[email protected]

never mind,, if I would just read, I would know

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Rudder:
Scale hinges being made plus, with the elevator linkage where part of the rudder is located, the LE has to be made thick (1 1/4").
As with the elevators, same procedure for making the rudder hinges using sullivan's yellow rod and laminating it between balsa; in this case a 3/8", 1/4", two 1/8" and another 1/4" thick balsa sheets.

Hinges:
1/8" thick aircraft ply cut for the vertical fin side. An ogee type curve is needed for the rudder to move freely.
Some major cuts are needed on the rudder's LE.
As with the elevators, a V groove is needed for each of three hinges being used.

Dry fit:
The vertical fin was dry fitted to the fuse, then the elevators were connected to their respective linkages and, last, the rudder's LE was added to insure no interference between the rudder and the elevator's linkage: which there were, so the cut outs made in the rudder's LE had to be enlarged until all worked with no problems.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Rudder build:
With the rudder's LE correctly cut, the ribs and TE could be added. Usual procedure, one end rib and, in this case the TE connects to the LE, so they were epoxied and then the remaining ribs were epoxied to the rudder. Epoxy used since I'll be using the floor model band sander to remove excess balsa. The trim tab was also installed.

Pylons:
I forgot about the pylons so I'll have to cut some sheeting from the bottom of the wing to insert hard points.

Finishing:
With internal elevator linkage, the vertical fin can't be added until the stab is installed. Since I always glass/prime/panel lines the elevator before installing on the fuse, the fin will also get the same treatment.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

mcjohnson,
yep. Also got builds for a P-51B and a C-45 that will be done in aluminum.
Next winter projects, and also maybe a smaller version 92" P-47 for smaller fields. I've got the gear and engine and parts so it would be pretty cheap to build, especially since I'll cut the wood for the ribs/formers.

B-Squared

Great work Sam...enjoying your build!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Thanks, B-squared.

========

Rudder (cont)
Sanded the rudder to shape on a band sander.

Pull-pull:
Used two robart 1/2" super ball control horns screwed on each side of some 3/8" thick ply. A couple channels carved along the sides of the rudder and she's ready. The sheeting will cover the channels so just the wires will come out the back. Will route some sullivan's golden rod yellow rod to a servo up front.

John Taylor

My Feedback: (16)

Great Build Sam, Looking forward to seeing more of it. John T.

BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Sam, on something this big what size hardware, linkages & ball links etc do you use. Is 4-40 strong enough or do you use something bigger? I am figuring you would know from your experience with the Comp ARF Corsair.
Mick

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

thanks John.

Mick,
I just use 4/40 rod but I also use JB weld to put a brass tube over the rod to prevent any flexing.
Virtually all connections (both ends) are with dubro heavy duty ball links (dubro #900). Control horns are either 1/8" aircraft ply or robarts super ball link (331-3/4"). Hinges are usually made from G10 (1/16" and 1/8" sandwiched). For servo arms, been using dubro's new dual arms (#3342).

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFPW8&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXET46&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCVZM&P=ML

http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10-phenolic/=rbywjf

BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Sam. That's good info.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Rudder (cont)
Holes drilled in back of fuse for pull/pull wires.
Forgot (gettin' old) to CA the 1/64" thick ply to the TE of the rudder so I sanded one side to the center and CA'ed the ply to one side.
Balsa block used to build up around the bottom of the rudder and then sanded to shape. Two holes drilled in the bottom of the rudder, in line with the ball link screws for serviceability.
All of the rib edges were not aligned with the TE and LE so balsa caps CA'ed to the ribs and sanded to the correct contour.
Some lite 3/32" thick balsa glued to one side of the rudder using carpenter's glue.
The LE of the rudder has a curve in it that needed some heavy duty clamping.

vertical fin:
Two of the hinges, along with balsa blocking epoxied to the TE of the fin.
Other side of fin sheeted.

