FliteMetal

Tom:

Did you click on the P-47 wing line art above and click to enlarge it? Isn't that what you were asking for???

Doc-U-link within ScaleAero.com contains links to over 100,000 documentation resources. That still requires clicking, searching and taking notes on where you have been and where you were headed when you clicked. More or less a cookie crumb pathway to follow back home. ScaleAero's resources are constantly displaced by new and voided sites each month but it is faster and easier than searching through an ever changing resource pool at Googe for hours.

It is simple to resize a drawing to whatever scale aka size you require. The width of the panel line is of little consequence given you are thinking from the center of each line in the first place... : ) If the drawing is brought into your computer and saved in a folder designated for such you can open the file in various editors which came with your computer you may not be aware of...

When you move your cursor over onto the saved three view file name "right click" your mouse and then click on "open with" to select from your resident editing software.

These may be, but not limited to:

Windows Picture And Fax Viewer
Microsoft Office Picture Manager
Adobe Photoshop
Paint
Microsoft Image Composer

Clicking on the software name will open the aircraft line art in that software and enable you to edit...aka enlarge, etc...

As for your P-47 documentation begin here:

Republic Ð*-47 http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p47sam1.html
Republic Ð*-47 Thunderbolt http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p47ajp.html
Republic Ð*-47B/C Thunderbolt http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p472.html
Republic Ð*-47D Thunderbolt (1) http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p471.html
Republic Ð*-47D Thunderbolt (2) http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p47p2.html
Republic Ð*-47D Thunderbolt (3) http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/p47ds.html

That should satisfy everyone's yen for Republic P-47 line art...Enjoy ! ! !

Learning to search for documentation is an art form in itself

Tseres

Thanks I didn't know any of that.
I do appreciate your help.

Old Tom

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Tom,
if you saw my friends 1/4 scale P51 up close you would be hard pressed to tell it is not metal but has in fact been painted silver, he has used shading, rubs etc to get a very realistic finish. In fact it looks far more realistic then flightmetal.

cheers
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

auto acylic laquer in silver but get the super fine pigment, when you paint in varying amounts of black or white to various panels then light rub back will give you the looks of real aluminium at a fraction of the cost.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Tom,
got a stack of books on the jug and more 3 view drawings then a roll of loo paper has sheets.

When you get close to that stage sing out and I will scan some for you.

ciao!
Peter

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Ed do we get any steak knives with your sales pitch? "

But wait, there's more and if you ring right now with your credit card ready our trained operator in Mumbai will be standing by to relieve you of your hard earned readies . . . "

FliteMetal

[/quote]Tom, my friends 1/4 scale P51 up close you would be hard pressed to tell it is not metal but has in fact been painted silver, he has used shading, rubs etc to get a very realistic finish. In fact it looks far more realistic then flightmetal. cheers Peter[/quote]

Peter:
Interesting "reflection" on your observation of Flite-Metal. Where in the Land Of Oz have you seen Flite-Metal?

What is it about Flite-Metal that doesn't look like natural aluminum?

or polished aluminum?

Flite-Metal doesn't have any one appearance. Flite-Metal can be tinted and finished to replicate any natural aircraft appearance quickly.

To replicate a given photo of a 1:1 is very similar to the processes for aging and weathering paint. Lemon, grapefruit, lime, orange and other citric acid laden juices will alter the appearance to even resemble titanium.

Richard McFarland's Jug

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

got my new JR 12X fully intergrated 2.4Ghz Spread Spectrum set and 2 of the new 12 ch Rx with it. In fact it is 5 RX including the 3 sattelites that hang off it. Very nice readio, been busy backing up the configs from my old 9X II to the PC and have set up the SeaFury so far on the 12X. Yes have backed that up already!

So now to slowly replace the 36Mhz RX in my other models as the $$ allow. [:-]

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Ed suggest you start a thread to sell your product elsewhere

This is athread about the TF P47, not about your product

shoo shoo shoo

off you go

good boy

FliteMetal

I've been answering questions about products and providing about 3 meg of three-views to Tom.

I don't sell product within threads in RCU, I do with the owner's blessing answer questions about products when asked explicitly as was the case above. There have been several inquiries within this thread. In fact your observation of someone's application in Austrailia is a good example.

Again, I am curious who's application of Flite-Metal did you observe in Australia? There have been many applications to P-47's as well as jets, B-17's, 1/3 scale Corsair, and an occassional P-51 in Australia. King of Oz...You'll find that most people don't take kindly to being shoo'd. Its not exactly a friendly gesture. Typically everyone around these parts likes to think in terms of sharing the wealth is what this site is all about.

FliteMetal

Tom:

Do you have either of these software resident in your computer?

Windows Picture And Fax Viewer
Microsoft Office Picture Manager

If you have the MS Picture and Fax Viewer it will permit resizing with smoother lines. Be sure to rename the file after you enlarge it so the originals remain intact. If one of the line art three views I posted strikes your fancy you can save it to a CD and take it to Kinko's to have it enlarged.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

you are asked for the last time to stop peddling your wares on this thread, kindly take your wares to your own thread. This is aTF P47 build thread, not a how to apply flitemetel thread

I'm not that fussed what you think to be pefectly honest. If you don't like being "shooed" then I would suggest refrain from visting this thread and hijacking it for your commercial gain under the guise of 'advice'.

RWHorton

Please guys, I didn't mean to stir up a hornet nest. This is all about having fun. I ask ed a couple of questions thats all. I could have called him on the phone, but I assume more people would like to know what I am doing (to share is devine) Sorta of giving back a little for all the great ideas I get from here.

