rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Plan 5 steps ahead of what you are doing and build and think light

Cheers Bob T

Tseres

You can go to the front and start reading. Not only is it informative but its also entertaining. By the time you read it youwill think we are your long lost friends that you just ran across.

athflyby

My Feedback: (9)

As you read through this thread take notes on the different stages of the build that you think is important. For example, Landing gear stage, canopy stage, etc.. I even jogged down page and post if I wanted to look back at a certain section.(saves a lot of time since this post is so long.)This forum takes you through about any problem you may encounter and if not just ask .Good luck on your build and keep us informed. Regards Allen

Tseres

Got the servos in the wing. I'm also trying to learn how to program the new to me JR 9303. Going to try and mix the flaps today. So far the only thing that 's mixed is me. I do have the manual printed out. A little reading should help my problem.
Has anyone tried to move the rudder servo just behind the battery tray, so you don't have to extend the push rod? I don't think it will have any effect on the balance cause it's so close to the balance point. The one oz. of extra wood shouldn't matter for the AUW ether.

RWHorton

Tom I wouldn't think it would hurt. I actually moved all the servos behind the cockpit and so far the cg seams to be ok. It is a little tail heavy right now but I have so much stuff going up front I really need the tail weight.

Ron

Tseres

Bob you will just have to pick the right barfs. This one only took a day and a half to put together. Of course its electric and not much to put together on it.

Tseres

Got the servos in for the control surfaces. Everything is working slick as a whistle.
I did move the rudder servo behind the original servo plate. If I had it to do over again I would redesign the servo tray area. I didn't know any better when I built the fuselage.
Air valve tray next. Decided not to mess around with the mixing in the radio right now.

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Tseres,looking good. How would you redo the servo tray ?

GSK

Interesting how we all do things a little differently.
I have been building for a month now and i am in the process of fitting servos, linkages ,horns before i sheet the lower half of the fusalage.this will allow me to doany mods required before the fuzz is closed in
I have moved the tray back to allow access to the tank and space for a smoke tank in the future.
The tray layout seems fine as it is in the pic.
The horn on the rudder is screwed onto a 1/2 sq 1in long Spuce block inserted into the rudder as i do not like the way they are done in the plans, that small plywood plate is a recipe for disaster.
All switches are internal and accessed from a hatch in the top in front of the canopy, you can see where they will stick through the ply plate.
The space is quite large so all batteries will be up there also
All controls will be up and working soon then onto the rest of the sheeting.
What a great Kit ,very quick and easy to build ,so far anyway
Regards
Graeme

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Tom, did I see a pic of an imac guy trying to hover a plane on that sim? blasphemy!

Tseres

I would move the elevator servos out to the side and use only one servo in the center for pull pull on the rudder and the tailwheel off of the same servo arm. You have to plan for that.
Since this is my first build since 1993 and this is a far cry from a Sig Cub. There were just some things I didn't think of in time. It was supposed to be built to plans and covered with Monocote. We all know how that went.

Tseres

Got you. He was going vertical out of control.
Maybe he was "an IMAC Guy". I'll ask him.[sm=lol.gif]

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Tom,
just a thought. Not real keen on those Dubro connectors, they have a habit of popping open when put under a lot of laod. I'd either be putting some tube up over them or swapping em out.
cheers

Tseres

Thanks Pete
I Like to use ball links where I can. This is a place where a little forward planning would have helped. The rods would have to be bent to use them. I tried and it put the push rod in a bind. Bad angle, the servos are to high or the rods are to low. Take your pick. I have springs to go over the clevis' but I don't put them on till I'm ready to do the final adjustment.

Tseres

Got to thinking about the clevises. I don't like them anymore then Pete. so I figured out a way to use the ball ends..
Also got the air valve bracket made and mounted. and finished stuffing the switch housing. This is also where I'm putting the air valve.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Old Tom

Have you done a leak check on you air valve?? reason I ask is I had 2 that leaked real bad my LHS swaped them out and the new ones still leak but I only luse 20% in 6 hrs, so it is no problem at the field with my curent birds, but if I do another bird with retracts I will use a different valve. I would also recomend checking the brass T's as I had 2 in a pack that would not pass air.

I realy like your switch bay nice and neet[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Cheers Bob T

PS still not sure if our crew is going to Toledo this year

Tseres

I read where you should lubricate the valves and cylinders before you try to use them. The O rings dry out from sitting on a shelf and they need to be lubed to seal. I red this on a thread but can't remember which one. They also mentioned to use some kind of refrigeration lubricant. i'm going to visit a repair shop and ask them what they have. I still need to get a pump before I think of putting air in anything.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

ahh that looks better, good job. Couple of springs on the rudder clevis to be sure, to be sure

Tseres

You said that last year. I'll be there. Hopefully Eugene will feel well enough this year to attend.

Tseres

The Clevis' are on the tail wheel servo and they will be replaced after I pick some more up from the LHS. I ran out.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

When I had the secound leeke valve I tried refrig silicone grease, reg/air lube ol and some dab of grease from am hydl/cylender repair shop all worked to a point but most leakage was from the bad thread match on the needles, in or out and lock nut jammed good and tight
they still leaked

If you pump up the air befor each flight you should not nave a problem and just going for aheads up

Cheers Bob T
PS I think pete OZ had the same broblem and switched to a different valve noted some ware bach in the thread/

Tseres

Thanks Bob for the Heads Up. All I can do for now is hope mine don't leak.
This plane will go through rigorous system testing before its maiden. I know well enough that no mater what I do, it may only have one flight in it. I'll do everything I know to avoid that including a better then me pilot.

RWHorton

Tom is this a robart valve? If so I would recommend getting a UPC valve, sierra sells them as do others. My experience is to test the system with the engine running. Check the psi before and after you run the engine for at least the time of a flight. Nothing worse than a gear up landing, well a maybe an all out crash is worse. I went through this on my first air retracts about 15 years ago, I wanted to pull my hair out till I spent 50 buck on a good valve, never had a issue since.

Also treat the plane as if your life depended on it. I mean treat it as if it were a real plane you are going to fly in. ANd on this kind of plane make a check list and go through it everytime. Once I started doing it my misshaps have been very few.

Anyway she looks good and good luck with the madian this spring.

Ron

Tseres

Great advise.
I'll do the leak down test with the engine running. If it leaks I'll call Sierra.

GSK

The Robart valves are totaly different to those used many years ago,i still have one of that design and it will be never used .
Tom! as long as the O-rings are lubricated and can move freely you will have no problems, i have countless number of landings in modelsusing that valve in the system with no problems at all.
O- rings are a very efficient method of sealing air in valves ,cylinders etc , i have been using Pnuematic systems for over 40 years and they really are trouble free as long as you obey some simple commonsense rules