Wing mounts in fuse:
Some #6X3/4" wood screws used on the mounts for extra security.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Wing saddle fillets:
The 1/32" thick ply was boxed taped to the fuse along the inside wing saddle at three places (need open area to apply epoxy).
Box tape was then applied to the wing where contact is made with the fuse and then bolted to the fuse.
The edge of the wing fillet was then boxed taped to the wing to get a good flush contact.
Epoxy was applied along the inside edge where the wing fillet meets the wing saddle.
Micro balls was mixed with epoxy and applied liberally (only time I'll use that word!) along the contact area between the wing fillet and fuse.
Then, evercoat easy sand was put in the same contact area between the wing fillet and fuse.
The box tape holding the fillet to the wing was then removed and the area sanded.
The wing fillet at the back didn't even come close aligning with the fuse but I just left it as it's easy to correct that, later.
I lucked out and the wing easily came off the fuse saddle.
While I had the easy sand out, I also did the wing and fuse.

Fin/rudder:
The fin's sheeting was sanded and is done.
One side of the rudder's sheeting was sanded and checked with the fin for alignment.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

I did not know that!
An old, but never opened, bottle of thin CA went bad (I guess the amber color indicates such).

Wings (cont)
Cut some 1/64" thick ply to cover the gap over the flaps.

Wing fillet:
Had to mount the wing to properly position the trailing end of the wing fillet.
Easy sand used to fill in the fillet.

Stab/elevator:
1/64" thick ply cut to cover the elevator gap.

Rudder:
Sheeted and sanded the other side of the rudder.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Moki 250 arrived (love hearing that UPS truck!)
Almost to the day (3-31-2009) when I got my last 250. Assuming no number gaps, my first had serial number 250358 and the latest has 2501228 or 870 have been made between those dates.
The round ignition has been replaced with a rectangular one.
Instead of just a 1/2 a sheet of paper with some date, a manual now comes with the engine.
Looks like no worst for wear but the engine box must of been dropped since the wood board is cracked.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

While checking the wing fillet, I thought I'd put her on her feet for the first time!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

With the temps in the 60's now, yesterday, I spent all day moving tools and stuff from the basement to the detached shop and cleaning up both places.

Wings (cont)
Pylons:
Two #6 screws will be used to secure the pylons to hard points in the wing. The back hard point will be a removable hatch so I can route a servo wire to the pylons for tank drops.
I drew the holes I wanted for hard points over rib 8.
For the front hard point, the 1/8" thick aircraft ply was made longer than the hole and a blind nut was epoxied to the center bottom of the ply. Then, epoxy was slopped on the ply and then slid into the hole (same as fixing a hole in drywall) using the bolt to hold the ply and get it into position.
The back hard point was made big enough so wires can be routed to the card board wire tube. The opening was boxed in with 1/4"X1/2" spruce so a 1/8" thick aircraft ply can be screwed to the spruce. The hatch will have the blind nut to secure the back of the pylon.

Belly pan:
Lots of cutting and sanding (always easier to cut off more than try to add it) to get the belly pan to lay flush with the wing.
Since there is a 1/4" thick ply hard point for the wing bolts, the balsa sheeting was cut away to get the bolt heads to lay lower so they don't interfere with the belly pan.
Along with easy sand, 3M's bondo glazing putting (#907) is also used for blemishes.

Fuse:
Started the final sheeting of the bottom tail area. The sheeting was cut so the sheeting edge runs along the center of the doors.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I see fiberglass in the near future, your crushing in high gear, great progress.

Where are you getting your pillions and shackles, and bombs from?

TB

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Thanks Tony,
I'll be making the pylons and not sure on the drop tanks.
=======

Fuse (cont)
Sheeting.
While still able to see the door, the one side was cut through the sheeting.
After this sheeting, only one more piece to glue in.

Engine:
Looks like about a 4" high engine mount will have to be built. A little more room in this cowl versus the F4U.

[email protected]

looks like the MOKI 250 will fit perfect in the cowl, I love the sound of your Corsair with the radial, the P47 is easier to fly than the Corsair, I think you will have a new favorite airplane.

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Sam, are the coils still in the engine. Does the blue box simply replace the top hat type or is it the all new type that has a separate coil box? Mitch

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

MC,
Yep, the P-47 is one of the easiest warbird fighers to fly. Tons of wing, wide wheel base for easy tracking, barn door size flaps for nice landings. Also, less likely to have landing gear problems folding since they go inward versus backwards, even if air pressure is low.
=======
Mitch,
I'm unfamiliar with the term 'coils'. What you see in the pictures is what you get; there's no other part that goes between the ignition and engine.
====

Moki 250:
This is the voltage regulator that I'll be using as it's worked great on the Corsair.