Peter I am not bashing on you but please I don't care for bickering, I don't have a field to fly at because of all the bickering. Ed has been a great help to me and so has this site. I enjoy seeing you stuff and everyone elses planes and the progress you guys make. It great. I haven't seen it all for sure I live in a small world, Billings, Mt. Don't really have anyone close that enjoys building these warbirds. Maybe oneday I can get down to the down under and see how it's done there.

Peter you know from my perspective you guys are flying inverted. (poor excuse for a joke I know)

I just hope we can get back to building and sharing and just plane oh fun. (no pun intended)

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

now for something completely different and if the hijacker has no objections we will get back to the topic at hand, building the TF GS P47.

Some photos of progress. All the Druz fasteners complete for the starboard side, now to finish the port side.

Also a pic of the tool I am using to create the fastner. Speaking of tools some are not the sharpest in the tool box. [:-][8D] that is advanced oz101

RWHorton

Looks great. I wish I had waited on the duz fasteners. Mine don't look near that good.

Ron

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

yeah well early days yet

guy I know uses little screws to do his, he did it on a Z P38, looked so bloody authentic.

another chap here used same technique with a 220" B17

just applied all of them to the port side, now to but the slot in them all, will post a pic of how I do that.

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

good news
went to home depot today and the manager of the paint department told me they will not stop selling the behr silver
they had about 15 bottles of it on the shelf, he told me it was good for 10 years if unopened ..so I bought four of them...lol

he tripled checked and even made a few calls and said it was not going away they sell way to much of it

don't want to get off topic .. but this is silver paint that can be used on a P-47

Ron

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Pete

Looken good[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif] Makes me think I should have spent another winter doing rivets and dussssss[sm=frown.gif]

cheers Bob T

Weather hear is frightfull about a week of below 0 with no wind chill and winds 20 to 40 only place to stay warm is in bed next to a warm boooood.
Heat wave to day up to 23 above mabe a thaw

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

more progress.

Also shown is how I do the slots on the druz fastners. As you can see it is just a #11 blade inserted backwards intothe handle and ground to fit the width of the fastners. I have also ground it down so as to be not so thick. Heat over a candle and apply to the circle.

Voila! One Druz fastner and not asales pitch in sight

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

good one Ron, I would have bought the bloody lot if it was me! Best of luck with the 'silver' painting

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

thanks Bob, mate anything and anywhere we be better then freezing me nutz off in snowman land brrrrrr[&:]

OZYRAY

Good morning guys!Iam just fitting out my giant jug.I use hitec servos.Here`s my question/what servo`s have you all used on the flaps??? i was thinking hs 645mg oor hs 635`s?? Any comments welcome.Oh ,the flying weight i`m not too sure.[>:] fugi 64cc power. Thanks Ray Peters

FliteMetal

Ron, Ron, and Tom:

I assumed the inventory would not bleed off rapidly except to modelers because that was the issue...the product as packaged did not sell at the volume required to be continued and the VOC content was higher as well. Ron, the Modern Masters looks to be capable of attaining the same results as the Behr product. Thanks for the link http://www.modernmastersinc.com/default.aspx .

My information came from Behr who indicated it had been discontinued and at the time they had not distributed it in four to six months. There were only a few retailers of the product, Home Depot being the largest. Modern Masters has a much broader distribution base as I found no fewer than eight or nine retailers within three to four miles of me here in Houston. I'll check into it and find out for myself if it can be worked with to replicate various alloys required to look like the real thing.

As for looking like the real thing...I asked about a statement I read above which seemed contradictory. That being that aluminum did not look like aluminum. After providing examples of the many ways aluminum can be effected to resemble photographic documentation I was accused of peddling. Not pressing a point, simply asking what was ment by the "not looking like the real thing" statement.

Richard McFarland's P-47 (the last image) more or less addresses the same question after his multiple P-47 replications within RCU.

norm

Flitemetal is a nice product and makes a nice finish as we can see....when you can get it!

As far as i can remember it took over 3 month inback in april 2008 to get my material after paying in full on the day I ordered with a promise to get it within the next week!!!! to find out later that the products was not yet available and refund was not an option. After "harrasment follow up" in ended up getting the delivery of my material too late. I ended up painting my model and have over 300$ worth of flitemetal 5 rolls different size material sitting there.

I wonder how long flitemetal can sit there before the glue start decaying?

I guess the flitemetal is also a victim of shortage and has its own problems to deliver the promised material. At least Homedepot will not make you pay if they dont have it! Had i known, I would never have ordered flitemetal or at least pay for it in advance.

In my opinion the best finish is Glasskote, paint is lighter specially in silver (2 coat your done compare to 4-5), used by many Top Gun contestants and a shelf life of over 20 years, most of us will die (not me!!!) before expiry date and it will not alter in the sun.

Normand

Tseres

Hey Pete guess what I did today?
I didnt know if the solder would hold up under the heat so I used silver solder.It holds up nicely in the Monokote Trim Iron.
The way I made this was so if anyone wants to make one for yourselves you can.I used 1/4in. bras rod from hardware store old #11 exacto blade.
Tools were: Drill Press. I used this to file down the diameter to fit inside the trim iron. 0.225 in. diameter.You don't need to know the exact size Just file till it fits in the hole.Used a 12in. Mill File.
Air grinder with cut off wheel to cut the slot in the brass to fit the blade. You can also use a Hack Saw or a Dremel Tool.
Vise to pinch the brass togerher for a close fit to the blade.
Propane Torch, Soldering Flux, Silver Solder.
Belt Sander to shape the execto blade.
I put in the round part first then changed tips and went back in with the slotting tool with the template in place.The template helps with keeping the blade straight and centered.
Hope this helps.Cause I don't like fire around wood.Unless its cold outside.

Old Tom