RBean

Capt John,m

The flap joiner is installed in the inner flap. With regard to securing the outer wing panels, the builder installed a 1/4" blind nut in the last rib of the wing and used a 1/4" wing bolt to secure the wing. The bolt is shorted and must use a short screw driver in the wheel well to tighten. It works. The DLE 61 turns the 21-10 3 blade at 6,150 rpm. I didn't tack the 2 blade. I think I'll test fly with the 22-10 two blade. I cost less.


The front hole is the one used.

You can seen the ply was added to hold the nut.

I think the 3 blade looks good.

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the info. That’s an interesting wing join solution. The three blade prop does look good!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I balanced the plane with the gear up and inverted. The fuel tank empty and no drop tank.
The reason to do it this way is because in the worst case scenario if you run out of gas completely the plane will be balanced neutral. When the gear deploys forward the CG will shift nose heavy and add drag. With a little bit of gas left at the end of a flight the plane will be slightly nose heavy but still very responsive when landing.

Just balance the plane neutral and it will be just fine.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks Chris!

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

The picture in the manual very clearly shows the gear retracted and advises that all attachments you intend to fly with be attached. Balance point is stated at 6 inches with the option of 6 and 5/8ths as the rearmost recommended point. Not much room for interpretation on this issue.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Gear up so that the CG swings forward slightly with the gear extended.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Mine balances dead level at the 6" mark with an empty tank and all equipment and batteries installed. Dropping the gear changes the CG dramatically and the model becomes very nose heavy. If that is the spec I guess I wont worry about it. I did not add any weight except for filling the dummy radial and engine case completely with Epoxy.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

The drop tank does not change the CG at all. I am concerned for how close this is to the exhaust. I spent way too much time on that tank. I glassed the entire inside, reinforced the structure and completely primed an painted it. I fear it will get burned up by the exhaust and or hurt the performance of the engine. I can perhaps put some aluminum tape in that area. I use that inside of my turbine jets. I may have to plan to drop the tank early in the flight.

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Now that the build is done, I can add the decals (Callie Graphics) and do the weathering. I will probably start another thread and post all the pictures of the mods I did.

cgcrc

Hi Maj. Woody;

Thanks for posting your pics, looks great, interested to hear about your mods.

Question:
What C/G balancer are you using for your model?

Best regards
Randy

cgcrc

Hi RBean:

Thanks for posting the pics of the outer wing panel joiner method.
The 1/4-20 method will work fine.

I like the access point through the landing gear wheel well. I will look at keeping the fiberglass wheel well in place and use a 1/4-20 socket head bolt.
A 3/8" access hole in the side of the well should be enough to slide the bolt head through.

I'll keep you posted on the results.

Best regards
Randy

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Anyone have a guide for where the maintenance nomenclature goes? I have been searching the net for hours and cant find anything.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I have what you need. Shoot me an email and I will send you the file.

[email protected]

MaJ. Woody

My Feedback: (28)

Thank You Chad!

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Will you still be using the wing spar attachment screws as well as the 1/4-20 socket head bolt?
John

RBean

No, just the 1/4" bolt. The plane has already flown many times in that configuration without problems.

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the reply. Using the 1/4” bolt would allow me to cover the wing spar screw access holes when I fiberglass the wing.
John

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

RBean’s wing joiner method works great. I used hex head bolts and a t-nuts. I also added an o-ring to keep the bolts in place. Thanks for the idea!

John

cgcrc

Hi John and RBean:

Thanks for posting your pics....agreed, nice alternative for the wing joining method.
As previously mentioned the RTC models can now fill in the access holes on the wing sheeting.

Randy

Sonofasailor

Nice job bro!!

CAPT John

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks bro! Hopefully the need for social distancing will pass soon so you can help me maiden the Hellcat.

cgcrc

Hi Fellows

(I’m just finishing my present build and about to move onto the RTC Hellcat assembly)

Thanks to all who have posted suggestions, ideas and pics re the outer wing panel mounting process.

I like the idea of the 1/4-20 socket head bolt and blind nut option through the wheel well. It’s the easiest mod with a small hole in the fiberglass LG tub.

For those who have access to a milling machine, here is another option if you elect to use the existing top and bottom wing mounting method.

An aluminum cap that is machined, pre drilled, tapped and glued in place with JB Weld over the existing rail. It allows for a lot more material the 4-40 bolt will thread through both top and bottom.

Because it can’t be screwed into place against the spar the added tabs with holes provide further gluing surface.

The cap can be held in place with a clamp during the glue curing process.

Best regards
Randy

mikee909

The ARF has been discontinued but the RTC is in stock

spitfire66

Which means the rtc will show discontinued once the warehouse runs out. Several parts are discontinued too. Man I hate how horizonhobby does business. “Sell a few and discontinue” should be their motto, hell maybe it is. Absolutely no loyalty to their customers.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Better buy one or two before they're gone! Top Flite warbirds are great, but like everything else they have limited availability.