

Mark

BHunn3

[:-]

splais

My Feedback: (25)

The basic problem/gripe I have with the monocoat is that it seems to wrinkle and re-bubble from one day to the next. The plane is in a controlled constant environment. I have gone over it 2 or 3 times. It seems like ever time I go to work on it, new bubbles have appeared. I do think that a lot of this has been caused by a terrible job of initial application that probably did not use near enough heat or whatever it takes to do a good stick down. All I know is I have several planes with Ultracoat and have not near this amount of trouble. But lets not start another monocoat-ultracoat fight here. Just suffice it to say - if you get one of these you will probably be doing a lot or ironing.