SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

+1 on the air

haefeli

I remember being there well, build sure and straight. I think the top flite kits are terrific for covering all issues. when you get to the fin there is a trick to it when skinning the second side. be wary and careful that you skin it and keep symmetrical cause all of a sudden you look at one side then the other and do the awe **** part. otherwise you'll be ok. Another thing about the air is I like to use the "couplers" that thread over the line where it attaches to a fitting EVERYWHERE because air leaks are an issue. I also built all mine in meaning I ran all my air and electric extensions, landing light wires all before skinning and did so keeping in mind all must be serviceable. Also I use "pills" which are available from Robart that slow the air down so your pneumatics don't slam the heck out of themselves or the airframe. I watched a you tube once of a guys yellow aircraft p-38 sitting upside down on his dining room table on towels. when he lowered the gear it slammed so hard his airframe was bouncing off the table..........................sit back and just think how each system works and prepare for issues ahead of time. Remember lots of pressure slowed down otherwise air compresses and then all of a sudden the cylinder snaps into action. All pneumatic machines use "flow controls" just like the knob on your Robart air valve. Leave that wide open and use the small orifice"pills " to slow down the cylinders otherwise you may not fully suck gear back into the wing from low pressure. have fun! Also a pic of my Cessna

haefeli

I found nice aluminum rimmed tail wheels with ribbed pattern. they are $8.69 delivered. identical to the solid square cut Dubro or Robart ( not sure who makes them ) but these are round edged with ribs. it is from "the robot marketplace", look under small wheels and keep scrolling down. solid rubber and I know they will handle 30 pounds. I bet they are from the same manufacturer because rim looks identical.

haefeli

I apologize to all if I keep uploading pictures in the wrong place. I am trying to show this week ends work to the belly of the wing. I have several pictures and a couple will show how I tape an area and then after the aluminum is applied you can see where it needs to be trimmed pretty clearly. then next piece is overlapped. I ran into a 10 foot long section of product that was unusable and a quick e-mail to Ed at Scaleareo and he was back to me in 10 minutes. He is sending replacement 2nd day air and has been nothing but helpful this entire project. I see I cant load my pics showing applying technique. will try later.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Looks really good, I am seriously considering using the aluminum tape to finish my kit build. Keep the pics coming,

here is the acsess hatch and hand hold release I am working on.



TB

haefeli

I have a heck of a time loading pictures and will look for the ones showing before and after so you can see my tape job. its very easy and sharp blades and mineral spirits make them last longer. will look for more pic's. your hatch looks terrific. being only my 3rd kit build since I was a kid I didn't think to have an access hatch like yours. I built everything into a removable hatch behind tail wheel. I just purchased a billet fuel fillet, the one with the 6 screws in a round pattern. its on the slow boat from china. but that, a vent and shipping was 11 bucks. the shipping is like .0031 cents per mile. cant believe 3.99 to ship 12000 miles for anything. I have decided on the Hitec 5645 servo's if I am remembering the number correctly.

haefeli

so I use rough and dirty mark up with a sharpie then starting on the bottom rear I tape my outline, I do both sides at the same time to keep shape the same size. then I apply foil cutting larger than needed. I try to keep grain as the full size would have but sometimes you just cant. stretching is better against the grain and if you are on a compound it matters as how big a piece would be. middle pic. shows the perimeter and the tape edge I follow to cut foil. I like to cut into underlying tape so I don't compromise the cloth. then I pull out and away and I do get a bit of stretch on the foil this way but it lays down pretty nice. I can't explain all the tricks as it has to be first hand info by trial and error. sure some is wasted but if your like me I don't mind a financial loss for learning how to use this. My next build is a Stinson on floats and this will be used for sure.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Quick request,

The red, plastic oil cooler piece from my kit that mounts below the cylinders was inadvertently damaged. I checked Tower for replacement parts and it isn't listed by them nor is it given a part number by the assembly manual. Does anyone have one they are not needing?

Thanks in advance.

haefeli

you must have the arf , parts which unfortunately many do not carry a part number for. I have had tremendous luck at Hobby services with a lady named Mary that has helped me above and beyond so many times. it is worth a try. She actually will go check to see if they have returns like scratch and dent that is totally unsellable and dig thru the box. Good Luck.
Chris

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you!

haefeli

look in kits manual online for abs pieces and it would need trimming and painting. order from hobby services that way maybe.

haefeli

not the arf, the kit.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I'll try that, too. Thanks.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

John, Tower sells that piece along with the replacement cowl...don't know if you can get it separate or not.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I've been working on my P-47 kit for about a week now. The tail surfaces are ready to cover, the fuse top is finished and I'm waiting on the electric retracting tailwheel to come in so I can install it before finishing the bottom. I started on the wing today and have the right wing basic structure together. My new EME-55 with electric start also arrived today.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Charlie,

There's no part listing for the red oil cooler piece I'm looking for.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Hopefully this comes thru:

http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/med...20Cockpit.html

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Maybe I'm misunderstanding? Are you looking for the "red chin piece"? Tower sells the cowl and chin piece together: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXCT8&P=Z

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Here is how I did the "conventional" retracts. I used the rib doublers provided and kept the "knock outs" in place when I glued them to the ribs. I then cut slots and installed hardwood beams for the retracts.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

radfordrc,

I'm looking for the red chin piece, which doesn't appear to have a part listing by itself.

haefeli

if the piece isn't totally destroyed fix it. sand with some 120 and reglass it using either epoxy or fiberglass resin and refinish it . better off than buying new. Fiberglass specialties sold me mine for 20 bucks. check them out. itll take a week to make and then ship. then it needs prime and paint. be creative.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Fiberglass Specialties has just the chin piece, but you would have to paint it to match. http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I have one I'm not using, but you would have to paint it, otherwise im tossing it.

TB

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Can you mail it to me and I'll pay you for the postage? I'm sending my address via PM.

Thanks!

haefeli

Lens Covers

I have the plugs I made from the wingtips and they are sanded smooth with progressively finer paper up to 1500 grit. I attached the plugs to 3/16 dia. dowel rod. I have clear plastic from my hobby shop and I had an idea to take 2 pieces of plywood 1/8" thick about 4 inches square. I hole sawed 3 inch hole thru each piece and screwed together with wood screws. one piece tapped and the other with clearance holes. I then fit between the wood a piece of plastic that's held also with the screws. I mount this in my vice and use my hobby heat gun to warm plastic and slowly push the plug into it to form my wing tip lens covers. its a bit tricky, you have to have a steady hand and if the plastic is not heated enough you get white stretch marks in it. I only tried twice before I said I think I can do this. Does anyone else have a better way. I have seen the vacuum boxes, a lot of engineering and trial and error. im looking for other idea's just in case.