Dbalsa cockpit kit:
While at Toledo, I picked up my kit from Brian at Dbalsa.
He makes great kits and they are in just about all my planes.
His kits are very detailed and each assembly is individually bagged.
In the pictures, we have the floor, front panel, side panels, back bulk head, seat pack, throttle quandrant, tail wheel lock/drop tank release lever, dash assembly, mark 8 gunsight and rudder pedal assemblies, plus instruction manual (paper and digital).
http://www.dbalsa.com/

Gun LED kit:
Also, while at Toledo, I picked up an eight gun LED kit from Andy at electrodynamics.
I'll have to do some mods to the guns since they are already installed (figure that out later).
http://www.electrodynam.com/store/SunVis.html

Fuse (cont)
sheeting:
Finished up the last sheeting along the bottom tail section.

Doors/gear hatch cover:
I put some saran wrap over the area and laid up some CF sheeting over the doors/hatch area and then applied ZAP finishing resin to the cloth. The cloth has a grain so I laid it long wise so it would conform to the fuse's curve.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Engine mount:
The engine mount comprises of one 1/4" thick 5.5"X5.5" aluminum plate laminated to a 1/2" thick ply baltic birch.
1/2, 9 ply baltic birch from rockler wood store was used for the sides and sub-engine mount. The side height is 3 5/8" with a total outside dimension of 6.5"X6.5". The outside box is made large enough so the plate can fit inside the box.
Box:
The ends were drilled with shallow holes for more glue surface area. Hysol was used to secure the sides, then #6X3/4" screws were also screwed into each corner (3 screws per corner).

Engine plate:
A 2 3/4" diameter hole saw was used on the aluminum plate. The ply was drilled with a 2 3/4" forstner bit along with three notches to make room for the three bolts that hold the engine to the plate.
Eight holes were drilled around the perimeter and eight #6 bolts and blind nuts are used to sandwich the plate to the ply. Surprisingly, only three bolts are used to hold the engine to the plate (must be OK since the corsair has had no problems). One bolt hole is at 9 oclock so, obviously, this one was done first. Each of the other holes were then done, one at a time. A pilot hole is first drilled using a small bit and then the needed hole is then drilled.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Engine box:
The box was dry fitted on the 1/2" thick, removable fire wall. The plate/ply will be adjusted inside the box to achieve a 2 degree down and 2 degree right thrust of the engine. The box will be offset to the right and up to compensate for the angle to get the engine shaft in the center of the cowl.
The sub-ply will be hysol'ed and screwed to the box and the plate will be held by the nine bolts. Any fine adjustments can be made later by adding some washers between the plate and ply where the bolts are located. The box will also be hysol'ed and screwed to the fire wall. CF cloth will also be used between parts.

Fuse:
Tail gear door/hatch.
A 2nd coat of zap finishing resin was added to the CF cloth.

Stab/elevator:
1/64" thick ply was CA'ed to the stab to cover the upper/lower gaps to the elevators.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Moki 250:
Just noticed that they improved the linkage on the choke so a servo from the rear will now operate it.

Engine box:
Used a digital protractor to get a 2 degree offset that was put on the engine hub while a straight ruler was put on the cowl. The usual: about an 1/8" lower in upper left and lower right corner with the bottom left corner about a 1/4" drop. The bottom of the cowl is not straight so it had to be propped up to level out the top of the cowl for thrust offset checking.
The aluminum plate was removed so it wouldn't be glue in place and the ply was hysol'ed, along with lots of screws to secure the parts. Before gluing, four screws were used to set the correct angle of the sub mount ply.

Fire wall:
Holes drilled for throttle/choke servo linkages, fuel line and ignition wires.

Tail gear door/hatch:
Had to put another layer of CF cloth on the first layer as it was not rigid enough. My CF cloth only has CF running in one direction, which is why it needed another layer that was cut with the 'grain' running perpendicular to the first layer of cloth. I checked mcmaster's CF cloth and their's looks like a non-grain, complete weave. Mine was free from my brother, and, at 27 bucks a square foot, I'll suffer!

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

Sam,
It was great meeting you yesterday at the Sierra booth.
Thanks for answering my thousands of questions and I look forward to following your build threads.

Good flying,
paul [Buffalo]